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need help asap with O-ring replacement


sonyman87

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Ok, im as far into the motor i can see the timing chaing drive shaft(removed vally plate) and im trying to figure out how to change the O-ring thats directly under the lower intake. the same oring that comes with the felpro intake gasket set.. I pulled the clamp holddown bolt off and i can spin it move it up and down about 1mm but the biggest problem is the Heads have a metal tab that goes directly over it! Im not about to cut into my heads to get this thing off and im not pulling the back head to get to it. anyone know what im talking about????

 

is there some trick im forgetting here?

help please!

 

while im waiting for replays im going to abandon this part of the project and go finish P&P my upper and lower intakes :D

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IIRC and you are talking about the 3.4 which is posted on your www tab, you have to remove the rear head to get the oil pump drive out. Assuming you are talking about the 3.4.

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Use a dremel or some other type grinding tool (cover the ports) and notch one small section of the top of the plug lip. Do it about 1/4 inch or so. This will enable you to get the plug up high enough in order to either slip a distributor gasket with RTV or a rubber O ring around (also with RTV).

 

Then clamp the thing back down and allow it to dry overnight.

 

Your other alternative is to pull the head and do it correctly. I did the cheap fix and it has held for at least a year now, nice and dry!

 

Good luck!

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NAPA sells a product called "The Right Stuff". After you grind out 1/4" out of plug, you can lift up and clean area. This stuff comes in a can like cheez whiz, so it is easy to squirt it all around the area. Then use a small screwdriver to spread around. Let dry min. 2 hrs. and reassemble. It worked for me. It costs $15.00 for a small tube.

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Ok. i cut into the cap 1/4 across and now i realize that it will not come up not b/c of the tab but b/c its locked somehow on the other side! WTF!!!

 

unless anyone has any better ideas. im going to use some high temp rtv and make a liquid gasket around and under the base the best i can.

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Can't you rotate it so the notch is directly under the head? It should spin freely. Be sure and clean the surfaces real good with Brakleen or something along those lines or the RTV won't adhere worth a damn.

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I didn't notch anything.

 

I just lifted it up as high as it would go which is maybe 3/16" or so, and cleaned under it with a rag soaked in lacquer thinner. I may have even used a Q-tip, I don't remember. Once it was good and clean, I slipped a 1/16" thick O-ring over the head of it. The diameter of the O-ring isn't very big, but big enough to fit tightly around the shaft. Once I did that, I squeezed some black gasket RTV underneath for extra insurance. Then I tightened it down just a little so that a tiny bit of RTV squished out. I let it cure 24hrs and then tighened the bolt fully, but not quite as tight as spec because I didn't want to crush my O-ring or squeeze out the RTV.

 

It's held up great for 2yrs, not a drop leaked!

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well. when i said i was pulling on it i ment with channel locks nice and hard still didnt come up. what i did was clean the surface around itspread some rtv and spun it and spun it until the atvcovered the base. I used RTV on the valley plate, replaced the lower gaskets, upper gasket, assembled everything and it actualy STARTED!!! whoot . drove it down the road 2 miles and it started spewing smoke like crazy. didnt smell like gassoline didnt smell like oil but it was a mixture of coolant and something. Im just hopeing it was the puddles that were sitting on the heads. So, for now the car is parked until tomarrow to let the gaskets seal better. i didnt drive on the rtv until 12hours after intall.

 

also i dont recomend Polishing and Porting the Intakes for the Automatic, maybe its just b/c put them in, but i lost a ton of lowend and the highend dosnt kick in until alsmost 5k rpms.... then again its 2 early to tell and i havent driven my car since sunday... onlytime will tell

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