Leaderboard

I have a 93 vert and the foam between the copper contacts in the 3 pads in the steering wheel have deteriorated. What can I replace it with? I used a shoe foam insole 15 years ago and it did ok but now bad.

I also have that Kent-Moore kit and it's so handy. For the 91-93 LQ1's, the cam cog puller is a must as well. Starting in 94, GM switched to a lock washer and bolt system that doesn't require this tool. Both of my LQ1's are within that 91-93 year range. This tool right here, this puller, is an absolute blessing! After my local GM dealer said my original motor had a timing issue...and I knew the belt was good and timed correctly, I assumed it was the timing chain. This is a puller for the timing chain and sprockets. The chain and sprockets have to be pulled as one unit due to how they're designed like most timing chain systems. Because of the tight tolerances between the dampener/nose of the crankshaft and right side frame rail, a conventional puller to my knowledge won't fit in that area. I even rented the smallest puller they had a my local parts store and it was still way to big to even try and lock onto the sprockets. I found this bridge puller I think it's called years ago on Ebay. SO GLAD I BOUGHT IT!!!! The GM dealer wanted to either drop the engine cradle on the passenger side or if need be, drop the entire cradle and drivetrain out of my Olds International Cutlass for the repair. Total bill was going to be estimated between $5500-6500. This bridge puller allowed me to do the job myself and only costing me about $100 bucks. This includes the price of the puller, the chain/sprockets, and the guides. This kit also included the tool to drive the crankshaft sprocket and dampener back onto the crankshaft. The repair process and bridge puller being used. You can see the tight tolerances of where this tool needs to work and how beautifully it all fit together. Again, this specialty tool saved me THOUSANDS of dollars! New timing set in place.

Discovered my rear jounce bumpers have the consistency of government cheese and coming apart. Most if not all associated bushings underneath are in need of replacement and heavy surface rust on most metal components. So looking at a full suspension rebuild both front and back. The question is to go coil over in the back or stick to factory replacement?

Seems like 15 years is a pretty good repair interval. Go with the insole!