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For those of you that have a Getrag 284/282 and want to get rid of that accumulator between the master cylinder and slave cylinder, well first of all good choice! This will improve clutch pedal feel. It might make the pedal a little stiffer, but shouldnt be by much. Heres what youll need, and what youll need to do. First you need a 282/284 master and slave cylinder. I get them from roack auto on a wholesale closeout. They are very cheap and have name brands. These come with everything you need to install them. Youll need these fittings for the slave and master cylinders: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RUS-640281/ Heres the SS braided line that I used. NOTE: you can use a straigh line instead of one with a 90*. I just liked how this fit better than the straight line. Length is 20" which is more than enough room. I used an 18" hose, and its close. Not very much slack to move the line around. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-220314/overview/ Now that you have all the parts, heres how to put them together. I HIGHLY recommend wearing some type of glove, as working with brake fluid sucks, and its nasty stuff. Step 1 - Remove pin from slave cylinder which holds the hose in place. Remove the accumulator from the salve cylinder. Be sure to keep the salve cylinder vertial at all times to avoid any brake fluid from spilling out. Step 2 - Insert one of the fittings into the slave clinder. Insert supplied pin, and use cotter pin for extra insurance. If cotter pin is too long, cut to decent length. Step 3 - Install SS hose on the fitting. The 90* end of the hose will be installed on the slave cylinder. This will come clear later as you install it in the car. Remember, the whole time your doing this, keep slave cylinder vertical as to not spill brake fluid. Make sure fitting is TIGHT. Step 4 - Time to work with master cylinder. Keep master cylinder vertical at all times while working as to not spill brake fluid. Remove pin holding the clutch line into the master cylinder. Step 5 - Install the other fitting into the master cylinder. Insert supplied pin, and use cotter pin for extra insurance. If cotter pin is too long, cut to decent length. Step 6 - Install SS hose to the master cylinder. Make sure fitting is TIGHT. Now you have your custom SS braided hydrualic assembly! Now comes the best part, bleeding! ( insert sarcasm ) This is how Ive always bled the 284 hydrualics, and have had very good results by doing it this way. Since you have made your hydrualic assembly, you now have air in the SS hose. Heres how to get rid of that air. You will need to set this up EXACTLY like the following: Step 1 - Have the reservoir as the highest point in the system. Then the master cylinder. SS hose is to be straight down, with no low or horizontal spots, and the slave cylinder at the bottom. Basically if you help the clutch hydrualics in the air by the reservoir, thats what it needs to look like while you are bleeding it. Step 2 - Unclip the pushrod in the slave cylinder, and allow it to extend completely. Step 3 - Heres where all the work is involved. Having the system as told in Step 1, push down on the slave cylinder to retract the pushrod. Once you have done that, allow the pushrod to extend completely. While doing this, watch the reservoir, and youll be able to see all the air bubbles coming up. Repeat this process untill you no longer see air coming up. Once you have bled your hydrualic system, install in the car, and enjoy your new, better pedal feel! ***NOTE*** This is how I did mine. I have bled the hydrualics several times like this, sometimes I do this for 5 minutes, and other times for 30+ minutes. Just depends on how much air is in the system.

I’m still around from time to time, fixing things or updating software, still paying the bills too lol I also still have my GXP too, just turned over 54k miles on it last month.

Agreeing here with what everyone else is saying. Here in the States, it seems the Z34/5 speed cars are the most common. If I were you, and if you're really wanting a 5 speed car, I buy a 5 speed GTP, PLUS...a Z34/5 speed car for just parts. You could then scavenge what you needed from it to get the GTP reliable, (if it's not already), or have a back up parts car for when the time is needed. I post any rare cars that come up for sale here so please keep an eye out for that information. I also post junkyard cars that people can scavenge from in order to keep our cars alive and road worthy. I also do it for historical reference as well.

Here are some 5 speed stats for you. I think finding the cleanest car body wise you can auto or 5 speed would be your best bet. even if it needs mechanical work, that can be done overtime.

I've seen this mentioned a few times, but when I've inquired I can't seem to discern what exactly is involved besides custom fabrication and machining. Has anyone performed this? I know things are pretty quiet around here these days, but support for the old MT is ever dwindling. I recently picked up a donor Impala SS for my LS4 swap in the Z34 and am adamant about running the 284 with it. Since the starter situation has been solved by LS4 King and Moreso, this leaves the clutch options in the balance as the last real "challenge", as it were. Any help or advice is appreciated. Thanks!

dang gotta couple 10 year veterans (of this incarnation of the forums) up in here. Welcome back.