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My sister has a 95 Cutlass Supreme Convertible that has been sitting for 20 years, garaged in the desert. We'd like to get it running again. Wondering what would be the smart steps to take before turning it over. Oil in the cylinders, things like that.

Im making popcorn as we speak!!

Like most people said, figure at minimum dropping the fuel tank out, inspect replace the tank if its bad. 99% chance it needs a fuel pump and fuel level sender. even if it does work not not sure I'd trust it longterm. I'd dump the coolant, replace that. Fuel injectors MIGHT be ok hard to say there. If you can I'd send those out to get tested/cleaned or just replace them or just send it and see what happens. I'd seriously consider a new waterpump as well. I'd put oil in the cylinders and let it sit for a bit, and try turning the engine over by hand first. is it a 3.1 car or 3.4 car? If its a 3.4 a timing belt would be a good idea in the short term.

You're going to need a fresh battery + a charger on hand to back up the battery, disable everything that will cause the engine to fire (fuel pump relay, ICM harness), I'd remove the serpentine belt just in case any one of the driven accessories are seized, remove the intake snorkel, pull all of the plugs (you want the engine to crank freely), dump the old crankcase oil, pour in fresh oil before cranking, remove the rad cap...anything in there? squirt some engine oil down into the cylinders, if nothng is out-of-order with the starting system now you can turn the key & crank the engine, do so continually so that you can see the oil pressure building on the oil pressure gauge. If you are satisfied you have pressure now start returning items to their proper state, make sure the air cleaner box IS clean, I'd manually spin all of the belt drive accessories to test each one to ensure they are not seized before putting the belt back on. You CAN fire the engine for a short time without the drive belt. You're going need fresh fuel as well.

Plan on a fuel pump and a gas tank. New battery. Oil change. Tires. Probably won’t need much more than that. My Z sat for 10 years.

HI hope I am in the right place. I am trying to help my sister get her 95 cutlass convertible up and running. It has sat in a garage in Palm Springs for about 20 years and I am looking for info on steps to take before trying to start it. I assume it turns over, but have not looked to see how I would check that. Been thinking to put some WD or Mike Marvel oil in the cylinders to soak a bit, but the rear plugs look intimidating. Any info & suggestions appreciated. I wrenched a few old SBC & 60/70 Buick V6 in jeeps, nothing as modern as this. thanks

Am I the only one who thinks this is way more trouble than it's worth? I know that the first-gen rear calipers have a bad reputation, but it's not deserved in my (admittedly limited) experience. I know that on my '92 and '93 Luminas, the rear calipers haven't given me excessive trouble--at least, not more than any other calipers, and less than typical aluminum-bodied calipers. I have had them apart for cleaning and inspection; and even replaced them with "rebuilt" calipers in desperation, trying to fix a "hard pedal, poor braking power" situation a long time ago. The poor braking was due to failing vacuum power boosters on both vehicles, not the calipers/rotors/pads in front or in back.

12.2 volts means the battery is half-dead. CHARGE THE BATTERY and see what happens. A slow-charge overnight would probably be best. A "12-volt" battery when fully-charged should show 12.6--12.8 volts AFTER the battery has been off the charger for an hour or two. This somewhat depends on the battery temperature--higher temperature leads to higher voltage; freezing-cold will produce low voltage. The battery might show 13+ volts directly off the charger, but the excess is "surface charge" that will self-dissipate if left alone for awhile, or it can be removed with a 50 amp load for five or ten seconds.

So my friend of mine bought a '95 Regal with a Series 1 (TPI) with only 93 000km's wich runs like new. Is it safe to put a Series 1 Supercharger on this engine? Or does a Series II supercharger fits also? What would he need to make everything work and safe?? Thanks!

Well I am finally getting around to posing this!(I know its not too pertty looking yet ) I did the swap from the 3.1 back in October, I just needed some more power! its a 1998 montana van 3400 bone stock with 250,000+kms on it. The swap went well, probly a little easyer than the 3400 j-body swap due to needing less parts to get the job done! The car is a 1992 lumina with a 3spd auto, I made a temp/hack job kick down bracket to get me by for now. I welded a tab to the 3400 TB for the cable for now untill the 65mm TB gets installed! Right now the 3400 is working good, it feels like a slightly faster than stock 3.1 off the line untill it hits 3000rpm then it pulls hard till it shifts at 4700! When I first got it running I found out the the stock 3400 injectors are to big when running on the stock 3.1 ECM/tune, it was running like crap and throwing rich codes. I swapped in some small port 3100 injectors and that fixed the problem and runs great now! The other problem I am having is that I have a bad tps causing a hesitation on tip in, but that will be fixed with the larger TB! I am hoping to get it to the track at the start of next month to see what it will run before the headers, TB, ported topend! It feels like a high 15 to me I have only had one person try me from a light in a v6 accord and we where dead even till I let up around 80km and they did not want to try for round 2! any questions on the swap feel free to ask I will try to help. you can find mor pics here: http://s219.photobucket.com/albums/cc307/1quickhatch/3400swap_lumina/

I will try to get some more pics of the engine bay and a list of stuff that needs to be done for the swap in the next week or two!

1QUICKHATCH: Besides the 3400 engine itself, can you tell me (or send a link) a list of what is needed for the swap. I have a '90 Lumina Euro with 3.1/4T60 and considering if it's worth it to swap a 3400 in (from a '01 Alero with ~40k miles on it). Nothing is wrong with my 3.1, but the 3400 should have much better performance and maybe even slightly better fuel economy. Thanks.

the only problems i have hat with the 60* v6's is spun rod bearings, and I am more worried about the 300,000km+ trans. If I spin one now it will get a 3500! as for the tune I may just do an OBD II swap because I am looking at hp tuners for my Alero any ways! going to do an alignment, service the brakes, change the tps, change the plugs and maybe port a newer plenum to try out. Then I will head back to the track in two or three weeks!

don't be surprised when those stock pistons grenade at 6 grand!!!!! not downing your shit or anything, it is just that i have had the honor of blowing up many 3xxx motors which is why i went to the L67. and with that many miles on the engine the rod bearings won't let you torture them for to long until they give up. but the swap looks great and i hope the 3400 gives you another 250,000+kms providing you treat it like a high milage engine. how about a pic of your 76 cutty, cutlass's are bad ass!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! and take Rob's offer for the tune and get those 3400 inj's back in that motor. the tune and inj's will deffinately improve the low end and launch times. is you lumina still obd I, or did you swap in the obd II set up. obd II will allow you to tune and use a 3400 pcm from the get go without it obd I will truly limit your options.

how do you adjust the TV cable???

I have cars with both LQ1s and L36s in them and IMHO the Lq1 is much easier to work on then the L36, if you want something that will never break just put a LH0 in it and call it golden while you cruise down the highway listening to "girls just wanna have fun"