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Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/24/2024 in all areas

  1. if the balljoints have already been replaced once then you need basically zero special tools to do them on a 89' loosen the nut on the bottom of the balljoint, smack the control arm with a hammer till it pops free. you might need a big ol balljoint fork to separate from the control arm unscrew the 4 small bolts that hold it in, theres a dust shield that has a couple small fasteners then its out, replace and move on. if its still original the job gets a bit more annoying and you have to drill rivets out
    2 points
  2. You don't need a press or to hammer anything in. OEM are riveted into place, and you'd need to cut off the rivet heads, Aftermarkets are nut/bolted into place. So if they have been replaced before, then all you'll need is a pickle fork to seperate the balljoint from the control arm and a socket set/wrenches.
    1 point
  3. 55trucker

    Performance Brakes on a 1st Gen

    For any individual who owns a 91-93 LQ1 equipped car the process of installing the newer designed booster is not a simple process. The issue is not the booster itself, both old & newer booster use the same cam-lock design to fasten it into place, it is the additional alteration of the plumbing around the larger booster. The inlet heater core piping has to be relocated to accommodate the larger diameter booster. The 94 model year saw GM redesign the a/c for the vehicle, 134a was introduced in 94, the back end of the a/c compressor was redesigned & saw a new manifold assembly fitted to it, the accumulator/drier was reconfigured by replacing the fittings with a newer different thread pitch so the older manifold assembly will not connect it at all, the same for the 94+ condenser, the fittings are not interchangeable with the older pieces. The a/c fluid return piping from the evaporator core for the older system will interfere with the larger diameter booster, so one has to replace that older piping with the newer design which redirects the piping in behind the booster down & away from the bottom of the booster so the newer booster will mount & lock into place. I discovered all of this at the time I did the upgrade to the newer larger booster, I had to remove the heater piping & cut it in multiple places to braze in extensions to move the inlet further to the left side of the new booster. I purchased the later 94+ a/c fluid piping & accumulator/drier from Rockauto, (I already have the newer 134a compressor & manifold installed into the car) because I still have the older design condenser (a new one) in the car I had to cut off the fittings of both of the ends of the manifold hose assemblies (old & new) that go to the condenser & then tig on the older pitch fitting to the newer hose so that the fitting would screw into the older design condenser. All this took me about 2 weeks to do as I had to wait for delivery of parts from Rockauto, but after it was completed the *new* brakes are well worth the effort I went to.
    1 point
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