jtfdzn Posted December 29, 2002 Report Share Posted December 29, 2002 Yea, I know this is showing my stupidity, but I need a new one...how hard are they to replace? And where are they at? I feel really dumb, but oh well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted December 29, 2002 Report Share Posted December 29, 2002 It's just in front of the driver's side back tire under the car. They're easy to replace. Make sure you relieve the fuel pressure though, unless you like the taste of gas. With the car running pull the fuel pump fuse and let your car stall. Then crank it over to make sure all the gas is out. Change the filter and put the fuse back in. Done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedZMonte Posted December 30, 2002 Report Share Posted December 30, 2002 its cake. * remove gas cap (releives pressure) * place drain pan under fuel filter * uncliped the one side of fuel filter and drain the excess fuel in pan. * using 2 wrenches unscrew the opposing side of the filter * install the new filter in reverse order. Be sure to start the threaded side by had so you don't x-thread it. its about a 15-20 min taking your time your first time. RedZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jtfdzn Posted December 30, 2002 Author Report Share Posted December 30, 2002 So I don't have to pull the fuse and all that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eclipse5302 Posted December 30, 2002 Report Share Posted December 30, 2002 Yeah, you have to relieve fuel pressure. The best way I feel to do it is to unplug the fuel pump/sender at the tank. You can do it without having to jack up the car. Then run the car until it quits, and restart it a few times to make sure all gas is out. On the other hand, you could just pull the fuel pump relay on the strut tower next to the battery, but you'd also have to unplug the oil sender becasuse that is a backup fuel pump switch...in case the relay fails. Unplugging the fuel pump is the only sure fire way to do it. Also, get a new o-ring for the line that is screwed on. The o-rings get old and are usually deformed by now. Go to the dealer, they are the only ones who will have them. They should be brown...and don't use a regular black o-ring. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted December 30, 2002 Report Share Posted December 30, 2002 I always wondered about the different ways to relieve the pressure. LOL! I think the gas cap answer wins, but is it a safe and correct one? Is the fuse/run-car-out-of-gas technique in a manual? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
STR Posted December 30, 2002 Report Share Posted December 30, 2002 I would NEVER run the injectors dry!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Just uncap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedZMonte Posted December 30, 2002 Report Share Posted December 30, 2002 When i do the gascap i still have a little pressure in the fuel line but its nothing a shop towel won't take care of. It will only squart for a few seconds. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chinski Posted December 30, 2002 Report Share Posted December 30, 2002 I pull the fuse. Also, mine is threaded on both ends, it depends on your year. Newer models have the clip, mine is a '90 so it doesn't. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted December 30, 2002 Report Share Posted December 30, 2002 Is the fuse/run-car-out-of-gas technique in a manual? YES Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prospeeder Posted August 15, 2005 Report Share Posted August 15, 2005 hey, sorry to bring this back, but i need to know, how big of wrenches do i need to change mine? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mfewtrail Posted August 15, 2005 Report Share Posted August 15, 2005 hey, sorry to bring this back, but i need to know, how big of wrenches do i need to change mine? I searched the board and found "5/8 & 13/16 wrenches." That sounds right to me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prospeeder Posted August 15, 2005 Report Share Posted August 15, 2005 ok thanks, my dad has all our wrenches scatterd, so ill have to find those Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbo231 Posted August 15, 2005 Report Share Posted August 15, 2005 its cake. * remove gas cap (releives pressure) RedZ Undoing the gas cap does nothing to relieve fuel line pressure. You may have pressure in the tank, but does nothing to relieve the 43 psi that may be in the fuel line. I have a fuel pressure gauge that also has a drain. I connect it to the shrader valve and drain the pressure that way...easy, clean, and allows me to check FP while I'm at it. They're 20 bucks and worth every penny if you have to diagnose any engine problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
digitaloutsider Posted August 15, 2005 Report Share Posted August 15, 2005 For the average joe wishing to change his fuel filter, a flathead screwdriver and paper towel on the shrader valve will work wonders. As you said ben, opening the tank does nothing. I learned that the hard way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GP1138 Posted August 15, 2005 Report Share Posted August 15, 2005 Even a flathead screwdriver to the schraeder valve may not be such a good idea, shit sprays out fast and hard if you push the valve too hard, I've had it shoot through a washcloth before! :shock: Definitely better than fuel in the face, though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prospeeder Posted August 15, 2005 Report Share Posted August 15, 2005 so is running the injectors dry really bad? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GP1138 Posted August 16, 2005 Report Share Posted August 16, 2005 so is running the injectors dry really bad? If it were, they wouldn't have told us to do exactly what was stated above before doing a fuel filter replacement. It's not harmful, and if it is, one of the top auto schools in the nation needs to re-evaluate it's curriculum. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prospeeder Posted August 16, 2005 Report Share Posted August 16, 2005 alrighty, thanks, i didnt think it was Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbocharged400sbc Posted August 16, 2005 Report Share Posted August 16, 2005 BTW on the fuel filter job... wrench sizes are 5/8 inch line wrench and a 20mm wrench for the factory filters some aftermarkets use a 19mm (3/4inch) hex on their filters... also if your filter has two threaded fittings hopefully at least one breaks loose and turns on the line (damn rust belt.. ) this is why GM started using the quick connect on the one side-so you could take it off easier if the nut froze on the line...anyways when reassemblng the lines to the filter I recomend slidding the ferrel nut back on the line away from the end and applying antiseize or grease to the line and slidding the nut back...making sure too get a coat of it inbetween the nut and line...this will help in the future... This is me but I always throw a glop of grease over the fittings when i am done assembling/tightening the filter and spread it over the thread in connections if a fairly thick layer this will slow down or halt any more rusting (i dont do this to the quick connect side though-it doesnt need it) I have actually done this to a filter with a frozen nut and a year later they needed a fuel pump (not suprizing as the orig filter was damn near completly plugged) well guess what both nuts broke free and started turning on the lines.... It helps to plan ahead fella's.... James Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prospeeder Posted August 16, 2005 Report Share Posted August 16, 2005 ok, now, if ones threaded on, the other wont thread on, and then if u take the same one that wouldnt thread, thread that first, it threads on, then the other one that threaded last time WONT! WHYYYYY!!!!!! god damnit mother fucker, i have to have this thing fixed by 1 cause im getting the brakes done HELP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prospeeder Posted August 16, 2005 Report Share Posted August 16, 2005 ok, i take the new off, and put the old back on, well, it goes on perfect and easy, now i look att he new one (fram) and the Threads are stripped, i spent over 2 hours trying to put this fucker on, im going to walmart right now and returning it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
THe_DeTAiL3R Posted August 16, 2005 Report Share Posted August 16, 2005 I just got done changing my filter... fuck that was fun. The quick connect end came off fine, but the other end was rusted solid. So I had to get some rubber line and cut the fucker off. At least it will be good for next time it needs to be changed. Fuck I hate my car.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john99gtp Posted August 16, 2005 Report Share Posted August 16, 2005 when i changed mine, it was like 13/16 and a 19 (or 20mm) i cant remember. i thought it was weird that it used both metric and standard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sonyman87 Posted August 16, 2005 Report Share Posted August 16, 2005 haha every time i change one i just turn the car off jack the rear end up so i can fit under it and use vice gips and a wrench and open slowly. let the preasure bleed out.. probalby will squirt you in the face a bit but it will die down. then release preasure again.. with a pan or something under it to catch the gas. "empty 1gallon icecream buckets rule for this" once it stopes just finish disconnecting and install the new one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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