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Weird Car Problem


mrdarkside2k3

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Yesterday I was gettin off the highway and I was sittin at the light and my car stalled on me. At first I was shocked, that car hasn't stalled in a long time. Well I restart it and all of a sudden she was runnin real rough. The idle was way off and it was stuttering a bit, and it sounded like the muffler has a hole in it. When driving it at city speeds it is very rough and doesn't seem right. When I get up to highway speeds around 50-60mph and at about 2,000rpms it rides a lot smoother. I did an Idle reset on her and I looled at a few hoses to see if something got clogged. I did find that the vent hose from the valve covers to the air intake line was blocked with some snot looking shit. I cleaned it out just before the reset and it still is a lil borked. I know my description isn't the best, but it's the best way I can describe it right now. Please help with some idea's.

 

Thank You

J

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was the stuff in your vent hose milky looking? check your oil and see if it is the same way. If it looks like a milkshake, you've more than likly have a coolant leak, either head gasket or intake.

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yeah it was milky looking. It didn't happen till after I changed my oil and after I added an oil treatment to my car. I hope it's a simple thing to fix.

 

PS

I haven't seen that milky lookin crap on the dipstick at all, just by the vent hose thing.

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I used that real thick stuff from STP. It's like $2.50 for it. It was supposed to help if there were any small leaks and to make the oil work better on the metal parts.

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that stuff is a "thick coating material" and I'd HIGHLY suggest AGAINST using it, it will plug up small oil ports for the cam's timing chain, or even the rods/mains - I'd guess you plugged somethin' up. here's my suggestion..

 

get 12 qts of the CHEAPEST oil you can get - walmart brand or whatever - get one gallon of kerosene, and 4 cheap oil filters, and enough supply's to change your oil normally.

 

change your oil, use the CHEAP oil, and filter, add 1/2 - 1 qt of kerosene, run engine for 3 - 4 minutes, repeat 2 more times (let engine cool for at least 20 minutes in-between changes remember, kerosene will burn if it's too hot)

 

On your final "cheap oil" change do NOT add the kerosene, run engine for a good 5 - 10 minutes, then change the oil one more time with your regular oil. You'll still have your leaks, and you'll need to fix those, but it will clean all the gum/varnish/buildup out of your engine. You'll be amazed how clean your engine will become.

 

--Dave.

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I don't have any leaks that I know of, I jus got that treatemnt cause the car has 221,000 miles on it. I wanted to do something nice for the car.. I am gonna cange the oil in it. I am not sure if I wanna risk the kerosene in the engine.

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The kerosene is pretty much the same stuff inside the GUNK Motor Oil Flush.

 

Two things I want you to look at.

 

If your vehicle has a vacuum hose connected on top of the throttle body, check that out to make sure it is not loose or disconnected.

 

If your coolant reservoir is directly on top of the ignition coil/ignition control module, make sure that the coolant on the coolant reservoir is not full because when the engine is warm, the coolant come out of the coolant reservoir cover and squirts down on the ignition coil/ignition control module.

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I bought the Valvoline Oil Treatment a while ago and good thing I started a thread about it bc I found out that those oil treatments make your oil like soapy and gears slip or something. I took it back the next day.

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me and my fiance were listening to the car earlier and it sounds like there is a leak in the exhaust somewhere. The car is starting to sound like a muscle car with that rough running raspyness to it. Tomorrow I am gonna try to get under the car to look around. That is gonna be hard wince I tore my back up at work 2 weeks ago, but I gotta do what I gotta do.

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