royal purple or amsoil?

[f_399]

I am using rp with a mobil 1 filter. i have been using it for 12,000 miles

 

there is another shop that sell amsoil for the same price as rp, should i switch or just stay?

 

i know they are the 2 best, but has anyone actually used both and have some proven results?

 

feedback please

 

thanks

[pitzel]

check the UOA's on http://www.bobistheoilguy.com .

 

An individual quite successfully, with no loss in grade or increased wear, used Mobil1 5W30 in his 3400-powered Montana van for 20,000km, which is 12,500 miles. The Amsoil he also tried thickened up, which, left unchecked, would have caused a loss in efficiency.

 

So just goes to show really that theres not a lot of difference between Mobil1 and Amsoil. Whats a quart of Mobil1 10W30 in your area cost? $4?

[sl3196]

Quart of mobile one is $5 and Wal-Mart has a 5 quart bottle for $20.

[HokemBokem]

Quart of mobile one is $5 and Wal-Mart has a 5 quart bottle for $20.

 

Yea same here. I usually just go with the GTX high mileage or Valvoline max life which is $1.50 a quart.

[pitzel]

Damn thats expensive. Esso XD-3 0W30 full synthetic here, $4.30/quart Canadian, which is around US$3.50/quart. Supposedely just as good if not better than Mobil1, which is no small feat considering they're both manufactured by ExxonMobil.

 

If you ever use the website, http://www.ebaymotors.com , there are often banner ads with an offer for a free MaxLife oil change (you buy 5 quarts of oil and send in the UPC's and the rebate form, and they send you a $14 cheque). Even if its not the greatest oil in the world, its still free; can't argue with that for a mere 5000 mile oil change.

[Dannymik]

I spent the $20 for a 5 quart of Mobil 1 10w30 at Walmart. I'll be pouring it in next oil change...I never used Mobil 1 so I'm actually excited to be using such a recommended oil :oops: . I checked out the Mobil 1 filters, but I passed on the $12 and went with a AC Delco for $4.

 

Now when you say 0w that has to do with the temperature range right? 0w must be thinner than 10 I would assume.

[sonyman87]

i wouldnt go 0w thats mainly for fuel economy and non high-performance. stick with your motor specifications expecialy if its not a new motor 0w oil will be a waist and burn up to easily.. atleast thats my opinion

[pitzel]

I spent the $20 for a 5 quart of Mobil 1 10w30 at Walmart. I'll be pouring it in next oil change...I never used Mobil 1 so I'm actually excited to be using such a recommended oil :oops: . I checked out the Mobil 1 filters, but I passed on the $12 and went with a AC Delco for $4.

 

Now when you say 0w that has to do with the temperature range right? 0w must be thinner than 10 I would assume.

 

The '0W' part of '0W30' refers to its SAE viscosity rating with respect to cold starts, while the '30' part refers to its kinematic viscosity while hot at operating temperature. Generally speaking, a 0W30 oil gives you the best of both worlds; the properties of a SAE 30 weight motor oil at engine operating temperatures, as well as fluidity at temperatures of -50C.

 

Many modern 0W30 oils, for example, Esso XD-3 0W30, and made-in-Germany Castrol 0W30 are engineered to actually have significantly better high-temperature properties while retaining their low-temperature properties. Esso XD-3 0W30, for example, has superior high temperature properties to a conventional 10W30 oil, while remaining pour-able down to -50C. They achieve this behaviour through the use of higher-quality fluids. Your fuel economy will not improve with this oil on the highway, all-warmed-up, however, the engine will start much better in the cold and burn substantially less fuel while warming up, thus saving fuel.

 

For anyone in Canada, or in the Northern United States, I whole-heartedely recommend the use of quality synthetic 0W30 oils. For southerners, its unnecessary and a 10W30 grade of Mobil1, Amsoil, or pretty much anything will show equal results.

[Dannymik]

I spent the $20 for a 5 quart of Mobil 1 10w30 at Walmart. I'll be pouring it in next oil change...I never used Mobil 1 so I'm actually excited to be using such a recommended oil :oops: . I checked out the Mobil 1 filters, but I passed on the $12 and went with a AC Delco for $4.

 

Now when you say 0w that has to do with the temperature range right? 0w must be thinner than 10 I would assume.

 

The '0W' part of '0W30' refers to its SAE viscosity rating with respect to cold starts, while the '30' part refers to its kinematic viscosity while hot at operating temperature. Generally speaking, a 0W30 oil gives you the best of both worlds; the properties of a SAE 30 weight motor oil at engine operating temperatures, as well as fluidity at temperatures of -50C.

 

Many modern 0W30 oils, for example, Esso XD-3 0W30, and made-in-Germany Castrol 0W30 are engineered to actually have significantly better high-temperature properties while retaining their low-temperature properties. Esso XD-3 0W30, for example, has superior high temperature properties to a conventional 10W30 oil, while remaining pour-able down to -50C. They achieve this behaviour through the use of higher-quality fluids. Your fuel economy will not improve with this oil on the highway, all-warmed-up, however, the engine will start much better in the cold and burn substantially less fuel while warming up, thus saving fuel.

 

For anyone in Canada, or in the Northern United States, I whole-heartedely recommend the use of quality synthetic 0W30 oils. For southerners, its unnecessary and a 10W30 grade of Mobil1, Amsoil, or pretty much anything will show equal results.

 

basically your recommending me to use 0W30 while my manual states 10W30?

[pitzel]

Your manual states 5W30, does it not? 10W30 is only applicable if you live in a super-warm climate. If you truly live on the Canadian border near Buffalo, NY, 0W30 is just fine year-round and will lead to lower wear and better fuel economy in the winter.

[sl3196]

Your manual states 5W30, does it not?

 

The manual states 10w30 for the 3800.

[Dannymik]

Your manual states 5W30, does it not?

 

The manual states 10w30 for the 3800.

 

yeah what he said :withstupid:

[HokemBokem]

Your manual states 5W30, does it not?

 

The manual states 10w30 for the 3800.

 

 

Yep same here. And it is warm as hell pretty much year round so I will keep the 10w-30.

[sl3196]

Yep same here. And it is warm as hell pretty much year round so I will keep the 10w-30.

 

I run 10w30 all year even when temps get below 0*F.

[manitcor]

a lot of 3800 racers use 5w30, a couple people I know use 0w in the winter with no problems, like was said before it just has to do with cold starts more than anything.

[pitzel]

Hmmm, mom's 1990 3800 in her H-body spec's 5W30. My 1992 3.1 spec's 5W30. Any xW-30 oil will have the same properties at high temperature, so manitcor is absolutely right -- it has everything to do with winter starts.

 

Interestingly, a machinist from a local engine rebuilder shop told me over lunch yesterday that in cold climates, synthetic is absolutely imperative for survival of the 3.1L engines over the long term, as he claims that the piston slap problems on these engines largely originate from cold-weather operation with oil that is far too viscous for the engine.

 

I guess, just a theory of a machinst at an engine rebuilding shop (getting him to work on my 1956 Bel-Air's engine soon), but it does sound reasonable.

[Go4DaMo]

Pitzel's information seems right on point.

To take it a step further, I changed my DOHC 3.4's oil yesterday with 0W-30 synthetic lawn & garden oil, OE-spec from a Toro dealership for snowblowers.  This is a high-zinc oil that would clog post-1996 car's catalytic converters.  But, my 1993's internals will be happier with the zinc additives.  Current price is about $6/qt.

[Go4DaMo]

On 11/3/2004 at 10:46 PM, pitzel said:

 

The '0W' part of '0W30' refers to its SAE viscosity rating with respect to cold starts, while the '30' part refers to its kinematic viscosity while hot at operating temperature. Generally speaking, a 0W30 oil gives you the best of both worlds; the properties of a SAE 30 weight motor oil at engine operating temperatures, as well as fluidity at temperatures of -50C.

 

Many modern 0W30 oils, for example, Esso XD-3 0W30, and made-in-Germany Castrol 0W30 are engineered to actually have significantly better high-temperature properties while retaining their low-temperature properties. Esso XD-3 0W30, for example, has superior high temperature properties to a conventional 10W30 oil, while remaining pour-able down to -50C. They achieve this behaviour through the use of higher-quality fluids. Your fuel economy will not improve with this oil on the highway, all-warmed-up, however, the engine will start much better in the cold and burn substantially less fuel while warming up, thus saving fuel.

 

For anyone in Canada, or in the Northern United States, I whole-heartedely recommend the use of quality synthetic 0W30 oils. For southerners, its unnecessary and a 10W30 grade of Mobil1, Amsoil, or pretty much anything will show equal results.

 

On 11/4/2004 at 11:23 PM, pitzel said:

Hmmm, mom's 1990 3800 in her H-body spec's 5W30. My 1992 3.1 spec's 5W30. Any xW-30 oil will have the same properties at high temperature, so manitcor is absolutely right -- it has everything to do with winter starts.

 

Interestingly, a machinist from a local engine rebuilder shop told me over lunch yesterday that in cold climates, synthetic is absolutely imperative for survival of the 3.1L engines over the long term, as he claims that the piston slap problems on these engines largely originate from cold-weather operation with oil that is far too viscous for the engine.

 

I guess, just a theory of a machinst at an engine rebuilding shop (getting him to work on my 1956 Bel-Air's engine soon), but it does sound reasonable.

Pitzel's information seems right on point here.

To take it a step further, I used 0W-30 synthetic lawn & garden oil, original equipment from a Toro snowblower dealership.   This oil is high zinc, better for the engine internals, though detrimental to OBD2 catalytic converters.  My car's a 1993, though.

I believe this to be the marketing scheme behind "HOT ROD OIL."

Edited October 26, 2023 by Go4DaMo