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Puggsley456

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Posted

The drop in voltage in my cuty is going to be the death of me.

 

This question is for anyone who has aftermarket stereo equipment installed. Where does your voltage sit? Mine at a stop light drops to arround 12.5 volts. And thats with everything in good working order. Its just starting to piss me off. I put a custom built alt in there, 137 amps tp power ~900rms. And even added all new grounds and power wires(4 guage) and put a red top optima batery in. But it still mocks me at every stop light.

 

If I sit at a light and wait for the voltage to drop, Then turn everything off it still stays low.

 

I was just wondering if anyone else has been able to solve similar problems with these cars?

Posted

You can't do much to help that.. that's just what it does. Mine does the same thing with NO audio equipment.

Posted

I think the next logical step would be to get a smaller pulley placed on the alt. That way it turns more rpm at idle.

Posted

Honestly don't worry about it. The problem lies in the ECM. It idles the engine too low. It isn't hurting anything..

Posted

the dash reads wrong :lol:

 

I was worried about it too, then one day I grabbed a voltmeter, popped the hood with the car running @ idle with the guage reading just under 12V, the voltmeter on the batter terminals read ~14V dipping to 12.7V when a ginormous bass beat hit with the stereo cranked (2 - 10" subs @ 250W a piece)

Posted

Mine usually runs 14.2-14.4 with the stereo all the way down and anywhere from 13-14 when is is on. (depending on the bass of the song) That is the readout from my digital cap.

Posted

No I dont have a cap, And I figured with the way I am drawing power right now I thought a cap would do more harm than good. Because i tend to leave the volume of my system fairly loud so the constant voltage draw wouldnt offer a chance for it to recharge. Unless i go to a 2-5 farad cap. Which are alot of$

Posted

I don't have a cap, and you don't really need a cap. unless you've got a lot of power in your system... like 1500 - 2000+ watts, but if you always run your system loud, then a cap. would prolly help, and for that much wattage a .5 or 1 farad cap. will work fine, IIRC.

 

if you run it loud, the drain on the battery isn't constant because the bass beats in each song are different ;)

 

if you're really worried about it, check the battery itself with a voltmeter...

Posted
No I dont have a cap, And I figured with the way I am drawing power right now I thought a cap would do more harm than good. Because i tend to leave the volume of my system fairly loud so the constant voltage draw wouldnt offer a chance for it to recharge. Unless i go to a 2-5 farad cap. Which are alot of$

 

:lol: any system over 500watts can benifit from a cap! are you a moron. the purpous of a compasitor is to act as a buffer helping smooth out the draw of power on your electrical system. if you are you say ~900watts a 1farad compasitor will help you nicely. for a while i ran that 1200watts 900watts continuous on STOCK altinator 4gague wire all the way back to the cap then split into a nother fuse box with 8gauge wire to each 600watt amp. 150amp fuse box the battery and the lights still dimed but its not noticable. voltage stayed around 14.3-13.9volts constant. the system was ok for chep speakers 142dbs at the time. :arrow: if your over 500watts get a Cap befor you fry something

Posted
No I dont have a cap, And I figured with the way I am drawing power right now I thought a cap would do more harm than good. Because i tend to leave the volume of my system fairly loud so the constant voltage draw wouldnt offer a chance for it to recharge. Unless i go to a 2-5 farad cap. Which are alot of$

 

:lol: any system over 500watts can benifit from a cap! are you a moron. the purpous of a compasitor is to act as a buffer helping smooth out the draw of power on your electrical system. if you are you say ~900watts a 1farad compasitor will help you nicely. for a while i ran that 1200watts 900watts continuous on STOCK altinator 4gague wire all the way back to the cap then split into a nother fuse box with 8gauge wire to each 600watt amp. 150amp fuse box the battery and the lights still dimed but its not noticable. voltage stayed around 14.3-13.9volts constant. the system was ok for chep speakers 142dbs at the time. :arrow: if your over 500watts get a Cap befor you fry something

 

car stereo 101 :D

Posted

are you a moron.

 

Are you? :lol:

yes i am thanks for noticing

 

Just messing with you. :lol:

 

I have a 1.0 cap on my 1000watt system and it helps out a great deal. No dimming headlights even on the bassiest songs. Definetly invest in a cap.

Posted

are you a moron.

 

Are you? :lol:

yes i am thanks for noticing

 

Just messing with you. :lol:

 

I have a 1.0 cap on my 1000watt system and it helps out a great deal. No dimming headlights even on the bassiest songs. Definetly invest in a cap.

sounds good :rocking:

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