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Synthetic


Carotop

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Alright what is good synthetic stuff for everything like oil, tranny fluid, whatever I can switch to synthetic? Cuz I'm gonna change my oil in a week or two so I'm just wonderin what people have to say. And just a little note no one say no synthetic cuz I will go nuts and kill you all

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ANOTHER OIL THREAD!!!! :o

 

WOOO HOOOO!!! :fruity:

 

no synthetic. Waste of money on a stock motor, IMO. Kill me.

 

:werd:

 

(search function??)

 

 

Synethic is way to expensive for my stock engine also :lol: The non synthetic works good enough

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my engine runs cooler and my mileage is a little better with Mobile 1. plus...its been proven through analysis that Amsoil can go longer than 10000+ miles and still be used. just change filters. so...you can actually save money with synthetic.

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Synthetic ATF like Mobil1 ATF should make the tranny work better on those -40C winter days. I'm just itching to switch to synthetic ATF; my tranny shifts like ASS in the wintertime on those cold mornings when it gets down to -40C, but is absolutely flawless in the summer. Other than the cold-weather properties, I can't think of a reason in the world to use synthetic ATF in these vehicles (unless you like flushing good money down the drain).

 

As for other synthetic fluids, your brake fluid is already synthetic, and plenty of other threads on this forum and others speak of the use of synthetic oil in the crankcase. In another thread, I posted someone, with a 3400 in a Pontiac Montana easily doing well over 12k miles on off-the-shelf Mobil1 with excellent results. But yeah, if you dont intend to extend your motor oil drains beyond the recommendations in the manual, and don't live in a super-cold climate, synthetic motor oil is a complete and utter waste of money.

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my engine runs cooler

 

Measured how?

 

Oh yeah, to the original poster, make sure your seals are all in good working order. When I switched mine, my oil pump drive seal flared up, and my front valve cover started letting out some oil. Nothing that a bit of work with a wrench couldn't easily fix, but be forewarned, especially if your landlord gives you crap for leaving oil drips on the ground.

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my engine runs cooler

 

Measured how?

 

Oh yeah, to the original poster, make sure your seals are all in good working order. When I switched mine, my oil pump drive seal flared up, and my front valve cover started letting out some oil. Nothing that a bit of work with a wrench couldn't easily fix, but be forewarned, especially if your landlord gives you crap for leaving oil drips on the ground.

 

measured by the fact that my needle is always sitting at 160* and my friends with a '96 GTP and a '97 Z34 both run around 180ish*.

 

shitty comparison, but i figured id use it anyway.

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measured by the fact that my needle is always sitting at 160* and my friends with a '96 GTP and a '97 Z34 both run around 180ish*.

 

shitty comparison, but i figured id use it anyway.

 

Sounds like a broken thermostat to me more than anything. Probably something you might want to get checked out, as it will decrease your fuel efficiency.

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measured by the fact that my needle is always sitting at 160* and my friends with a '96 GTP and a '97 Z34 both run around 180ish*.

 

shitty comparison, but i figured id use it anyway.

 

Sounds like a broken thermostat to me more than anything. Probably something you might want to get checked out, as it will decrease your fuel efficiency.

 

decrease fuel efficiency on a 3.4? ha ha ha...that was truly funny. its already shitty pulling in 16 city. im pretty sure the thermo is not broken because on hot ass days (100-105) and sitting at a light, itll climb to below the little 220 tab. driving...never climbs though.

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It could be stuck OPEN though, causing it not to warm up properly. This was the case with my 3100 when I got it. The needle never made it to 1/4 on the guage unless I was in traffic. Now when I put the new 195* stat it goes just about 1/4 after the car had been on for a few minutes, which is normal.

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It could be stuck OPEN though, causing it not to warm up properly. This was the case with my 3100 when I got it. The needle never made it to 1/4 on the guage unless I was in traffic. Now when I put the new 195* stat it goes just about 1/4 after the car had been on for a few minutes, which is normal.

 

ill let you know if its shot when i pull the lower intake this weekend.

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It's pretty easy to tell if the t-stat is stuck open. When the engine is COLD, open a bleeder screw and then start the engine. If coolant comes out then it's stuck open. Also, when you remove the t-stat housing (not sure how it is on a 3.4) if coolant starts gushing out (again, on a cold engine) then it is stuck open..

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Alright I might be doin royal purple for most of my fluids. Also for brake fluid I heard wilwood makes some good stuff that the boiling point is like 260 degrees. So yah there yah go

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