HokemBokem Posted October 6, 2004 Report Posted October 6, 2004 So I just got back and I have all my parts to change my front rotors and pads. Raymold rotors Raybestos brake pads Brake Fluid and Brake cleaner I also got the T60 socket and Chilton manual. Tommorow morning I am going over to my dads to install this stuff. Also i heard somone talking about how i needed to bleed the brake system? What is this and how do I do it? Quote
no1kicker Posted October 6, 2004 Report Posted October 6, 2004 You don't need to bleed the brakes for rotors and pads. Only if the calipers come off. Just suction some brake fluid out so you don't spill when you compress the calipers for new pads. Quote
HokemBokem Posted October 6, 2004 Author Report Posted October 6, 2004 You don't need to bleed the brakes for rotors and pads. Only if the calipers come off. Just suction some brake fluid out so you don't spill when you compress the calipers for new pads. Yea sorry about that, i was just reading my chilton manual and it said the same thing. Im gald i dont have to do that. It looks so easy to change the rotors and pads. Quote
93CutlassSupreme Posted October 6, 2004 Report Posted October 6, 2004 when you're done with the brakes, be sure to find a lighter, and what's left of the brake cleaner. flame + brake cleaner = big fun Quote
DaveFromColorado Posted October 6, 2004 Report Posted October 6, 2004 ... you should ALWAYS bleed your breaks out after you work on them - the fluid gets contaminated quickly and easily ... and because brake fluid is so hydrophilic it will actually pull moisture out of the air and thru the rubber brake hoses. (that's why the rubber brake hoses dry out and get worthless) --Dave. Quote
DiscoStudd Posted October 6, 2004 Report Posted October 6, 2004 Way to go, man! Now get crackin'!!! Be sure to first clean the new rotors with the brake cleaner, then rough the surface up with some sandpaper or emery cloth (using a circular motion) then spray them clean again. Technically you should bleed the brakes, but it's really not necessary. Just empty your master cylinder reservoir (use a turkey baster or a squeeze bottle) and re-fill when you're done. While you have everything apart, coat the hubs, lug studs, all caliper bolts, and outside face of the rotor (where the wheel sits, not where the pad rubs) with anti-sieze compound. You'll thank yourself the next time you do a brake job! Quote
HokemBokem Posted October 6, 2004 Author Report Posted October 6, 2004 So i should just rough up my new rotors a little bit with fine grit sandpaper? Because i can do that right now Quote
DiscoStudd Posted October 7, 2004 Report Posted October 7, 2004 Yep. Try using 120 or rougher. You want to have a good surface for the pads to "bite" into when you first burnish them. Quote
HokemBokem Posted October 7, 2004 Author Report Posted October 7, 2004 Discostud are you happy i acually got a manual and new rotors This manual is acually the best book i ever bought, many of the questions i have had are in here. And tommorow after installing the new rotors and pads im praying for a non shaky pedal. I had the car one week and the shaky pedal started and if i get it to go away with my own two hands im going to be very pleased Quote
DiscoStudd Posted October 7, 2004 Report Posted October 7, 2004 I'm so happy I could just shit !!! I was just trying to ease your fears a bit by getting you to jump in head first. Now that you bought a Chilton's, that should cut down on the amount of times you post questions on the forum ... Good luck, and again any questions, holler!!! Quote
EurosportZ34 Posted October 7, 2004 Report Posted October 7, 2004 ohhh those look nice, i've heard good things on those raybestos Quote
HokemBokem Posted October 7, 2004 Author Report Posted October 7, 2004 yea this book is very nice. I rubbed sandpaper on the rotors and cleaned them with brake cleaner. Im going to my dads in the morning and ill report on how everything went. Quote
supreme_style21 Posted October 7, 2004 Report Posted October 7, 2004 ohhh those look nice, i've heard good things on those raybestos I sell those at work, Blue box is good.. red boxes are not. Quote
93CutlassSupreme Posted October 7, 2004 Report Posted October 7, 2004 might want to put a wire brush on a drill and clean up the hubs not sure if that does anything though, we all know the story behind my brakes.... Quote
HokemBokem Posted October 7, 2004 Author Report Posted October 7, 2004 might want to put a wire brush on a drill and clean up the hubs not sure if that does anything though, we all know the story behind my brakes.... I dont really know what happened to ur brakes??? Didnt you replace the rotors many times? Quote
slick Posted October 7, 2004 Report Posted October 7, 2004 Actually, we usually keep the old brake fluid. It works better than WD-40 does at breaking a nut/bolt loose... Quote
93CutlassSupreme Posted October 7, 2004 Report Posted October 7, 2004 might want to put a wire brush on a drill and clean up the hubs not sure if that does anything though, we all know the story behind my brakes.... I dont really know what happened to ur brakes??? Didnt you replace the rotors many times? i've replaced my rotors and pads 3 or 4 times now, and installed reman calipers all around. my brake pedal still pulsates. Quote
HokemBokem Posted October 7, 2004 Author Report Posted October 7, 2004 what kind of rotors did you put on and how much did they cost? Quote
93CutlassSupreme Posted October 7, 2004 Report Posted October 7, 2004 what kind of rotors did you put on and how much did they cost? Raybestos PG Plus rotors. i paid $42 a piece at Pep Boys. Quote
R Dubya Posted October 7, 2004 Report Posted October 7, 2004 Might not be a bad idea to get yourself some PB Blaster or some other rust inhibitor. Those caliper bracket bolts (T60) can be kinda hard to break loose. Make sure you have a good angle on the rachet so you don't strip that bolt, and its easier to remove them if you turn the steering wheel all the way to the side you are working on.. better leverage. here's what you need - Quote
93CutlassSupreme Posted October 7, 2004 Report Posted October 7, 2004 they're not that hard to break loose never had a problem with a standard Husky/Craftsman breaker bar Quote
Stealth Posted October 7, 2004 Report Posted October 7, 2004 ya my peda; [u;sates when you brake at high speeds, I just get used to it Quote
HokemBokem Posted October 7, 2004 Author Report Posted October 7, 2004 ya my peda; [u;sates when you brake at high speeds, I just get used to it Quote
Andrew Posted October 7, 2004 Report Posted October 7, 2004 Might not be a bad idea to get yourself some PB Blaster or some other rust inhibitor. Those caliper bracket bolts (T60) can be kinda hard to break loose. On my z34, i had to support the ratchet with a jackstand and use a 5 foot tube on the end as a breaker bar to free up 2 of those t60 bolts! :shock: and yes i used wd40 and some other break free lube the guy at cut rate recommended. Nice selection of parts BTW. do a good install and hope you dont have to do it again for a long while. Quote
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