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So me personally - I had mine cut, metal put inside for strength and then welded back together and keeping the same threads, however 55 trucker cut the threads himself and I think this approach is way easier/better than cutting and welding. Saying this, if I was to need to replace this one, I'd 100% buy the proper size die to do it myself. no reason to take to a machine shop if you're comfortable with a using a die. 55 trucker has outlined the size/pitch thread die needed in this thread here.

buy 4 rear lateral links for a 97+ grand prix. They are adjustable. The 97+ link will bolt in and work no issues to replace the 1st gen rear arm the 97+ link will not bolt in for the front of the 1st gen arm - but if you cut 1 inch out of the arm, and re-thread an extra inch (find a 55trucker post on this) they will fit no issues. My recommendation is to match the length of the new arms identical to the 1st gen arm and you will have no issues getting it aligned. ' I have 97+ adjustable arms on the rear of my cutlass. the only issues I've had with alignment is when i installed them and they were the wrong length side to side. Make them the same as the 1st gen and you'll be golden.

Thank yoj as well Manic jiggity76 - the garnet red one is, unfortunately, the parts car. I bought it but wont be able to take it home with me - I’ll just be taking the drivetrain. pics here

1G2WT54X5MF270726: 5150 STEs; 652 had Cassette and HUD; of 652, 33 had a 5 speed; of 33, 21 had a sunroof; of 21, 4 were Bright Red with gray leather. 1G2WT54XXMF286162: 5150 STEs; only 1 was Garnet Red with Garnet Red wheels, 5 speed. and CD.

I know I have one NOS in my my Parts Stash, and theres another member wanting to buy some parts out of that box... I just gotta find it in my garage.. Kids... Dont hoard stuff.. When you want something, you will NEVER find it!

From my own personal *biased* opinion the engine would have to be able to crank ( i.e. not seized), the turbo would have to do the same, hopefully try to fire with the aid of some starting fluid up the intake snorkel. Expect the alternator to be seized, the coolant pump may be in the same boat, a careful inspection of all the plastic vacuum lines for their condition, the coolant hoses would need replacement, etc. Expect to replace ALL of the brake components...calipers, rotors, flex hoses. With regard to the PMIII...the master assembly is mounted to a firewall support that is not the same one used for the non abs system, if one wanted to convert the entire PMIII brake system to vacuum boost one would have to locate a regular non abs car in a salvage yard & go to the effort to disassemble all that is needed to pull that support to install into your project. The chassis would have to be in really good condition, the paint the same......even then, if the powertrain needed an entire rebuild then in reality what you're purchasing is just a rolling chassis & would have to priced as such & the present owner understand that.

They guy that did the welding on mine had some 1/2 round stock that he used to strengthen the area where he welded. I came up with the 1.5in figure as it kept a fairly equal in/out amount of adjustment on the turnbuckle when adjusted exactly to where a stock one falls. We also opted to do it somewhat closer to the threaded end then the rubber end just to not melt the rubber bushing, but outside of that it does not matter.

OK Got this knocked out yesterday. Gave the TGP a rear suspension overhaul. For those that wanna do it themselves. 4 REAR gen2 lateral links work great, and are like $24 brand new off rock auto. the front ones have to be shortened by 1.5 inches to work properly and have a good range of adjustment. The guy who cut and welded mine put a piece of 1/2in round stock inside the joint (fits nice and tight) and chamfered a 45* angle on the edges before welding them. I am confident that they will hold up great. for reference I used RAYBESTOS Part # 5762115 but anyhow. here we go. and yes. you have to drop the rear subframe to get the old ones out, gas tank is in the way of the bolts coming out through the rear. I turned the rear bolts around so if i ever have to drop the links off again its not nearly as bad to do, pic of that shortly. maybe that is why my car was impossible to align. I'd bet some tow truck driver once upon a time did that old crap removed, new lateral links fit like a glove I am so happy with how this worked out, will be doing this to the z34 100% for sure.

Mah main man Jarek got me the measurements, this would be bolt hole to bolt hole... Front links: 22 3/8sin or 56.83cm Rear links 23 3/4sin or 60.32cm looks like the rear ones can be adjusted down far enough with no modifications, but will have limited inward adjustment, lots of outward adjustment. Fronts will require about 1.5in to be removed to fit proper and still have a wide range of adjustment. at this point I think I will try just modifying the front ones to fit and see how the rear does. If I end up needing the adjustment space then I'll cross that bridge when I get there.