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**RUNNING BAD** NEED HELP!!!!!!


turbo24car

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WELL OUT OF THE BLUE FROM TIME TO TIME, WHEN I START UP THE CAR IT GOES INTO A HIGH IDEL LIKE CLOSE TO 3GRAND AND THEN DOENT REALY IDEL BACK DOWN.THEN WHEN YOU DROP IT IN GEAR IT IDELS AT LIKE 2000 WITH OUT EVEN PUTING YOUR FOOT ON THE GAS.BUT WHATS REALLY WEIRD IS WHEN YOU DO GO TO GIVE IT GAS,DEPENDING ON HOW MUCH GAS YOU GIVE LIKE IF YOU GO TO JUMP DOWN ON IT WILL DROP RPMS AND ALMOST DIE.BUT UNDER NORMAL DRINING AND YOU GIVE IT GAS THE RPMS DROP 500 AND THEN THE CAR PICKS UP.I HAVE NO IDEA WHAT COULD BE THE PROBLEM SO IF ANY ONE HAS ANY SUGGESTIONS I WOULD APPICATE,THANKS DAVID

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So far, I've changed my plugs, wires, coils, ICM, and TPS sensor. My car is having somewhat similar issues at the moment, except my idle isn't very smooth. If it starts at 2,500 or so, it will drop a tiny bit, and then kick back up to 2,500. So far, I've gotten a code 22 (low TPS voltage), and a 33 recently (high MAP sensor voltage). Neither one of these codes stays on more than a few seconds. I just put the TPS on there about a month ago (infact, the problems didn't start until after I did that). It hasn't run right since I bought it, but it got much worse after the TPS change. When I unplug the TPS, it didn't make a change in the ridiculously high idle. I tried swapping computers and chips to no avail, and vacuum tested the map which held vacuum fine, and effected the readings on the scanner like it should at different pressures. I believe both the TPS and MAP sensor share the same ground (according to my diagnostics instructions, either one can trigger the other if there's a problem), so I'm going to start with cleaning off the contact points really good, and see if that doesn't help. Then, for the hell of it, I'm going to try swapping the map sensor with the ones off the other car and spare motor. Then I'll try putting the old TPS back on. If that doesn't resolve anything, I'm going to remove the plenum (which I have to do anyways to change the FPR and get the injectors balanced + cleaned), and start tracing the TPS wires on back, looking for exposed wires that may be causing the problem. Luke went through this already, and found 2 exposed wires rubbing each other was the cause of his problems. If all that doesn't work I'll have the injectors checked out (even though the guy that did the scan said it's putting out enough at idle) and check the FPR (the only reading that looked odd was the fuel integrator which, after the circuit went closed loop, would drop to 110, and rapidly count down to 80-75, and then jump right back to 110 and start all over again. You could hear it very mildly in the idle when it jumped back). This may be due to the leaking crossover, though. Not sure, but the o2 sensor is new. He called another guy who said he's almost positive it's the FPR if it's doing that. We'll see. I'm determined to get to the bottom of this.

 

With your issue, you may want to look at the intake gasket and the PCV for leaks. Fairly common on these cars, and will cause a similar reaction to what you're seeing. Also, your FPR might be ready to take a croak if it idles too high, then feels like it's going to die when you step on the injectors. Anyways, that's a starting point. Others may be able to give you more to go on. Let me know if you find anything. :shock:

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thanks for the help, i replaced the pcv and found a vacum hose wasent all the way on and now it seems to be running pretty good KNOCK ON WOOD so thanks again for the help. :D

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