3.4 DOHC

[95 Cutlass Drop Top]

I was just wondering what are some things to look for when buying a cutlass with a 3.4 DOHC. What are some pretty common problems?

[cutlassdude96]

timming chain, alt., intake gaskets, are some of the most common things to go wrong.

[patgizz]

take a 8mm socket or nut driver and pull the plastic timing belt cover and check for little black hairs - that would mean the timing belt needs replaced and i hear thats a 600 dollar job to have done at a a shop - bargaining tool tho when buying.

 

if you dont know what the cover for the belt is check out my pic, its the red thing on the left of the cam cover.

 

http://community.webshots.com/photo/59416546/59416627TTOZhn

[eclipse5302]

I'd do the above, and check for oil leaks. Like any 60 degree V6 (3.1, 3.4) the distributor drive o-ring leaks over time. The distrubutor drive is located below the exhaust crossover, and it looks like a small aluminum cylinder. Not hard to fix if you've got a mechanicical backround, but again...a bargining chip.

 

And a good way to check for leaking intake gaskets is to take a can of brake clean with you. Put the little tube on and spray a small amount down near the lower intake manifold, right near where it meets the head. If the engine RPM changes AT ALL you have a bad gasket. You may want to try a few spots to make sure.

 

Lastly, once you find one, go over there and start the car when its COLD. Don't let the guy run it for a while before you show up. Starting the car when cold will almost always alert you if a problem exists...ie, if it starts hard, if it idles high (bad intake gasket), if it shifts werid. All of these things will be more apparent when the car is cold.

 

Jason

[patgizz]

hmmm, my car idles high till it warms up. maybe i need to do an intake gasket

[eclipse5302]

If it idles to like 1500 or so thats ok, but anything like 2k and above is probably a bad gasket or something else. Do the brake clean check!

 

Jason

[CPSMonteZ34]

The same as a high idle, a wavering idle will indicate either a faulty intake gasket, or a bad IAC sensor. If it starts to run smooth after about 10 seconds, then all should be normal. Do a grandpa-style driving test. The transmission should only nudge slightly as expected when set into gear. If it violently yanks the car when set to go, or while it is shifting to second gear as you slowly accelerate, there's either trouble with the vacuum assist (if pre-95), or worse yet, the transmission valve body. The trannies on these cars are fine for any normal driver...but if they have been used performance-wise, they have tell-tale signs of wear-and-tear. Easy check: the transmission dip-stick. If the fluid is brown and smells burnt, someone hasn't been maintaining the tranny - avoid the car if this is the case. The tranny is an expensive replacement or repair.

 

Check the coolant level right away in the reservior bottle while the engine is cold. If it's too low, that's a small sign of maintenance neglect. These cars need a properly maintained coolant system for it to last a long life. Under the car on the passenger side engine bay there will be a black coolant pipe. If it is showing major signs of corrosion, be prepared to replace it. If a hose has been grafted into place, someone beat you to it, and for the better...the problem is quite nearly permanently beat with a rubber hose there.

 

Don't be surprised if you do see a small amount of leaking fluids. It's difficult for any 3.4 DOHC to be leak-free. Just be certain it isn't excessive.