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"Special Coolant Filling Procedure" What the???


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Posted

Okay, so I did my yearly coolant flush today, and while doing it I actually read some of the stickers under the hood out of boredom. One of them states to "Read the owners manual before adding coolant, special coolant filling procedure required or engine damage may result." What the crap does that mean? I don't have an owners manual to consult so I'm a bit lost here. I just added coolant the old fashioned way, you know by means of the radiator cap. And I would assume normally you just plop extra coolant in the overfill resvoir, whats so special about that?

Guest Anonymous
Posted

Never, ever put coolant in the radiator. It goes in through the valve cover.

 

 

Sorry, just being an ass.

 

Just make sure you bleed the air out and you'll be fine.

Posted

No, I'm pretty sure that only applies to 89' Cutlass's with two foot tall wings mounted on the trunk.

Posted

Sorry, I swear that appology wasn't there when I first posted that last comment.

Posted

If you don't bleed out the air you could end up with a nasty air bubble that won't let the car cool. I know it happened on my wifes car when I changed the water pump.

Posted

Yea, it means that when ever you change the coolant, you have to properly bleed the system

Posted

From what I have heard it is only with the 3.1 that have the problem. I know my mechanics hate when I bring my baby in for anything coolant related!!

Posted

how do you bleed the coolant you just unscrew the threade thigny on the coolant line right? :oops:

Posted
From what I have heard it is only with the 3.1 that have the problem. I know my mechanics hate when I bring my baby in for anything coolant related!!

 

I'd be looking for a different shop then. If a do-it-yourselfer can drain, flush, fill and bleed the turbo 3.1 coolant in his own garage, then it can't be that hard of a process.

There's nothing out of the ordinary to bleeding coolant on any 60V6 that I've ever seen.

Posted

Thats kinda what I thought too. I just thought that sticker was funny. Crazy GM engineers.

Posted
From what I have heard it is only with the 3.1 that have the problem. I know my mechanics hate when I bring my baby in for anything coolant related!!

 

Weird. I've done it a couple times on my 2.8, once on a 95 Lumina APV 3.1, and on my 3100 without any problems at all.. :think:

Posted

its sometimes dificult to perform the 'correct' filling procedure.

 

im not sure of anyone else but the highest trained GM mechanics that can do it. i think it envoles standing on 1 foot while keeping your left arm postrate and using your right arm to guide a seeing eye dog using a touch screen telling a robot how to perform the task, very tricky..

Posted

My GP said that too.. kinda freaked me out at first, but the manual told me to do it the same ole way I've done it before.. I guess GM wants you to feel like you're "special" so they threw that on there..?

Posted

I usally remove the thermastat housing, and fill the block. then put the housing assembly back together and top off the system.

 

When you cange your anti freeze, make sure you add an anti corrision to it. Its better to be safe than sorry sometimes.

Posted
When you cange your anti freeze, make sure you add an anti corrision to it. Its better to be safe than sorry sometimes.

 

I made sure to do that. I've been using Bars Leak system conditioner, the stuff seems to work pretty good juding by the fact that my last car with a 3800 went almost 100k miles without eating a water pump. Almost a miracle for that engine.

Posted

my 3800 is leaking coolant. I have had to add coolant about once a week. I think its the water pump or it could be the head gasket.

Posted

If its the water pump you'll notice a grinding noise and the top of the water pump housing will visibly be leaking coolant. Its designed that way so you know when to change it. Its a common problem on older 3800's and usually happens every 50k miles or so.

 

If its a head gasket you'll likely have visible sings of oil contamination in your coolant or vice versa.

Posted
If its the water pump you'll notice a grinding noise and the top of the water pump housing will visibly be leaking coolant. Its designed that way so you know when to change it. Its a common problem on older 3800's and usually happens every 50k miles or so.

 

If its a head gasket you'll likely have visible sings of oil contamination in your coolant or vice versa.

 

Its not getting in the oil, and if i look at the block sometimes after a drive I can see a little drip that is visible. So do you guys think that is the water pump and if so how hard is that to change on a 3.8L

Posted

Where is it leaking from on the block? If its on the accesory drive belt side near the bottom and slightly towards the front, and leaking from an area just above a pulley its the water pump.

 

And to answer your question, its a snap to replace on the 3800, that said I've never worked on a Regal so I don't know how easy it is on that particular car. But on other 3800's it usually takes all of an hour.

Posted

Yea it looks like its the water pump then. I was reading my chilton and it looks pretty easy. JUst take the timing belt off and the alternator and the rest is just a few bolts. How much do water pumps run for? About 30-50 bucks????

Posted

Change the coolant like you normally would on any car. The threaded deal on the goosneck (or in the line going back to the rad. depending on your car, either way, it'll be the highest part of the coolant system)... start the car, then open that up... wait until the coolant starts to come out of there before closing it... it's so it gets the air out of the system... sometimes you can get an air bubble at the thermostat and it'll let the engine overheat because the hot air won't open it up as easily as hot water will. My '87 bonne (SFI 3.8) is the same way if I remember correctly.

 

Mike

 

Edit: Nevermind, on the 'bonne, you have to unhook the return hose from the heater core and start the engine... wait until the coolant starts coming out of that hose, then plug it in real quick... pain in in the ass...

Posted

The special thing means you have to use the two bleed screws to get all the air out. Theres one on the temostat housing and one on the metal pipe at the back of the motor right by the break fluid holder.

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