god910 Posted September 4, 2004 Report Share Posted September 4, 2004 Okay, the auto TGP I bought last February is finally getting some attention. The first thing on the list is to get the starter situation resolved. I'm going to pretend that the p/o didn't try anything. (He used j/y parts N such to test w/, I don't believe in that ) So, here goes. The car has a hot start problem. I should say had, because as of recent it will do it upon 1st startup as well. No click, nothing. So, the p/o wired up a jumper wire for the sol. You used to be able to start it w/ the key no problem, until it got hot. Now, you have to use the wire on first start, then you can use the key until it gets hot. Follow me? So, where should I start? Here's what I'm thinking: 1) Neutral safety switch 2) Ignition switch 3) Harness Now, if the ignition switch were bad, or the NSS would it not allow it to start, do to the nature of the switch? Or would it still ALLOW it, just not request it when it's supposed to? Jud, I saw your post on how you fixed yours, but didn't really understand it. Could you elaborate please? Obviously the first thing to get replaced is the starter. I want to go w/ a 3100 Mini High torque anyhow, so that's where I'll start. Then go from there. A side note that may or maynot help. The p/o's conclusion is that there was a voltage drop in the harness somewhere, and when it got hot, it opened the circuit. He thought that maybe a sol. w/ less drag would be easier on the circuit, but I think it's just engine heat and not current heat defeating the system. Okay, guys, any help would be appreciated. I plan on getting my switches this weekend, and getting this puppy fixed. My laptop will be here next Wednesday, so I would like to get her ready for the track next weekend. I've got a few other situations to fix, but those will be easier w/ the laptop and my ALDL cable. TIA. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SleeperRed90TGp Posted September 4, 2004 Report Share Posted September 4, 2004 Yea, been through the starter BS. If the trans has been replaced the switch may have never been tightened down or aligned. You have to use a mirror to adjust it. With a volt meter on the purple wire at the starter and in park turn key to start. Voltage=solenoid, no voltage=broken purple wire, NSS or IS. For IS switch check big yellow wire on NSS switch for voltage with the same condition as above. Voltage= IS is ok, no voltage=bad IS or broken yellow wire. NSS connectors are behind the plastic splash shield to the rear of the left front fender well. Might be eaiser to take the tire off. If you are racing at the track I wouldn't recomend jumpering the NSS. They require a NSS and it is dangerous with all the starts made while in the stageing lanes. Let us know how you do. Jud Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
god910 Posted September 26, 2004 Author Report Share Posted September 26, 2004 (3 weeks later) Okay, I finally got around to screwing w/ the starter. I crawled under the car tonight and looked to see where the jumper wire was hooked to the starter. (Just to make sure) and all it is, is a wire w/ a spring loaded clip on there, so nothing TOO permanent. However, the wire that is connected to that post is brown, not purple. Did you just forget what color it was, or do I have another p/o caused problem on my hands? So, it started acting like it usually does and not starting ONLY when it gets hot. Here's my findings: Since the jumper is connected to the sol. wire, I just used it as my lead to check for voltage, and when I turned the key to start I got voltage, but only 8-9 volts. Is this just not enough? I figured just being the control wire it would be enough, but it wouldn't start. So, after messing w/ it awhile, I decided to try and make it start w/ the jumper wire. Well, it wouldn't even do that, just spark alot, so, I'm hoping that I just have a bad starter, and when I install the 3100 starter everything will be fine, but I'm not so sure. I went back down to the starter to check and make sure there was a good connection, so I unhooked it, and hooked it back up, that's when it wouldn't even start w the jumper. So, I guess I'll just try a new starter, and see what happens. I'll obviously be checking all the wiring while I'm in there. Fun times, fun times. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted September 26, 2004 Report Share Posted September 26, 2004 It should be a purple wire. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
god910 Posted September 26, 2004 Author Report Share Posted September 26, 2004 Yet another update: I hooked up the VOM to the jumper wire. When hot, and not starting by the key, I get 8-9 volts, when hot, but still starting w/ the key I got 9-10 volts. And when cold (sitting over night) and starting w/ the key I got 9.5 volts. So, last night when I was fucking w/ it, and it wouldn't even start when I jumped it, I think I pissed it off, and when I went back down there to reconnect the jumper wire, the starter was DAMN hot. So, Since I'm only falling about 1-1.5 volts short (which could EASILY come from the increased heat (therefore resistance) ) I think it is the starter, and I hope I'm right. I'm thinking of testing it using a starter I have lying around here, or maybe the starter off Sunshine (She ain't gonna need it anymore ) Then if all works out well, I'll get the mini starter (but still looking for one) I'll have to see what he did w/ the purple wire, because as God is my witness, the wire on the control side is brown. When I get it out I'm gonna check and see, thanks alot. Ideas still welcome. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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