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Change your procedure. Stop replacing parts, start diagnosing. The only parts you should be replacing are the sort of "tune-up" items that would be expected to fail after a normal service life. The Usual Three: Verify fuel pressure at prime, at idle, and under load. Most fuel pressure gauge assemblies have a push-button pressure release connected to crappy vinyl tubing. Route the tubing so it empties into a drain pan, then push the button while the engine is running. This simulates higher fuel demand if you can't check fuel pressure on the highway. Fuel pressure should remain steady even with fuel flowing down the pressure-relief tubing. TBI systems don't hold pressure when the pump stops running, but the other fuel injection styles should. How old is the fuel filter? Have you ever dumped a bottle of Chevron Techron Complete Fuel System Cleaner into the gas tank? (Recommended at every oil change.) How old are the usual “tune-up” parts and procedures? Inspect/replace plug wires, spark plugs. Use quality parts sourced from an authorized seller (NO COUNTERFEIT PARTS FROM AMAZON, EBAY, OR OTHER SKETCHY SELLERS!) Be sure the ignition coils will reliably fire a spark-tester calibrated for HEI when the coils are fully warm, and misted with water from a squirt-bottle. Cranking compression test of all cylinders while the spark plugs are removed. Verify EGR, PCV, EVAP, and Heated Air Intake (if used) systems for proper operation. Verify proper electronic spark advance. Replace old O2 sensors unless you can PROVE that they're working properly—old O2 sensors get lazy, they don't provide accurate data, but they do provide “data” that fools people into thinking they're “working”. Connect a scan tool (NOT a crappy “code reader”) and look for “codes”. More important, look at the data stream to verify EVERY sensor and computer output. Verify fuel trims during the time that the vehicle is not running properly. Look for misfire counts for each cylinder (OBD2 only.) “Codes” have official diagnostic procedures that will be found in the service manual set for your vehicle.

That is valid. I usually save stuff on my flash and SD card Sent from my HTC Sensation using Tapatalk

Yup i like hard copies of info i need in case the electronic source fails or i go very long w/o net service. Printed bumpin96montes l67 swap how to off mymonte.com, 6 monthes later the forum died

You actually printed this thread?

if you go to print this thread its 102 pages long lol

I'm guessing some folks just have general problems with the cruise being inoperable. In the case of the manual trans swaps, it's a matter of either the range position switch being in the right position to enable cruise (drive range) and/ or the trans codes inhibiting cruise. My dumb ol' Haynes manual doesn't give pin numbers/ letters for most of the wiring diagrams (cruise control module included) so I had to do some digging to guess which one of the 2 dark green wires was the VSS and which one was the cruise inhibit. I thought if I bypassed the the inhibit signal that it would force the cruise to engage. It turns out I had pulled the VSS wire instead, because when I plugged it back in (after already turning off the trans codes in the PCM) it started working. Regarding the wiring I did in my swap: that was just for the disable to work with the clutch pedal as well as the brake. While not absolutely necessary, I wanted the redundant, factory like function of it; and for safety and stuff.

That's one thing l wish my car had, was cruise control.

Epic.