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She dont look like much kid but she's got it where it counts...

In the GP it's mounted to the topside of the right rear parcel shelf next to the speaker.

Nope….a couple screws, pull a couple interior pieces and it’s right there. I figured all the coupes would be similar, but you know….. GM. I had tried fixing mine last summer, but I really needed a better soldering iron. I had managed to get it working for a bit though. I traced it back to a bad solder joint on one of the pins where the vehicle side wiring harness plugs in. I could wiggle the connector slightly and get it working. I’ve since gotten better soldering equipment, redid those connections over the weekend….and now it’s back to not working at all. I’m sort of apprehensive to try again though, as the driver side power door lock actuator goes through the RKE module, even when using the door switches. If I screw something up…I don’t want to lose my power locks altogether. Since it’s not a daily, I’ll likely leave well enough alone for now.

I've been working on this for the last four days, and it took over 120 cycles (what the manual says could be "several" but I lost count) of back-and-forth rotation to get it to where there were no more air bubbles and the pump was finally quiet again. Determined to fix this once and for all, I had gotten an OEM pump off a junkyard Z34 and installed it, then proceeded with the bleeding procedure in cycles of 10 at a time. I've replaced the pump at least three times before over the years, and have tried the cold-weather fluid as well. Nothing has ever worked and most things just made it worse, because the problem all along has been pump cavitation from air in the system that I never knew the right way to bleed it out.

So I know it has been a while, but in case this is still a problem for anyone and for future reference, I found that I have been doing the bleeding procedure incorrectly - and most of the YouTube instructional videos are too. I found the proper procedure in the FSM and I'm posting it here. BLEEDING THE POWER STEERING SYSTEM After replacing the fluid or servicing the power steering hydraulic system, you must bleed air from the system. Air in the system prevents an accurate fluid level reading, causes pump cavitation noise and over time could damage the pump. To bleed the power steering system, proceed as follows: 1. Begin with the engine off, front wheels off the ground. and wheels turned all the way to the left. 2. Add either standard power steering fluid or optional cold climate fluid, to the "FULL COLD" mark on the fluid level indicator. Refer to MAINTENANCE AND LUBRICATION (SECTION OB) for information on power steering fluids. 3. Bleed the system by turning the wheels side to side without hitting the stops. ! Important This may require turning the wheels from side to side several times. Keep the fluid level at the "FULL COLD" mark. Fluid with air in it has a light tan appearance. This air must be eliminated from the fluid before normal steering action can be obtained. Start the engine. With the engine idling, recheck the fluid level. If necessary, add fluid to bring the level to the "FULL COLD" mark. 5. Return the wheels to the center position. Lower front wheels to the ground. Continue running the engine for two or three minutes. 6. Test the vehicle to be sure the steering functions normally and is free from noise. ! Important Inspect for fluid leakage at connection points along the power steering system. 7. Recheck the fluid level as described in Steps 3 and 4 except that the fluid level should now be up to the "FULL HOT" mark after the system has stabilized at its normal operating temperature.

Is it a coupe? In my Regal, it’s behind the passenger side rear interior panel. I believe all of the 1st gen coupes, save for the convertibles have them in a similar location. It’s roughly behind the red circle.

You're wanting to do this for the STE, right? If I remember correctly, all of the early 1st gen Ws used what is essentially the same radio module. The main difference being that some used a separate display and tape/CD deck (Regal and earlier GP), where as others had everything packaged in the form of a 1.5 DIN HU, with the radio module still being a separate, removable item. When I had my 92 cutlass, I had replaced a non-functional tape deck with one from an 88 Regal with the 5 band EQ, as it was the exact same part....just contained in a vastly different package. My Regal FSM has a section that identifies the various connecter pin outs, and also seems to imply that there is 5 volt signal used to switch between Radio and "Aux" inputs. I'll post up some of the information, as it may help in your case.

What about this?

^ Yeah, Matt used to take the *cut & weld* approach, I couldn't understand why he did them that way seeing as he is/was a machinist at the Toyota plant in Woodstock here in Ontario & had access to the needed tools. I prefer to cut the ends & rethread them.