Leaderboard

IF you "suck" the air out, then fill the vacuum with fluid, there's no air in there. Vacuum filling a cooling system or a PS system is becoming common. Haven't heard about vacuum-filling a hydraulic clutch system, though.

Kent moore made a tool for bleeding this clutch (j-36234) https://www.ebay.com/itm/355704640811?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=4ZMhdKYFRP2&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=c36yZGIlTsG&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY i bought one but I cant figure out how it is supposed to help… it seems to be a reservoir cap with a fitting. Not sure how that is any different than just having an open reservoir

Not sure if it helps but here is what the inside of the accumulator connection looks like:

yeah I know the bore sizes are different but other then that I can't say. I know back in 2017 when we Converted Matt's GTP (your old one I believe) to 284 we eliminated the dumb accumulator and used a braided hose

that’s really good information! Thank you!!!! I know they physically look the same but figured the internal bore may be a bit different and wasn’t sure what the affect would be! wonder if the slave would be similar situation. And how it would al work together!

Now you should hopefully be ready to install the engine and trans. As with other big and heavy stuff, having a helper is always the way to go, but alas, I had no helper this time around upon installation. But first, I had to get the auto trans mount bracket off the cradle. Now I can't say for sure on all cradles, but on mine, the holes were already there for the 5-speed trans mount. This may not be true on other, newer cradles. Apparently the 2nd gen cars are hit or miss. After that, carefully lift and roll into place with your hoist. To quote another thread "MMMMmmm, that engine bay looks hungry; lets feed it!" Like with removal, you'll have to slowly guide the assembly so as to avoid pinching any wires or hoses. Having a spotter/ helper is great, but it can be done by yourself if you're patient and keep watching it carefully. When I saw this underneath: I couldn't help but think of this: Once you get it in, it's a matter of bolting everything back up. I hate to be like the book, but "installation is the reverse of removal". If there is great need or want for reassembly, I suppose I could post pics and whatnot, but it's really just the reverse from here on out. The only exception is hooking up the shifter cables and the clutch hydraulics. For the shifter cables, it's just a matter of routing them to the trans. They'll go underneath and right next to the downpipe and rear exhaust manifold. While it's probably not necessary, I wanted the extra insurance of protection them from the heat, so I wrapped them in header wrap The smaller select cable just presses on the studs and the plastic retainers hold them in place, assuming they're unmodified. In the case of the larger shift cable, mine had the bushings replaced with brass at some point, not by me. After you slip these on, you'll need to put a small E-clip on to hold them on. You can get these from the parts store or hardware store. You'll need 2 of them; one on the trans and one on the shifter. I think the size is 5/16". If you are using the stock clutch hydraulics with the accumulator, everything should just bolt right up. The accumulator bolts right next to the slave cylinder on the trans. If, on the other hand, you want upgrade the hydraulics to eliminate the accumulator, see this thread: http://www.w-body.com/showthread.php/76462-Getrag-284-282-SS-braided-clutch-hydrualics-bleeding-procedure I went head and purchased the following from the thread: If you follow the above thread, you'll be able to get rid of that crappy accumulator and have a nice firm clutch.

I'm gonna have to bookmark this for my GP...