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THANKS TO 94CutlassSLCoupe What you need: RH&LH Calipers and Brackets 1994+ First Gen Mounting Bolts to Knuckle (they are very different) 1994+ Parking brake cables (only the rear ones, from the adjuster back)...these are only two parts Rotors (New) Brake Pads (New) Brake Fluid Slide Pin Grease Banjo Bolt for 94+ caliper (can reuse) Crush washers for banjo bolt (new) Step 1: Jack car off of the ground, remove wheels, remove bolt for brake hose to strut, loosen and remove banjo bolt (fluid will leak so be ready). Remove parking brake cable from caliper. Remove caliper, rotor and also splash shield (held on to knuckle with two very small bolts). By this time i'm sure your family will wonder if you are crazy. Step 2: Remove existing parking brake cables form car (only from equalizer back). Re-install bolts that hold the cables in where it crosses ahead of the gas tank, otherwise you'll have a leak. Save the equalizer and spring if you don't get new ones with your 94+ cables. Step 3: Either remove your auxiliary spring brackets that are on your rear lateral links OR do what i did and make a 3/4" knotch in the corner with a cut-off wheel for caliper clearance. (If you have a 94 Lumina you may not have this issue, its what I ran into on my dad's 1990 FE3 car) Step 4: Cut mounting bracket on brake hose off carefully with cut off tool (don't get it too hot). You will also have to straighten the metal part of the line near the banjo bolt so it will mount to the 94+ caliper. You CANNOT use 94+ brake hoses because they drop off of the body behind the strut and the earlier version mounts ahead of the strut. You may want to get new hoses because yours may be rusty or brittle (and possibly crack). Step 5: Now we're in the home stretch....install the 94+ rotor and use one of your stock lug nuts (put the hex toward the rotor) to hold it in place. Slide the mounting bracket over the rotor and secure it with the mounting bolts. Make sure to torque them to the factory specs (I assume you have a Haynes manual). thoroughly clean the slide pin surface (will be closest to the strut) and apply fresh SLIDE PIN grease. Slide the caliper on to the slide pin and install the abutment clips and brake pads. Finally install the bottom bolt through the bottom slide pin (captured in caliper). Make sure the boots are not leaving any of the pins exposed. Install brake hose using the 94+ banjo bolt and new crush washers. Step 6: Bleed system. I use a glass jar and some vacuum line for this job. That way, you can easily see that you got all the air out. Have someone inside pump the pedal and don't forget to check the master cylinder. Start with the right rear first. Step 7: Install 94+ cables. that is a picture of how they route in a 94 car. Route them how you please, using this as a guide. The place where the old style cables clip into the frame doesn't work anymore. I used quite a few zip ties. Adjust the cable how you please. If its an automatic car, you should not be able to pull away with the parking brake on and the car in drive. Crack a beer and enjoy more reliable brakes! My dad's car is a Non-ABS car and it stops straight and true without having premature rear lock up even on dirt. Also another good thing to do would be to look at your front rotors and make sure the inboard side (toward the engine) does not look like this. For parts, whitebox rotors are ok, although I highly suggest you use the NAPA Tru-Stop pads (about $22). Expensive pads in the rear won't do much for you.

I'm been doing a flush every 2-3 years on all my vehicles. Both my buds looked at me like I'm crazy. I saved the plastic pop bottle that was full of old black brake fluid, (first time when I did a flush on both the Black Cutlass sedan daily and International), and then I think it hit home. They both recently did flushes on all their vehicles and I think I finally got thru to them. No more crazy looks from them when I mentioned it again.

https://www.w-body.com/topic/29805-94-rear-brake-upgrade/ https://www.w-body.com/topic/29805-94-rear-brake-upgrade/#comment-464804

Where just the rears are concerned...... If one wishes to do this one will also need the later design rotors as well (larger diameter), along with the entire parking brake system, that includes the pedal assembly. Where the fronts are concerned one will need the 95-96 front struts that provide for the larger diameter rotors. The calipers remain the same.

Does anyone know the dimensions of the 3.1 v6's. I'm looking into motor swap ideas and have two two options but I can't find the dimensions to compare. Any help and advice is greatly appreciated.

ok always like that motor had it in my 93 deville the turbo 3.1 seemed interesting to build but would love to do the 4.9 looks like a clean swap

Uploaded 14 years ago on a Potato. Cool car, but a N* V8 no thank you.

Been done before. Looks like it fits.

Gotcha! the 3800 is addicting to mod for sure! (speaking from experience) I do not know about the size, but I'm pretty certain the northstar has been swapped into a 1st gen before!

It's not pre-96 or a V8, but for the power you want, an L67 is as straight forward as a swap as you will find. And you can easily make more than 250HP with readiliy available parts. Otherwise, an LS4 fits with minor mods to the passenger strut tower, and there used to be a 5.0L v8 swap(I just can't remember what it was from) it wasn't very popular. I do believe the N* will fit as well. Good Luck with what ever you decide! If it's not an L67, you will be one of only a handful who has done it and will be cool to see!

Up to you. I think any v8 swapped w body, (even the factory installed ones) are cool. I’ve had engines out of both 4.9 and 4.6 Cadillacs. I’d wager money the northstar is no way no how going to fit in a Grand Prix. I used to daily a 2003 Deville and that is a huge car. With a huge hood, wide, and all that size, the engine is still shoehorned into the chassis. Good luck!

I’m pretty sure there is a guy in Russia who did a 4.9 before swapping it to something else. I love the north star engines, I’ve worked on many. But it is gigantic and would be very surprised if it fit. Why not an LS4?

16" CS International Series Rims fit all 16" wheels should fit as a result. Realistically, I don't have any idea why someone wouldn't run the 16's anyway since they are so common. FWIW: The white box rotors from advance are of the solid rotor type. I have used these with much success. My dad's been driving the car for a few weeks, he says it works great and i know he'll be much happier with these since we probably won't be changing calipers every two years.