Euro Posted September 19, 2004 Report Share Posted September 19, 2004 Alright, im changing my rear pads/rotors and im trying to get the freaking piston back into the caliper. and well its not going back in, even after we're trying to "screw" it back in like the manual says. So can anyone give me some imput? thanks in advance guys. UPDATE::: ok well, we kept trying to get the damn piston screwed in, until we just said forget it and we'll let a professional do it tomorrow. So we put the tire back on with just the old rotor(HINT no pads at all) thinking no big deal since the brake shop is literally a block away. So i started it up and tried to ease it to one side of the garage. Well the brakes wouldnt get any force behind the pedal, it would go to the floor everytime, until my dad said"Hold it you're leaking brake fluid all over the place!" I was like shit!! So my whole family helped move the car into the driveway, since my limp brake system barely stopped the car after it being PUSHED into the driveway. So it sits now in our driveway with a whole bunch of stuff to try to catch the leaking fluid, so it doesnt get all over our freshly sealed(fresh as in 2 days ago) driveway. And it will need to be towed in tomorrow. Im trying to find the best emoticons to fit this post, and i think these will do it... :verymad: :cuss: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slick Posted September 19, 2004 Report Share Posted September 19, 2004 Get a pair of plyers and try screwing it in like that. Also, take the brake fluid resivoir cover off so the pressure can escape. Hopefully this helps out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Euro Posted September 19, 2004 Author Report Share Posted September 19, 2004 yeah we tried the pliers first, before we bought that tool, and yeah the reservoir cap is off already, and still doesnt help. It this keeps up, here we come Merlin's Muffler and Brake shop!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dirty Rockstar Posted September 19, 2004 Report Share Posted September 19, 2004 Thats what I had to do.. I almost broke my special sblock piston thing.. It was bad.. They didnt want to cooperate!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Euro Posted September 19, 2004 Author Report Share Posted September 19, 2004 so what did you end up doing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dirty Rockstar Posted September 19, 2004 Report Share Posted September 19, 2004 Getting pissed and not doing anything but push into the driveway and turn my ratchet.. But takin the res. cover off hjelps.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94CutlassSLCoupe Posted September 19, 2004 Report Share Posted September 19, 2004 I'd say if they aren't screwing right back in without too much trouble, the calipers are probably not working correctly and ill have a tendancy to stick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dirty Rockstar Posted September 19, 2004 Report Share Posted September 19, 2004 I'd say if they aren't screwing right back in without too much trouble, the calipers are probably not working correctly and ill have a tendancy to stick. If theres that problem, dont use the supplied schims.. And if theyre attached, like mine were, remove them.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian P Posted September 19, 2004 Report Share Posted September 19, 2004 Im gonna guess the piston popped out since there were no pads in. What you could do is use a c-clamp on it (not too much force since it won't move without turning), THEN take off the clamp and turn it with the tool. But at this point it's too late. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian P Posted September 19, 2004 Report Share Posted September 19, 2004 actually left and right turn in opposit each other. I think, THINK, right side is clockwise, left is counter.. The other way to tell is when you try the C clamp, if the end has a swivel, the piston usually turns on its own a tiny bit- thats the way you go. Other way to tell is take a chance, if you start to turn the wrong way, the piston will start coming outwards at a rapid rate. Go the other way Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
patgizz Posted September 19, 2004 Report Share Posted September 19, 2004 i use a c clamp with a huge set of channel-locks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Euro Posted September 19, 2004 Author Report Share Posted September 19, 2004 ah wait hold up Davis, we first tried it with a C-clamp, and it didnt budge :? so thats how we got into the whole turning it clockwise. for me, turning it clockwise didnt do anything, but counterclockwise made it come out yeah its going in tomorrow to get everything done. another brake job i tried to do myself down the crapper. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z34_nut Posted September 19, 2004 Report Share Posted September 19, 2004 ooo man... this is rediculus, theres a tool from napa that connects to the end of your rachet...7$ later you have one of the best tools ever made. AND ALWAYS OPEN BLEEDERS ON CALIPERS OR IT WILL NOT PUSH IN! its clockwise for both sides.... i assume it did leak because the piston in the caliper popped out of the cup seal, and i'm afraid once that ahppens, you need a caliper rebuild, or at least tear it out and try and fix the cup seal yourself. chances are you sucked air into the system as well, so obviousy you need to bleed. all i can say is...*sigh*. oo and just for shits and giggles, ASE says when you change the pads, you must replace the calipers, rotors, and pads. yes i said calipers. every brake job. now how many people accually do it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Euro Posted September 20, 2004 Author Report Share Posted September 20, 2004 well i was doing rotors and pads already cause of whatelse pulsing pedal and Z34_Nut, i got that tool you're talking about, and we tried using it. Actually i think we did pop that cup seal out, so arggg well we made it slowly but surely over to the brake shop and it'll go in tomorrow morning. I would much rather have a brake shop do it(which did my front brakes as well cause of an 87k mile caliper bolt that WOULDNT come off )than trusting myself do it. oh well....thanks anways for your input guys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
patgizz Posted September 20, 2004 Report Share Posted September 20, 2004 that caliper piston tool, the little square one with the different pegs on different sides for different cars, is the biggest peice of shit tool ever made. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mihela816 Posted September 20, 2004 Report Share Posted September 20, 2004 Our brakes are the biggest piece of shit brakes ever made. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian P Posted September 20, 2004 Report Share Posted September 20, 2004 Our brakes are the biggest piece of shit brakes ever made. Maybe yours are. Mine arent, neither were my older w-bodies Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian P Posted September 20, 2004 Report Share Posted September 20, 2004 ooo man... this is rediculus, theres a tool from napa that connects to the end of your rachet...7$ later you have one of the best tools ever made. AND ALWAYS OPEN BLEEDERS ON CALIPERS OR IT WILL NOT PUSH IN! its clockwise for both sides.... i assume it did leak because the piston in the caliper popped out of the cup seal, and i'm afraid once that ahppens, you need a caliper rebuild, or at least tear it out and try and fix the cup seal yourself. chances are you sucked air into the system as well, so obviousy you need to bleed. all i can say is...*sigh*. oo and just for shits and giggles, ASE says when you change the pads, you must replace the calipers, rotors, and pads. yes i said calipers. every brake job. now how many people accually do it? Are you 100% sure the 88-93 calipers are all clockwise-in? My friend has the tool from lisle that looks like a brake pad on steroids (compresses the piston and turns at the same time) and I had to use the tool differently on the left side vs the right side. For the left side you turn the outer collar of the tool, for the right side you turn the inner collar (tool has reverse threads on the outer I believe- I'll try to find a pic) The piston popped out on me ONCE on my '90, I was able to get it back in, and I was 17 at the time with no prior experience with these calipers. If you remember where the pieces go and/or have a tech manual it is pretty simple. And that caliper worked fine afterwards. Of course ASE would recommend that, but calipers don't wear down with the linings or rotors, and it has provisions for being "reset" so all they're doing is recommending. Our front calipers usually last the life of the car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smoke1991 Posted September 20, 2004 Report Share Posted September 20, 2004 ok, listen to brian on this one, ive been through hell and back (2 years of ownership) ive went through for the fronts: 1 pair of pads and 1 pair of rotors back: about 5 sets of pads 2 sets of rotors and 2 sets of calipers I finally said f it and did the backs my self went to pepboys and get the ones with the new blue anti seize stuff (like 70 a pop) 2 new rotors, and there 20 dollar pads they work fine till this day, also i re adjusted my e-brake line and it works like a dream, no lockups! For the compression, the way i do it now is with a c clamp and a flathead screwdriver: its a pita but works really good I beleive to compress them the piston is turned TOWARDS the front of the car aka back right tirned clockwise and left is counterclockwise put the c clamp on, make it snug, and then use a flathead screw driver and wedge it between the head of the c clamp and in one of the grooves of the piston, clamp turn, then turn with screw driver, till its all the way in, it worked like a charm but getting the c clamp on it is annoying as can be. Come to think of it, i havent looked at my front brakes in the longest time, i kinda neglacted them being to woried about the backs lol. Well thats what i know, from experience, also do a brake flush(brian also suggested me this) i havent done it yet because for some od reason i have really good braking now, its bearly spungy anymore! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
93CutlassSupreme Posted September 20, 2004 Report Share Posted September 20, 2004 I have never had complaints about the braking ability of my 1992 CS or my 1993 CS Conv. it stops great!!!! must be nice. come to detroit, and i'll let you drive my car. then you'll know why some say w-bodies have shit brakes. new calipers, pads, and rotors, and i still have a pedal pulsation :?: :?: :?: :?: :?: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White93z34 Posted September 20, 2004 Report Share Posted September 20, 2004 that caliper piston tool, the little square one with the different pegs on different sides for different cars, is the biggest peice of shit tool ever made. you got that right, its a help but not much. you pansies! i've done all 4 wheels of my car since i got it, front brakes over this weekend and rear brakes awaile ago, front brakes are about the easiest things to change rears can be a pita sometimes and "setting" the parking brake is inane but hey its prety easy crap, and as far as the rears go, when in doubt, change it out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian P Posted September 20, 2004 Report Share Posted September 20, 2004 I have never had complaints about the braking ability of my 1992 CS or my 1993 CS Conv. it stops great!!!! must be nice. come to detroit, and i'll let you drive my car. then you'll know why some say w-bodies have shit brakes. new calipers, pads, and rotors, and i still have a pedal pulsation :?: :?: :?: :?: :?: If I had your car, I could fix it. My sister has a '93 Cutlass sedan that I guarantee was in worse shape than yours, and it's doing fine after many hrs of labor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
93CutlassSupreme Posted September 20, 2004 Report Share Posted September 20, 2004 I have never had complaints about the braking ability of my 1992 CS or my 1993 CS Conv. it stops great!!!! must be nice. come to detroit, and i'll let you drive my car. then you'll know why some say w-bodies have shit brakes. new calipers, pads, and rotors, and i still have a pedal pulsation :?: :?: :?: :?: :?: If I had your car, I could fix it. My sister has a '93 Cutlass sedan that I guarantee was in worse shape than yours, and it's doing fine after many hrs of labor. want it? buy it. it'll be for sale soon i'll be a happy guy when this car is gone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
93CutlassSupreme Posted September 20, 2004 Report Share Posted September 20, 2004 i got my 1992 CS in Sept. 1999 the dealer i got it from put all new pads, rotors, and one rear caliper.... they must have put shity parts on because i had to change them in late spring 2000 I had seized rear caliper pistons on both rear calipers!!!!!! and no Parking brake!!! front rotors were warped needed new pads again........... and one front caliper had a torn piston boot.... The repair!!!! I did all the repairs myself i installed 4 brand new Bendex brake hoses 2 referbished front calipers 2 referbished rear calipers a set of RSM Slotted Rotors on front and back front and rear Bendex Titanumetalic pads (avaliable from Advance Auto) and a brake fluid flush and new fluid it was an expensive venture but what can you do when thats what you need...... that set-up lasted till last November 2003 and went from milage 120 k to 205 k (approx) i got my money worth i believe....... so i replaced with the same bendex pads as listed above i got some new rotors (OC AutoSports) Slotted im looking for SS brake hoses but so far have had little luck anyway thats my story..... use quality parts!!!! i've thrown my money away on Reman front and rear calipers AC Delco pads all around Raybestos PG Plus rotors all around stops a LITTLE BIT quicker than my Bosch rotors and Ceramic pads did, but my brake pedal still pulsates. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SigEpCutlass Posted September 20, 2004 Report Share Posted September 20, 2004 Im gonna guess the piston popped out since there were no pads in. What you could do is use a c-clamp on it (not too much force since it won't move without turning), THEN take off the clamp and turn it with the tool. But at this point it's too late. brian the last time i changed my brake pads on the rear that's what I had to do and it worked. good luck guys. make sure you lube the pistons too! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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