God damn the DOHC Timing Belt

[HokemBokem]

I used the factory timing marks. Front bank timing marks are supposed to be inline pointing away from eachother and the the rear inline point twards eachother. The intermediate shafts mark should be pointing straight down which is where I think i might have made the mistake. It was kinda dark and I couldn't see the mark on the harmonic balancer that well, so I just eyeballed straight down on the intermediate shaft. Thats prolly where its off.

 

Doesnt that suck now. Since you hurried and finished fast now you will have to go back in and do it all again.

[HokemBokem]

:?:

[HokemBokem]

I used the factory timing marks. Front bank timing marks are supposed to be inline pointing away from eachother and the the rear inline point twards eachother. The intermediate shafts mark should be pointing straight down which is where I think i might have made the mistake. It was kinda dark and I couldn't see the mark on the harmonic balancer that well, so I just eyeballed straight down on the intermediate shaft. Thats prolly where its off.

 

Doesnt that suck now. Since you hurried and finished fast now you will have to go back in and do it all again.

[digitaloutsider]

Press the submit button ONCE.

[HokemBokem]

Press the submit button ONCE.

 

Yea I know sorry about this guys. My internet connection is all fucked up so sometimes it cuts oiut and I have to push the button a few times. In about a week I will have wired connection so you wont see me double and triple posting no more :oops:

[digitaloutsider]

it's cool.

[JoroCorona]

I used the factory timing marks. Front bank timing marks are supposed to be inline pointing away from eachother and the the rear inline point twards eachother. The intermediate shafts mark should be pointing straight down which is where I think i might have made the mistake. It was kinda dark and I couldn't see the mark on the harmonic balancer that well, so I just eyeballed straight down on the intermediate shaft. Thats prolly where its off.

 

Doesnt that suck now. Since you hurried and finished fast now you will have to go back in and do it all again.

 

Lets see you line marks that are down in the engne bay with a street light as your only light source.

[HokemBokem]

I used the factory timing marks. Front bank timing marks are supposed to be inline pointing away from eachother and the the rear inline point twards eachother. The intermediate shafts mark should be pointing straight down which is where I think i might have made the mistake. It was kinda dark and I couldn't see the mark on the harmonic balancer that well, so I just eyeballed straight down on the intermediate shaft. Thats prolly where its off.

 

Doesnt that suck now. Since you hurried and finished fast now you will have to go back in and do it all again.

 

Lets see you line marks that are down in the engne bay with a street light as your only light source.

 

You prob wont since I dont have a DOHC

[JoroCorona]

This sucks... the car is still fucked and I'm putting miles on my Chrysler... This is gonna be he second time my concorde needed a bath since Ive had it. It doesn't get driven often as its my show car. And this recent driving has made me aware or a twisted belt in one of my aquatreads...

 

I gotta get my Z back on the road pronto.

[loominaz34]

The reason the timing's still wrong is because the marks on both banks are supposed to be facing eachother, not just the back. trust me. I spent about 8 hours with the haynes manual doing this less than a month ago. Car runs fine now.

Also, make sure you're using the WHITE marks, there were some yelow ones that I thought were the marks and that was wrong.

[JoroCorona]

You sir are wrong, I have the Alldata and shopkey print outs and they both say that the factory timing marks are away from eachother on the front bank and twards eachother on the rear. And if I had the timing THAT wrong, the car wouldn't run... at all.

[loominaz34]

Hmm... mine's running pretty good too with the timing marks both facing eachother. different versions/ years maybe?

[JoroCorona]

Nope, Its the same from 91-95. Did you lock the engine flats up? Cause if you did, that you setup the marks like I said.

[kcac]

Diagrams here if you are not done already. Note: they are for a 1995 3.4 dohc

 

http://polar.icestorm.com/sfl/cutlass/gm_3.4_v6_timing_belt_remove_and_replace.pdf

http://polar.icestorm.com/sfl/cutlass/gm_3.4_v6_camshaft_timing_procedure.pdf

[Manny]

Buzzzzzzzzz!

 

Then the Alldata is incorrect. Spend the extra time and remove your cam covers. If you’re using the factory timing marks and your front bank marks are facing away and your rear bank marks are facing toward each other, then what you have is two three cylinder engines instead of one V6. With that setup, all four cam flats are facing up. That’s not right (just did mine last week). The rear cam flats should be facing up, the front cam flats should be facing down. That makes the timing marks face each other, front and rear. Also, the factory timing mark to line up the intermediate shaft is not on the harmonic balancer, its on the little notch just below the intermediate shaft gear.

[Dan94Z34]

I had a hell of a time retiming my engine when I did my timing belt. My 94 had no mark on the crank pully. We had to eye ball it by looking down the #1 spark plug hole, and slowly turning the engine around until the piston was all the way up. We also had to make sure it was on the compression stroke, by making sure all 4 valves were closed on that cylindar. What A pain in the ass it was. I'll have someone else do I, If I have the car when It hits 160,000 miles. We changed the belt at a 100k, and the thing was about ready to break.

[Camper]

I should probably be paying attention to this. My car has 225K on it and I know for a fact it hasn't had a timing belt in 50K miles. Unless the timing belt fairy came and changed it some time when I was sleeping.

 

So if y'all wouldn't mind figuring out the right way do replace the belt....

[GrandPrix34]

hell i didnt use any cam hold down tools or cam pullers, all i used was basic socket sets, a breaker bar and a 6 pack of beer...well not the beer but it would've helped alot.

 

WHat you have to do is pull the intake, pull BOTH valve covers and look at the cams...the front cams should be up and the rear cams should be down...

 

What i did was put ALL 4 cam flats up, then count the teeth on the cog which are 30...then just rotated the cams 15 teeth either way, slapped the belt on and pullled the tensioner clip while holding one of the cams with the breaker bar to prevent them from slipping...and VIOLA!

[ThunderBat]

not meaning to throw a wrench into all this discussion but what about the business of the 10 degrees retard or the 6degree advance on intake and 7 degree retard on exhaust for improved performance? (I know, someone wants to shoot me now...who is this idiot and what is he doing here!)

[loominaz34]

Advancing the intake lets the intakwe valves open sooner, allowing more air in. Retarding the exhaust keeps combustion pressure in the cylinder for longer, allowing it to push the cylinder back down for longer. both create more power.

[ThunderBat]

so is this advance / retard setting something that requires a degree wheel (I've never degreed in a cam before, its always been just line up the marks)...or is it just a matter of moving the splined cogs or just moving them a tooth?

[JoroCorona]

Well... the fucker skipped... Bastage. So I get to retime the motor again... this time I'll replace the tensioner too. I did the idlers and such, but didn;t think the tensioner was needed... wrong. If you do this spend the extra bucks and replace the idlers and the tensioner. Save yourself some headaches. I'll take another good look at the car tomarrow and see if alldata is infact wrong. That would be VERY strange that it ran okay for the week or two that it was running, if it was off.

[loominaz34]

It does seem weird that the car would start with 3 cylinders timed 180* out of time, weird.

[Vegeta]

Not really...it just puts 2 cylinders at a time on teh same intake stroke, same compression, same exhaust...dual 3 cylinder! The waste spark system means that each cylinder would have gotten spark on the exhaust stroke, and the compression stroke. Thats how it wants to work. Look at the coil packs, 1 and 4, 6 and 3 , 2 and 5.

[DaveFromColorado]

I always kinda wondered what type of power you'd make with it set up as a "dual three cylinder"

 

not worth expirementing tho.

 

--Dave.