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https://web.archive.org/web/20161019020737/http://www.rodneydickman.com/n36.html I did find that.

The post from the fiero board...well...that's a causality of Photobucket.

He must have pulled that page as it was a reference to a static HTML page. If he moved the page (deleted it or otherwise) the link posted above will "die". It does appear that he is selling his business and the domain name.

Of course. Aesthetics are always subjective, so by all means, to each their own. Just giving my impressions of them. A larger amount of smaller diodes may help a bit, but the real thing that's bugging me is the fact that there's nothing more to the lights than dotted LEDs that just go straight across the entire panel. It just gives off a cheap aftermarket or homemade look to me. There's no design or style what so ever to the layout of the dots which makes them look nothing like what the factory might have done back then had the technology existed. Like on the Fiero, if he could at least outline the outer edges with the defused "light bar" look that a lot of newer cars get from the factory, it would add some design interest to it. Take for example the original version of the G8 aftermarket LED tail lights vs. the newer ones that came out a couple years ago. Even the originals had a simple C shape outline of dotted LEDs for the parking lights portion, so it looked a lot closer to what the factory might have done had they gone LEDs. But the updated ones converted the C shape outline to the defused light bar look, which looks even better/more modern to me. I have several gripes with both designs, but both are definitely a step from the bicycle reflector looking factory lights.

I have an f40 trans from an 07 g6 GT as well as a 2006 monte carlo lz9 3900 and will be doing a swap over this winter I will update with details as it goes along

I've been trying unsuccessfully to find a donor at my local picknpull for a 284 swap. I came across only one getrag 284 and it wasnt useable as someone took the car on a joyride and pretty much pluncked 2-3 holes in the case and twisted the subframe so needed a torch which isn't allowed in the yard. that was over 2 years ago and there hasn't been another since; my last 2 trips there weren't even any LQ1s there. Im thinking now the only way to get a 5 speed in my GTP is to use a 282?? biggest question is will a 282 actually mate to the LQ1? i've read way back that it will but needs way more work to finish. Still doesn't help me with GP clutch pedals center console, clutch cylinders etc... If it does bolt up any word on what's needed to refit the wiring? anybody have a 284 sitting around?? or just the pedal and plate? seems the clutch cylinders are still available from some parts stores. Any input here would help. My ultimate goal is 8 PSI turbo so i need to consider if a 282 can take 350 hp as well.

Following this as I’m rejuvenating and doing a full resto on an m284 STE sedan. Great info here.

Hey Jay! over 11 years later I am still using your write up! links all still work! Thanks! -Jarek

Quick question. My 92 lumina is making a metal on metal sound when my foot is off the clutch, the second I put my foot more than halfway down on the clutch it goes away. I am now getting a loud clunk when letting off the gas, shifting gears, etc. is that the T/O bearing or the input shaft bearing? Any feedback helps, thanks.

I haven't ordered anything yet and honestly am no expert at all on this. I'm learning as I go.

Common issue. When you push the clutch in and the sound goes away, its a clutch related issue not a transmission related issue. I ran a spec clutch with their T/O bearing, That was the loudest clutch ever. I went back to a Bully Clutch, and I hardly have any noise. But its a T/O bearing related noise. Just because of the setup, and the play between the clutch fork and the bearing.

Ya, I think I remember finding one on a GM parts overstock site, but the TOB was something north of $200 IIRC. Regarding my TOB, it's not that that was making noise. My first 284 sounded like that with the BRAND NEW Spec clutch and new TOB. The noise sounded like rocks inside the transmission while sitting idling. The noise would near instantly go away upon pushing the clutch in. I swapped the same TOB and Spec clutch into my 2nd 284, and the trans is silent. I do occasionally get a light tapping at idle if the clutch is let out abruptly, but it goes away if you gently release the clutch. It's almost as if the TOB or fork isn't "centered" upon release of the clutch if you snap the pedal out to fast.

You can find them separate, just depends on how deep your pockets are. But the 284 uses a pull type clutch. The T/O bearing snaps into the pressure plate then the fingers on the bearing slide into the clutch fork. You can find them but most are not cheap. Post a pic of the one you have. And that noise you have is not you input shaft bearing. It's the T/O bearing. Common problem with the 284's is a noisy T/O bearing. Sent from my iPhone

which is about 2.1qts. I just use 2qts. GM synchromesh.

GM says 4.2 pints.

OK, killed the T/O bearing and switched the seals to the P/N you mentioned. How many quarts of Syncromesh? I'll do a search as well...

Ah, yes. I figured Synchromesh -- forgive my noobishness.

That clutch kit should come with a T/O bearing. Also, the output shaft seal should be a 2003N. Don't know where that part number came from. Also, just an FYI, match up those flywheels before you install the new one. I've had issues with them having the wrong number of teeth. Then you gotta pull everything back apart to change it out. What type of transmission fluid are you using?

That trans was the one that was grinding 2nd gear. So I'm guessing that synchro is gone. Kinda why I've been tearing into it. Not to mention I lost some detent parts so its no good anyways. One of these days I'm gonna try and press out the shafts and see what I have to work with.

like button don't work... I like this^^

Here's some good info on the detent system. Shows a 282, but it's the same thing between the 282 and 284 http://www.rodneydickman.com/n36.html http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum9/HTML/000008.html

Yes, please do. I would like to see the guts of one of these

I can post a step by step on how to split the case on a 284. It's pretty easy. I would like to atleast get the tools or know what kind of tools I need to service this trans. That way I can compare synchros to some I found that just might work. But I really need synchros from the 284 to compare.

the input shaft seal cannot be serviced separately. The major issue with them isnt always the seal leaking but moreso the sleeve itself cracks. I have a couple that have done so. Synchros are a pita and we need to find a supplier soon

Jay, care to share any pictures? Jarek, do you have a picture of the input shaft seal assembly out of the car? I'd think we have enough people here who are machinists/know machinists that a similar solution to the 282 could be made for the 284 Looking at how a 282 is serviced here may provide insight into the 284, It seems the bearing IS the seal. As someone presently running a 284 of unknown history, I'd like to be able to service it.

FYI Timkin 2003N is a output shaft seal, not input shaft seal.

the main issue is the sleeve cracking and wearing and the seal tearing. the seal is moulded in to the housing itself. Im hoping by next year either myself or Jay, somebody, maybe Rodney Dickman?? can come up with a solution. Even if just the bearing is used and something is just matched up for the seal and make the tube out of stainless like RD has been doing would be awesome. I need to fix this myself there is nothing stronger than a 284 trans. I snapped the crank before the trans only issue has been that pesky leaking seal. I will keep you informed if a solution arises. That 2003n is the correct number. also I believe Timken 3543 is a common part for that axle seal Jarek RRRM

If you out a 282 behind a 3.4 my only piece of advice is to ensure you fab a intermediate shaft bracket and motor mount bracket before you install the engine/trans into car. Also ensure you bring subframe with you to get proper alignment on the motor mount part. Any questions let me know! But that was the biggest pain in the ass!!!

I've got a 90 TGP with the 282 and it holds up great. Stock clutch won't be enough tho, so you definitely need an upgrade. Had to throw a stocker in when my Spec chucked a spring. Stock clutch starts slipping just after boost kicks in.

Cavs use a different 282 with different mounts

Good to know thanks for the info. If I found a 5 speed cavalier it would be a 282 in all v6s then? still wouldn't solve the clutch pedal issues for me unless i fabricated. i'll have to check those kits out to.

Yes, my GTP has the LQ1 / 282 combo, aside from some gearing differences (IMO the 284 is geared better for the LQ1) it works just fine and will take anything any LQ1 could possibly dish out, especially with a decent stage 2 or stage 3 clutch. Just look at the abuse the Cavalier and Fiero guys put their 282's through, with northstar swaps, LS4 swaps, L67 swaps, turbo 3500's / 3400's etc

Matt Shantz has the LQ1/282 swapped car Baker did..... he seems impressed so far.

Venom has a complete setup minus the clutch, flywheel bolts. PM him aboot it. It comes with new hydraulics and axles. Sent from my Transformer TF101 using Tapatalk 2

yes, a 282 will bolt up and work just fine, however, like Anthony said, it's just not nearly as strong, and with the torque the LQ1 makes you may be doing another swap sooner than later. Also, check the FS section, there have been some 284 kits for sale lately