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She's up and running!! Pics Added!


R Dubya

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Well after I yanked this engine and rebuilt it from the bottom up because of the diseased cam, I finally got the courage to start it up today and break in the cam. Everything went really smooth, I am very happy with the way it looks, runs, and especially the way it sounds at idle.. (maximage a.k.a. 1badtgp). I went with the crane 2020 cam with stock bearings, moly rings, mellings 95 hv oil pump, and so on. Had some problems and hangups on the way, but it's well worth it and I can't wait to get this thing on the road so I can begin the break in.

 

Just wanted to say thanks to everyone that gave me advice along the road to getting this beauty back to running condition. This was the first time I've done anything like this to any engine, so I must say I'm proud of this car and we definetely have a long road ahead. Thanks again everyone and I will post some pics and clips asap.

 

http://tinypic.com/3cun5

 

http://tinypic.com/3cuo9

 

http://tinypic.com/3cuow

 

http://tinypic.com/3cupk

 

There she is.. I thought those heads look amazing when I got them back.

What do you guys think?

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From 20 feet the car looks nearly perfect, there are a lot of flaws in the body, lots of little chips and dings, and a nasty ding in the pass. door that will most likely need to be filled. The rear bumper could use some TLC to make it look nice, but I wanted to go for reliability instead of looks to start with. Maybe next yr I can do some paint work.. I'd also like to install a cd changer so I can keep it all stock inside and out. I would like to keep it original.

 

I really have just been taking it easy on it, and it seems to be running really well. The directions for cam break in that came with the cam simply said not to let the idle drop below 1500 rpm during the first 30 mins of run time, and to fluctuate the rpms from 2000-3000 to vary the oil spray patterns on the cam to make sure it is properly lubed during break in. I used 5w30 oil to start with and LOTS of assembly lube on the cam and distributor gear. So far everything has turned out alright, oil looks clean, smells good, and I have good oil pressure.

 

I haven't taken it past 4k rpm yet, and I don't think I will for another month or so, some say just get on it, I don't think I'm gonna do that just yet though. :wink:

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Well, I know the cam is a touchy subject as far as break in goes. But as far as the motor goes, It's all about ring seating. There are different "suggested" ways of breaking in an engine and they may differ on whom you talk to and what kind of rings you are using. There is a writeup out there that suggests accelerating to a certain speed, then letting it decel to a certain speed, and so on, varying speeds each time, yada yada. It's on the net somewhere, maybe someone else remembers what I'm talking about. And before you FREAK out on me, YES, I remember it was for a motorcycle. Same thing, difference noted. :lol:

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yeah most of the people i know that have built motors break em in within the first 20miles...throw it on the dyno right after its built and make 500+whp out of a 2.0liter :)

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when I worked at JHMS, we'd "dyno break-in" engines for a good 50 - 100 miles, under load, and no load conditions. it always went pretty well, then we'd send 'em out the door and tell 'em to come back in 500 miles to see what kinda power they are making.

 

that's a DAMN beautiful setup there.

 

I was gonna say, if I were you, I'd find one of those photography sites for submitting pictures for prizes, because this one http://tinypic.com/3cuow is just way too awesome not to.

 

--DaveFromColorado.

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A friend of mine's father used to be a mechanic, now works as a machinist at Universal Instruments here in Binghamton, and was telling me a story about seating moly rings in airplane engines..

 

Apparently there was some sort of additive in the oil that they used to basically take the engine VERY close to the point of overheating, and as it reached a certain temperature that additive would kick in a drop the engine temp significantly and would seat the rings, just like that.

 

I have been varying the speeds a lot and running it easy, I've put maybe 50 miles on it so far, but I will put on some more this week.

 

How long should I expect these moly rings to seat? I know they are much harder than the typical piston ring, so is 500 miles reasonable or will it be longer than that?

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well im not sure how long would be good but you should check the compression after awhile and see if they are seated yet...if you drive nice it does take longer to seat the rings than if you do the hard driving seat...since your doin a combination id check the compression at around 500 or so

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whenever we'd put the top alcohol dragster engine together for John Haley, we wouldn't oil down the cylinders or the rings, we'd put 'em in dry, then the second we'd fire the engine up, the rings were seated ...

 

typically that's the best way to do it to seat the rings.

 

--DaveFromColorado.

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All in all I lost track of the hours I put in, but I know it's more than 40. I removed the heads in late June, but didn't pull the motor until after the 20th of July because of friends in town, then my sister got married two weeks ago so that was another week out of town.. I'd say three weeks or so. Lots of time putting it back together.

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