Leaderboard

I repaired the tacho by installing a trimmer potentiometer of 500kOhm in parallel to pin 4 and 10 and cutting the connection of pin 4 of the existing resistor. That way, the old resistor is out of the circuit, which is necessary if it is not yet fully desintegrated: the resistance would otherwise still creep up and make the rev counter go too high again in the future. I do not have any equipment for a bench test, so I glued the potentiometer on the back of the tacho circuit board so the screw faces a vent hole on the top of the instrument cluster (see picture). This allowed me to install the cluster in the car and do live fine tuning of the resistance using a small screwdriver. Using an Actron CP9690 Elite, I am able to read out the exact rpm from the ALDL connector of the car. The potentiometer I used is a CT-94 eW504 (1 euro in the local electronics shop), the 18 turns of adjustment were enough to do a fine adjustment. I took the cluster apart again after adjustment in order to measure: It ended up at 210.9kOhm. For reference: the old one was above 700kOhm, resulting in the tacho showing about 3.5 times the actual rpm. You can by the way perfectly measure the resistance on the board, this part of the circuit is 'isolated' so you are not measuring any other resistance in parallel of the circuit between pin 4 and 10. So the tacho is repaired, as long as my soldering will stand the test of time . Only issue remaining is the warning light of the water temp not briefly turning on during startup. It used to work a year ago (when I started this thread...). On the instrument cluster connector, C4 (the temperature input) effectively grounds to D8 when the key is turned to start. The gage works perfect, including going all the way up when the starter motor is running. Lamp and all circuits seem OK, apart from what seems a hair crack on a trace, but I measure a perfect connection. I should try to ground the sender to see if the lamp would at least work eventually with an overheated engine, but I am afraid to break the plastic connector of the sender cable. The few start-ups I found on youtube also don't show the the lamp flashing, although it should, so it is probably a common issue.

Doing that "in the chassis" would never happen in MY driveway. That engine would come OUT, so I didn't have to work on my back like a prostitute for the whole job. Flip the engine over on an engine stand, rather than flipping the worker over on the concrete. Likely get a better job done with the main seal, pan gaskets, etc. High mileage? Timing set, rings, head gaskets and valve job. MAYBE bore + pistons, crank grind, block decking...

My 1st thought is ....what has caused a bearing started to knocking? They don't do so because they like to....... The most obvious answer would be ......poor oil pressure. which bearing is the one that has the knock? Front of the engine or rear.......

trailing arm mount right in front of the rear wheels, thats a problem area on these cars

A few things I would like to say before I get started. Number 1; don’t tell me to swap something else in. Don’t tell me I’m going to catch on fire and have to ride my boat Anker into the water to save my life. Number 2; I will say I like 2 things from 3100’s. The sound and the simplicity of working on them. Number 3; Please don’t start a war on how reliable the 3100 is and why I should keep it, I have thought about it. I have tossed up the idea of supercharging it. No thank you, Now lets get started, We can call this my question time, I have plenty of them. If you have answers I would LOVE to hear from you. Question 1; How do most people swap the motor. I have 2 logics to this. 1, Swap motor, sub frame, rack, a-arms, brakes, transmission, and strut assemblies/axels and all! Logic number 2 Install motor and transmission in place of the 3100 on 1st gens sub frame Or would that even work? Question number 2. Wiring? I have lurked threw l67 threads a lot, Let me get this strait. I need PCM/harness from a 1998 Lumina/monte with a 3800? What am I missing out here? Is there a place I can buy a direct swap for the wiring harness? Oh and do the sub frame bolts from a 1st gen to 2nd gen the same/ same width apart.

i've never had the pleasure of using that one before if you need wiring help, i'm sure i can simplify at least a few things for you. other than that, i really don't belong in this thread.

You're going to be looking for any Series II from 96+ in anything really. I'd stick with w-bodies, but they come in Bonnevilles, LeSabres, Regals, Monte Carlos, Impalas, Grand Prixs, Park Avenues, etc etc I'm sure I'm forgetting one. http://www.motorswap.org this site is great for doing the swap.

Good Info!! I know I can use a Z34 LQ1 radiator, no problems, but since the 1st gen Luminas didn't come L67 powered, will an L67 radiator even mount into the core support? Currently I am looking for aftermarket options.... but full aluminum radiators are VERY pricey....

I would think a 3100 top end swap would be easier...use the 2000-up parts and it should crank just as much as an L27...and use your stock block and electronics