Guest TurboSedan Posted October 4, 2004 Report Share Posted October 4, 2004 i used to use a PCV system in my 2.2L Turbo Dodge engine, but it would start getting about 1/3 of the air filter soaked in oil. so i completely got rid of the PCV system. i capped the line coming from the intake, and the air box no longer has any PCV line connected to it. the port on the valve cover now has a heater hose connected to it and it drains down into a 20oz plastic water bottle with vent holes punched into the top. the heater hose fits very snug inside the bottle opening, no clamp needed. in other words it's totally ghetto the good side is my air filter is now free of oil. the bad side is that i can smell oil vapor when i have the sunroof or windows open (i need to seal those shifter cable holes...). the 20oz bottle only collected maybe 1oz of oil in 2500 miles, but i really need to look into a good catch can... i'll probably adapt whatever method i use on the 2.2 to my LG5. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slick Posted October 4, 2004 Report Share Posted October 4, 2004 i used to use a PCV system in my 2.2L Turbo Dodge engine, but it would start getting about 1/3 of the air filter soaked in oil. so i completely got rid of the PCV system. i capped the line coming from the intake, and the air box no longer has any PCV line connected to it. the port on the valve cover now has a heater hose connected to it and it drains down into a 20oz plastic water bottle with vent holes punched into the top. the heater hose fits very snug inside the bottle opening, no clamp needed. in other words it's totally ghetto the good side is my air filter is now free of oil. the bad side is that i can smell oil vapor when i have the sunroof or windows open (i need to seal those shifter cable holes...). the 20oz bottle only collected maybe 1oz of oil in 2500 miles, but i really need to look into a good catch can... i'll probably adapt whatever method i use on the 2.2 to my LG5. Any pictures of this set-up? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest TurboSedan Posted October 4, 2004 Report Share Posted October 4, 2004 i can get some. it's pretty much completely hidden from plain sight though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slick Posted October 4, 2004 Report Share Posted October 4, 2004 Yeah, pictures of this set-up would be pretty cool. Would it work on an NA engine? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff M Posted October 4, 2004 Author Report Share Posted October 4, 2004 Everything should be talken with a grain of salt, including this magazine. Why is it than that a 600 HP snow plow truck with 800 ft/lbs of torque is not used as a race engine? I'm sure those mack trucks put out around 1000 HP. Yet I have to see one that goes down the 1/4 mile without a jet engine in it. There is no HP vs Torqe, never was. Those two have to be used together and cannot be separated. The article should have pointed us to the best hp and tq setup for an engine. It is possible to do one mod and increase HP but drop torque and vice versa. I would love to know how to manage the least spread in these two areas. Regards Adam S. Well that "truck engine" is geared to only push snow/low rpms using the torque it has as that is all it needs for the job. Those Mack Trucks only put out 300 hp, it’s the turbo that gets it higher than that, no diesel engine makes much hp, and if you look at their power curve, even with a turbo the max rpm is incredibly low. Now put such an engine behind a 2-speed Torque Flight and it will do pretty good As for the Torque vs Hp, I guess for you they should have said Grunter verses Spinner and if you still don’t get it, torquer biased engine verses hp based engine like comparing the Dodge Viper Engine to a Ferrari Engine, both very fast!! What they gave us that was much more important was enough info so we could make that determination with whatever engine or intended use for that engine we wanted! Jeff M Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff M Posted October 4, 2004 Author Report Share Posted October 4, 2004 Well a 3.4 block and a 2.8 crank should be intresting. (panten pending.. )..with a costome welded stock looking intake manafold...you'll see. YEA YEA, what you said , that is another sweeeet combo to work with, us FWD don't got traction so let the power come on after we leave the hole, and GET THIS, take a look at your tach (everyone!) and notice after each shift the rpms hardly drop much below 4,000 rpms, hummm!!! make the power band from 3,800 rpms up with a short stroke setup, yes !!! And with a turbo, even better Jeff M Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
90TGP Posted October 4, 2004 Report Share Posted October 4, 2004 Malibuolds, just get one of the universal catch cans from ebay. Just type in oil catch can. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurboGTU Posted October 5, 2004 Report Share Posted October 5, 2004 Jeff M: thanks for making me look Any way I can help to make your life harder.. . Thanks for looking. :shock: That's alot of reading! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
god910 Posted October 7, 2004 Report Share Posted October 7, 2004 ...GET THIS, take a look at your tach (everyone!) and notice after each shift the rpms hardly drop much below 4,000 rpms, hummm!!! Jeff M How about 3775 1-2 and 3825 2-3 (Obviously to the closest 25 rpm) (Compliments of TTS DataMaster) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z284pwr Posted October 15, 2004 Report Share Posted October 15, 2004 On Topic about the PCV thingy, here is how I have my setup, Utah inspection won't even pass a breather, so we did a little somthin somethin of our own.....we were going to use Jeff's thing, but when we broke the tube in half, we decided to stop messing around..... http://home.earthlink.net/~z284pwr/grand_prix/October%2014,%202004/P1010007_small.JPG Just took the ends and put a hose between them and on the end of the cone, works gravey.... and looks pretty good compared to a breather I think atleast just one of the MANY mods....if you notice the little gold thing on the passenger side of the plenum by the alternator, yeah, thats where the PVC hose goes, no more under the plenum BS, MUCH nicer and easier to work with, hehe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mfewtrail Posted October 15, 2004 Report Share Posted October 15, 2004 On Topic about the PCV thingy, here is how I have my setup, Utah inspection won't even pass a breather, so we did a little somthin somethin of our own.....we were going to use Jeff's thing, but when we broke the tube in half, we decided to stop messing around..... http://home.earthlink.net/~z284pwr/grand_prix/October%2014,%202004/P1010007_small.JPG Just took the ends and put a hose between them and on the end of the cone, works gravey.... and looks pretty good compared to a breather I think atleast just one of the MANY mods....if you notice the little gold thing on the passenger side of the plenum by the alternator, yeah, thats where the PVC hose goes, no more under the plenum BS, MUCH nicer and easier to work with, hehe Nice, clean motor there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest TurboSedan Posted October 15, 2004 Report Share Posted October 15, 2004 hey that's a NA 3.1 upper coolant pipe right? where does your turbocharger's coolant return go to? is your TB no longer heated? you have a really nice looking engine bay! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z284pwr Posted October 15, 2004 Report Share Posted October 15, 2004 hey that's a NA 3.1 upper coolant pipe right? where does your turbocharger's coolant return go to? is your TB no longer heated? you have a really nice looking engine bay! Wrong, that is a turbo 3.1 coolant pipe, the top portion of the line has been cut off/welded shut, and the bottom if you can't tell has a fitting welded to it, and using that nice line, the coolant return line now goes to one of the lines that used to run in the back of the engine, I forget where exactly what we replaced, no the TB is no longer heated, the car is always in the garage for one, and why would you ever want a heater TB? Oh yeah, we also discovered, when the thermostat opens all the way, it blocks the passage from those TB lines, so it will never circulated from there and never be cooled.... We did a lot of the modifcations to fix the hose mess that is by the oil cooler thingy, the stock one had a bunch of the coolant lines with Ts which you probably know all about, yeah, there is now one line in, one line out of it, MUCH nicer, oh yeah, we also extended the drain plug from the block into a drain valve thing, so we just open it, and drains the water from the front of the engine, and the other side of the drain has a fitting which just happens to go into the back of the block, so draining the water from the back, not a problem either..... the car runs very happy and very cool, its nice Thanks for the good comments, I tried making it as nice as possible, we are probably going to be getting some stuff chromed and make them look nice, the FFP Mounts are nice pieces for sure, definitely worth it, as well as the nice FFP UDP as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jcrow Posted October 18, 2004 Report Share Posted October 18, 2004 Two things- The heated TB is supposed to stop icing? Do you ever drive in very cold weather? I would like to bypass the heat in mine also. second- I have been concerned about the PVC when I convert my N/A 3.1 to turbo. Any ideas? I like the catch can idea, I don't want hot oil going in the intake. Could I use the stock PCV valve or is the turbo one different? Thank you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.