Jump to content

Rear brake help!!!!UPDATE!!! Turned Into a DISASTER!


Euro

Recommended Posts

I used to replace rear calipers on a yearly basis till I got ahold of ones with non-metal sliders.

 

As for front brakes. I only replaced them once since I had my 88'.

 

I gotta replace my rear brakes on the 93' for the 1st time so this should be fun. =o

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Alright, im changing my rear pads/rotors and im trying to get the freaking piston back into the caliper. and well its not going back in, even after we're trying to "screw" it back in like the manual says. So can anyone give me some imput? thanks in advance guys.

 

UPDATE:::

 

ok well, we kept trying to get the damn piston screwed in, until we just said forget it and we'll let a professional do it tomorrow. So we put the tire back on with just the old rotor(HINT no pads at all) thinking no big deal since the brake shop is literally a block away. So i started it up and tried to ease it to one side of the garage. Well the brakes wouldnt get any force behind the pedal, it would go to the floor everytime, until my dad said"Hold it you're leaking brake fluid all over the place!" I was like shit!!

 

 

So my whole family helped move the car into the driveway, since my limp brake system barely stopped the car after it being PUSHED into the driveway. So it sits now in our driveway with a whole bunch of stuff to try to catch the leaking fluid, so it doesnt get all over our freshly sealed(fresh as in 2 days ago) driveway. And it will need to be towed in tomorrow.

 

Im trying to find the best emoticons to fit this post, and i think these will do it... :verymad: :cuss: :bash:

 

Yeah, if you want your brakes to work with one caliper not functioning, get a C-clamp and clamp the brake line. It's very crude, but it worked for me. For a while I had like zero money and had to pretty much exist on a shoestring, and I drove like that until my pads needed changing and it became impossible to bleed the brakes. Be prepared for your car to SLIDE if you need to stop on a dime, though. The rear brakes do a lot of the work, front brakes are pretty much placebos...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Be prepared for your car to SLIDE if you need to stop on a dime, though. The rear brakes do a lot of the work, front brakes are pretty much placebos...

 

actually it's the other way around...front do over 70% of the braking. That's why on most any car with disc brakes the front rotors are larger. My cutty's breaks are working fine, but i didn't really have to use much force to get them back in. They weren't totally stuck like matt has with his. Maybe that'll happen...I'm not sure.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Be prepared for your car to SLIDE if you need to stop on a dime, though. The rear brakes do a lot of the work, front brakes are pretty much placebos...

 

actually it's the other way around...front do over 70% of the braking. That's why on most any car with disc brakes the front rotors are larger. My cutty's breaks are working fine, but i didn't really have to use much force to get them back in. They weren't totally stuck like matt has with his. Maybe that'll happen...I'm not sure.

 

Hmm.. I guess I was wrong. Sorry for the misinformation. :?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest JBodyBoy

Hey man, try lifting the backend of the car up on jack stands and let it sit for a day or so. this will let the brakefluid creep to the front. make sure the cap is off and put a rag/towel around the outside for spilage. I have had to do this when the calipers lock up. Just make sure to refill the brake fluid and jack the front end up and let it sit that way for a few hours after your done. you don't want air bubbles in your brake line! pumping the brakes while it's up in the front makes the process go a little faster.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I went out and found a pair of c-clamps that are the same thread-per-inch (pitch) as the calipers in the rear - one is standard thread, the other is reverse thread, makes it a WHOLE lot easier to get those thing in, because not only do you have to turn them, you've gotta apply some pressure to 'em too.

 

--Dave.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I went out and found a pair of c-clamps that are the same thread-per-inch (pitch) as the calipers in the rear - one is standard thread, the other is reverse thread, makes it a WHOLE lot easier to get those thing in, because not only do you have to turn them, you've gotta apply some pressure to 'em too.

 

--Dave.

 

I've found C-clamps work well too.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

yeah i guess its the pleasure of owning a W-body sometimes for the brakes. The fronts would have been a breeze, but i couldnt get the damn rotors off because of an 87k mile torque screw that would not come out, since i didnt have an air wrench had to take it in and get the fronts done.

 

 

 

I drove past my car today at the repair shop, it looked soo sad sitting in the parking lot with brake fluid under neath the right rear tire :cry: Almost looked like it was crying.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

haha i knew i would get to someone with that. no i drove by to see if it got in yet, since we called on such short notice :roll: but its gotta wait till tomorrow for it to get done.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

:lol: i really do.....

 

 

yep got it back today and NO MORE PULSATING PEDAL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!WOOT WOOT

 

almost like driving a different car, although now on my way home, my injector went bad again :roll: :evil: damn this 3.1

Link to comment
Share on other sites

when my dad did the read brakes on my lumina like 6 years ago, he kept try to screw it in and did everything. Then he just ended up pushing or prying something? and it was fine

 

i will ask him and get back to you, but i know the screwing thing didn't work on my lumina either

 

okay and he said he gently pushed them in so you don't break them

 

nick

 

sorry, didn't read ahead to see it was fixed

Link to comment
Share on other sites

for future reference, anyone who has to grapple with their rear calipers...

 

It's much easier to get the piston to screw in if you remove the nut and the lever for the emergency brake from the rear of the caliper. Then you can screw in the piston with a pair of needlenose pliers. Yes, you will lose a little brake fluid. When you put the lever back on - BE SURE to put the near transparent seals back in place. 8)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

for future reference, anyone who has to grapple with their rear calipers...

 

It's much easier to get the piston to screw in if you remove the nut and the lever for the emergency brake from the rear of the caliper. Then you can screw in the piston with a pair of needlenose pliers. Yes, you will lose a little brake fluid. When you put the lever back on - BE SURE to put the near transparent seals back in place. 8)

 

that's what the haynes manual says to do if i remember correctly.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I had to do the brakes on my car, and both calipers popped on me. Pair of Remans, Powerslot rotors and Performance Friction Z rated Carbon Metallics and thus

 

I could stop again.

 

And I lived happly evar after. The end.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 months later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...