need help with the rear brakes on my 93 cutlass

[Smoke1991]

well i just got sick and tired of my poor pad life and went out and bought 2 calipers from pepboys which have the blue antiseize sliders, (brian P suggested me to get these). I also got a new rotors

 

The last pair of rotors were crap installed by a local place and i know they were allready messing up (seizing)

The pads on the left rear were messed up, the outer pad was almost completly worn out, while the inner pad was fine.

 

then the right rear pads seemed fine but it smelt like burning brakes so i said f it and changed that caliper to.

 

well here is my problem now, i cant seem to trouble shoot this at all and im stumped

 

after adjusting my ebrake, i punp it, it locks my back left caliper, but the back right is still lose, i release it, the back left caliper works good, pads nice and snug against the rotor like it should be. But on the other hand the back right caliper is like if it wasint hooked up to the ebrake

it seems it dident adjust it self or somthing, its almost 3:30 in the morning and im trying to figure out if whats causing my problem!

 

Also i bled all four tires (in correct order) and my bedal feels like im shoving my foot into a jiant peice of cheese cake.(sooo soft, afraid to drive the car and crash due to no brakes)

 

Im thinking maybe my e-brake cable is messed up (back aprt where it splits for the calipers, maybe one ebrake cable for the left caliper is shorter than the cable for the right caliper???)

 

Or maybe the new caliper is allready f**ked up right outa the box (it is a re man!)

 

and i guess thats it, my master is fine, so is everything else that i know of. Im just outa ideas on wtf is causing my problems.

 

thank you all.

 

Ignore the typos

[GnatGoSplat]

I could not get my calipers to adjust themselves that way.

 

I think they will automatically adjust to a point, but when you install it, you have to turn the park brake stud out of the caliper as far as it will go, and THEN attach the lever. That was my mistake when I had this problem.

[White93z34]

from what i understand you have to adjust the parking brake otherwise your outer pad WILL fry and ruin pads and rotors, i just changed one last night

after you get it all bled and setup get in the car and set and release your e brake around 75-100 times after that it ought to be set correctly, take a spin come back jack up the back of the car try and spin the wheel it should have a little bit of drag but not much

[Smoke1991]

Here is an update, well both are now adjusting, everything is working nice except now my brake pedal feels like cheese cake still, while the car is off the pedal gets very hard but im still able to push it down b4 it gets rock hard (i beleive that is air in the system) well i know that i bled my system 2 more times today so i have no clue why it would feel soft, my master cylinder is a new (4 months old) and everything else has been replaced, any ideas on what it could be thats causing my spongy brake pedal!!!

 

 

need help!

 

[midnight rider]

Here is an update, well both are now adjusting, everything is working nice except now my brake pedal feels like cheese cake still, while the car is off the pedal gets very hard but im still able to push it down b4 it gets rock hard (i beleive that is air in the system) well i know that i bled my system 2 more times today so i have no clue why it would feel soft, my master cylinder is a new (4 months old) and everything else has been replaced, any ideas on what it could be thats causing my spongy brake pedal!!!

 

 

need help!

 

 

get a vacumn brake bleeder and don't look back. so much easier.

[Smoke1991]

well ok, good diea, but where should i buy a vacume brake bleeder kit? any suggestions on a decent priced one, i looked on yahoo shopping and found ones for like 40 bucks. Any suggestions??

 

 

Ignore the typos

[GnatGoSplat]

What's a vacuum bleeder? I bought a "Mity-Vac" one-man bleeder that came with a vacuum pump. I never could get it to work worth a crap though. It would suck in air from the bleeder fitting so I couldn't tell if the air was from the brake line or just air that it sucked in.

 

I've heard good things about pressure bleeders though.

Those replace the lid on the MC reservoir.

[94CutlassSLCoupe]

I never have had any problem with bleeding brakes by pumping them, running a hose onto the end of the bleeder, into a jar with some brake fluid in it...once the bubbles stop coming out of the hose, you're done.

 

Otherwise i'd look the whole system over for leaks (especially at the soft line to hard line joints)...these cars have a problem with the lines rusting out near the gas tank where the factory unions are. They rusted out on my old 88 (it was wierd to see metric bubble flare on 3/16" line) so i'm gonna keep them oiled up on my 94.

[GnatGoSplat]

I never have had any problem with bleeding brakes by pumping them, running a hose onto the end of the bleeder, into a jar with some brake fluid in it...once the bubbles stop coming out of the hose, you're done.

 

Yeah, I always had to revert back to conventional bleeding after trying all the "one man" gimmicks. Only problem with conventional bleeding is it needs 2 people.

[Robby1870]

Smoke1991, how "soft" is soft? All the pre 94 Ws Ive driven/owned, the brake pedal always has to be pushed in a decent bit before it actually starts slowing the car down

[Guest Anonymous]

while the car is off the pedal gets very hard but im still able to push it down b4 it gets rock hard (i beleive that is air in the system)

 

 

It does not mean there is air in the system. When you shut the car off there is a vacuum reserve left in the booster. It is there in case your car quits going down the road and you need to stop. But after pressing the brake a couple times the vacuum bleeds off and the pedal gets real hard.

 

If I were you I would bleed all 4 wheels again until you have nothing but clean fluid coming out.

[Guest Anonymous]

BTW, you did put the new calipers on right didn't you. The bleeder should be on top. Not being an ass. Just making sure. If the bleeders are on the bottom you'll never get all the air out.