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I am looking for a Coolant Level sensor that mounts onto the radiator on the top left side of the radiator. I was able to find one NOS GM part made by AC DELCO at a Chevy Dealership last year. I replaced it a couple months ago and the low coolant light is still on. I was hoping the sensor would shut off the light like it should when the coolant is not low. The reason why I replaced it in the first place was because the low coolant light kept going on and off. It must have had a short circuit in it. I replaced the sensor in 2020 when the low coolant light was on then and the light never came back on. The light came back last year and I thought maybe it was the sensor again like before because the coolant is staying full but the light is still on saying coolant is low. After I replaced it the light never went out and the coolant is full. GM has discontinued this part number by GM 14094922. It was suspended to part number 8859353. I was going to purchase one of the remaining ones off ebay. But none of the sellers will offer free returns if the sensor is defective and has to be returned. So I was wondering if anything aftermarket that is reliable has the sensor available so I can get warranty. Keep in mind those parts on ebay are nos. They can't replace it if the part is defective out of the box because they aren't available to get an replacement.

Good evening all! Jeremy here. New to the group but been lurking for 13 yrs now. Had a 94 z34 from 2011-12. Ex wife killed that. Just got a 93 cutlass coupe convertible a few days ago. Needs a bit of work but nothing crazy. Torch red pretty thing. I'll do my best with updates and pics as work progresses on the old girl. Couldn't be happier to be a w body owner again

She's not without problems. Verified timing belt shredding itself, active coolant leak (unsure of location now), a 2in tear in the top, cut in the driver side weatherstrip above the window, and a problem with the seal at the driver side windshield where the top meets. The last two let water in. Rain all day yesterday verified the leaks. I don't have a garage so I bought a car cover. But coming from Chicago I haven't found rust anywhere. And she's 30 years old now. Perfect is hard to find at a reasonable price with lower miles.

Ok, I checked the sensor a week ago and the wiring. The sensor I got was back in July, last year. I replaced it because I was putting a new radiator in and wanted to save time. I also got a new engine installed too so I wanted to replace some sensors to put on the new motor. I needed a new ECM as well because water got into it. The shop installed everything with the new engine. The low coolant light was on. They thought maybe it was the ecm. But the ecm had no codes and wasn’t causing any drivability concerns. So they said it could just be a bad wire like you said. The shop knows I know my car better than anyone inside out because I provided the parts and found the motor myself. I checked the connector and wiring along the sensor. All clean and connector was tight and clean. I thought for the hell of it, the shop gived me my old coolant level sensor back. I put that back on and what do you know the low coolant light went out. So it had to be that nos sensor the dealer sold me. No wonder they charged me so cheap for it. These sensors nos GM are expensive. It was probably a bad sensor they had sitting on the shelf and wanted to get rid of it. I am going to have to drive the Buick and monitor it to make sure the light don’t come back on. I will let you know if it comes back on or not. I am gonna take her for a long drive.

Low coolant light was lit up on my '92 for a couple of years. Then it went out. I wouldn't guarantee that it's the sender at fault. Could just as easily be the wire harness with bare wire, or a fault in the instrument cluster. I would absolutely verify the harness before I crammed-in another sensor, whether from GM or an aftermarket sensor from a local parts store.

Milzy Moto says he can do the swap for $5000 so it is possible to make it work and rite. Can't afford $5000 so IDE do it myself. He said for that swap you have to change over most every part controlled by the PCM over. He said virtually you have to make it think it's an 06. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It's even worse, some of the newer E and P series PCMs can be programmed with HPTuners or EFI Live but even with PASSKEY disabled they won't initiate until they get a signal via data from the BCM that tells the PCM to start, and the BCM won't send it until it sees the ignition switch cycle properly. I had that issue with my buddies L32 a couple years ago and we got so sick of it's erratic behavior we ran it with an L67 7977 PCM. I had a lot of time into that bastard! In the end I repinned the PCM plugs on an F-Body L36 harness and added the tranny, , MAP and Boost solenoid so it would fit the car the way I wanted it too.

HVAC module, radio, DIC, airbag equipment, RKE, etc etc etc

They're not talking about the VATS key, they're talking about Passkey 3 or whatever number it was on when the 3900 came out. The newer cars required the BCM to communicate with the PCM/ECU in order to have all systems go. If you take out that link between the PCM and the BCM then the car will be disabled. The thing with the newer systems is that the VIN gets communicated between each system, and if there's no match or if there's an issue then the security is triggered. Everything nowadays is controlled by it. Speedo, odometer, fuel pump, etc. and one small hiccup, the whole car is stranded. You may have to have the BCM and the PCM and bridge that to make it work with your 95's electronics.

one of your biggest headaches is going to be the firewall pass throughs for the harness I'm pretty sure you will not be able to make it weather tight as GM changed the pass through size an xxx shape to accommodate almost twice as many wires as older cars. you also may well get stuck keeping the BCM as most modern Obd2/CAN bus security and anti theft systems depend on a security handshake between the computers. you can shove anything into anything depending on how big your bottle of aspirin is....let us know how it goes. Regards, James

If I can rebuilt a 3900 for $600 and get the transmission for $80 what would I have to do to make it work Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

3900 has exactly nothing to do with the 3800. Literally zero things in common besides the fact that they are both engines.

Yup I know lol that's what did when I changed to the cutlass block and Transmission Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Wiring seems easy tuning isn't a big deal since it's OBD2 and I have rebuilt axles at the shop before. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

3900 should be an easy drop in I know it's the 3800 combined with the 3400. With a little different internal setup with the heads. I wanna go with the Gas model not the flex fuel(waaaayyyyy to much work in that) but if I build it I'm gonna make it better than factory specs like my 3100, and this time max out the valve sizes. Then after it's ready gonna do a full XADO treatment on the Engine and Tranny. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

3.9 should physically bolt in