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Did a search on car-parts.com and found 2 local yards. Went to the one close to me. They had one out of a 94 SE 4 door. So thankfully I was able to grab the part # off mine and the junkyard one. The one I picked up is a part number higher on the spring rate info list on the old w-body page! Any who it had 100k on the car. Spring looked good. Still has the rubber ends attached and no damage. Thank you for the spring rate chart as well. Very helpful information.

Looking for a mono leaf composite/fiberglass spring in good condition. Preferably FE3 for a 95 Regal.

I'm sure this had been touched on but i can't find it. I got a 92 Z34 with a sagging ass. Not sexy at all. I was looking on ebay and saw what looks like 2 different pads. White ones by Moog and black ones by Loctite. Are they different designs of the same item or different functions. I wanna get back to original height but also noticed the ends of the leaf seems to be wearing. I did find some mention of Flex-form. Anybody know the ratio info on the springs in case i go that route?

If you got the Monroe quick strut it includes the mount, bump stop, and dust boot. Make sure you order new mounts and new boots if you didn’t get the quick strut. This is an easy job. Should take about 3 beers per side. Make sure you you use a torque wrench to button it back up. Failing that use Dutch specs. Good-in-tite !…. You should pick up a set of GM manuals off eBay or the Haynes is also alright. Goes along way to bend the learning curve of wrenching on your own. Beware of you tube videos. They often show ways to do things quickly but are also often unsafe. https://www.ebay.com/itm/234408462032?fits=Year%3A1989|Model%3ARegal|Make%3ABuick&hash=item3693d546d0:g:fA4AAOSwq05h~v75&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAA8KLjskI1KefgzmHoJ%2BfbE%2FE2HAfyHVEn8XUV%2FpeVwfce4j4f7mVebCvTGF3J8XzepiXl0Tj4GdCveWv8NaWc4nXeHVdwfyaHA%2F6YvfWczU21LWGwke%2B4r%2FvJC2XLPgrh7kxo8%2F5N%2B8kL5y3ifzigbwJx9xQEW%2BKFEGUNvO%2FJmznb%2Br%2FHqVsGH5dgI1lhbM567O92JB4if0SRuj8XTF2om6NjApclOjR96w7hjYoe9y%2BT8nIzN8tlSEGqhocGOfT1mpYBdsuZdt%2BnXqzF8i%2FCAjy3leaOlj72t9YGLw2yzGtIGPH2Xusmdzd0iTcaf0DENA%3D%3D|tkp%3ABFBMouy9jtNg

Define *noise* crickets chirping, the lumberjack chopping wood in the trunk/ the dead body you just ran over? There are 4 basic shock manufacturer to choose form Gabriel Monroe KYB Sachs all are good brands 2 of the 4 offer a basic shock as well as their premium shock KYB (for this platform) do not offer a variable dampening design shock. KYB excel G Monroe & Gabriel & Sachs do Monore offers monro-matic (basic shock) Sens-a-trac & OE Spectrum, Reflex (premium) Gabriel offers Guardian (basic) & Velocity sensitive technology VST Ultra G-Force (premium) Sachs might be hard to find now go to each ones website to get the info on what each has to offer

no way to really check till you get it under the car. From what I've seen is... 92-96-ish cars seem to get it worse then others, of course that's not always a given. My 90' Grand Prix is still fine at 150k, my 92' Z34 was sagging like crazy when I got it at 85k. my 93' Z34 sagged really bad too. You can do rear shocks all you want but might help for a week you'll be back to square one in short order.

I closed your other 2 threads on this topic, this seemed to be the most current so I left it. Please, you don't need to create a new thread, it makes it very difficult to figure out what you've actually done or not done to your car. But anyhow, 20-od years on the spring rates don't mean a hell of a lot. I'd wager that there is a better then average chance the spring you got from a 94' is no better then what you have. The first 3 letters are the spring rate, the digits are GM Part number. Assuming the spring is good (It probably isn't) any difference you'll notice will be a effect of it riding properly rather then a different spring rate.

Closing this thread as it is redundant: Current thread here: http://www.w-body.com/topic/55302-found-a-fiberglass-monoleaf-a-few-questions/

Lots of information here: http://www.w-body.com/topic/55302-found-a-fiberglass-monoleaf-a-few-questions/?do=findComment&comment=1226164

Damn dude. No reason to get all bent out of shape over it.

Why do you start an entirely new thread instead of updating the existing thread? This is the third thread about the SAME TOPIC. Anyone looking for rear-spring info is going to have to search through two additional threads to find your complete history of this project. Any way for a moderator to combine these three threads into one? http://www.w-body.com/topic/55259-going-to-fix-the-saggy-rear-end/ http://www.w-body.com/topic/55242-changing-rearmono-leaf-spring/

Spring is a RDJ 17984227. My old spring was a RDH 17984226. Not sure what the first 3 letters mean. Can anyone tell me what the 3 letters mean? Just curious. Thank you.

I actually had my local mechanic guy find and fix it. I had zero idea what was wrong once I did the tune-up and nothing changed. Kinda freaked out and had it repaired. Glad I did though. It runs like a new car now!

I'm thinking spring grade would be determined first by vehicle weight, secondly by handling package/sport model. My 4 door Regal had an RFL spring, second to the top of the FE3 scale.

im thinking they got the fe3 to go with the 3800. kinda like montes and luminas got f41

Hmm, I'll have to check it. The monoleaf is shot regardless, but it would be interesting to know if it was.

don't be so sure on that......a friend on my fb has a 96 regal 4 door. his still has the rpo tag and it was fe3. telltale sign would be a 34 mm front sway

Which engine and what caused your misfire problem? Always trying to learn here.

FE1 was softer, the spring and the helper things hold the weight, not the struts. If it's sagging it's a fatigued spring.

GM told me it's the FE3 spring via my VIN#. Given that there are 15 different FE3 springs (stiff to stiffer), (see post #3 http://www.w-body.com/topic/55211-seeking-monoleaf-spring/ ) that may not be the whole story. Of the two I have, the stiffer one is about 1/32 inch thicker. I expect each of the 15 different springs has a different load (lbs.) rating, so how do Flexform & Birchmont compare? Obviously not all FE3s are the same. But how much do they differ? GM advised me to change the struts with a set that were OEM or better. They told me unless the spring is damaged somehow then it's more than likely the softer struts. I've inspected the monoleaf and have not found any damage. So hopefully the GM tech is correct. Will find out once the struts are changed. I may be rejecting conventional board wisdom, but how do struts change body ride height? My new (last fall) Monroe Sensatrac struts exert about 10 lbs. positive piston pressure each. Not much. I thought all (99% +) body weight was supported by the springs. If a temp. ride height improvement (rubbing tires) was the short term goal, boosting the spring seats might do the job. This would mean thicker pucks (homemade from nylon block?) at the spindles, or as some have posted, a combination of the glued-on rubber pads with the nylon pucks.

My Cutlass convertible had the FE3...I loved the KYB GR-2 struts I put on it, and they did raise the rear a bit.

1st gen W's sag because of the way the rear suspension was designed. The sagging would not be much of a problem if the shocks were in a spring setup. Sadly that is not the case. Long story short, the best way to get the car sitting level is to convert to coil overs.

You pick out the springs, and they're whatever weight you want.

According to the Addco website this is the part number for the swaybar. Hopefully it's correct! If not then they offer a refund if you send it back. I don't know if the picture is the actual product.I found another listing on Amazon and it says it fits.... https://www.amazon.com/Addco-474-Sway-Bar-Kit/dp/B000CFDGFO

quote name="Imp558" post="1224710" timestamp="1473701600"] Hate to say it because I know you're a purist but for less you can convert over to the coil springs assuming you're planning on buying struts anyway. How does the ride on coil over compare to stock? I've always been nervous of riding like lumber wagon

Hate to say it because I know you're a purist but for less you can convert over to the coil springs assuming you're planning on buying struts anyway.

I did not think it was douchey either. Doing it right the first time is usually preferred over doing it several times to get it right. When. Using recycled parts you never know how much life is still left in it. Somethings just need to be replaced with new.

I didn't perceive anything douchey from your post

What's your mono leaf gonna cost you?

I want to start charity to provide belts to inner city youth. It breaks my heart to see them walking around with their pants around their knees because their family can't afford to buy new ones that fit properly. Sounds like your on a good path with your rear suspension, did you look at the coilover conversion? You can set the ride height anywhere you want.

My regal was an L36 car. If it would have had the 3.1 I wouldn't have bought the car and likely wouldn't be a member here. As for different weight springs with engine choice maybe another member like Manic would know but that's a plausible theory.

Did the regal have a different motor than the 3.1? Just curious because the difference in engine weight GM could have used higher rate springs in the front end of the regal. Just my random thoughts....

1994 CS DOHC in junk yard, FE3. JY charges $50 for rear leaf, $50 front sway bar. Want?

Nice resource - thanks!! Can that be a sticky somewhere here...or maybe it is??

Holy shit!

You're welcome. GnatGoSplat here compiled that info and much more on the old site. If you crop that link down to http://www.w-body.com/oldsite/you may find more stuff that interests you.

Thank you mfewtrail - that's a wealth of info, plus the SPID code page. Interesting that there were so many springs available, even in one category. Much appreciated.

http://www.w-body.com/oldsite/spring-codes.html

This is badASS! Not to sound dumb, but is the for sure replacement for the monoleaf, specifically including say, my '92 Z???? Because I would love to do the same.

Sweet!! You know who to get ahold of to help ya Yeah, 2 slammed CS are better than 1 slammed CS!!!

Nice write up man. Cant wait to do this in the spring.

I will if Ken comes down early enough with the hardware and mounts.. im offering him a good 282 for the hardware, mounts, front 3.4 bar and mounts..

The progressive rate will probably give a bit better ride quality.

Well, let me address this.. BMW uses a strut design like some Japanese and Ford Vehicle which require adjustable upper strut mounts to change camber/caster. Our rears are camber adjusted via either cam bolts or just slotting the struts... Therefore we dont need out CO kits to adjust our angles, our vehicle can already do that. Now in the fronts, Caster/Camber should first be corrected via a cradle shift. If shifting the cradle cant correct camber, then elongating the upper strut mounting holes is the PROPER method. Oh, and if a cradle shift cant correct the caster (as in the cradle is aligned right but caster is still out) then you fucked up a suspension component. Once again, no need for adjustable mounts! Tell the Beemer snobs to fuck off, swallow a granade and die. Just laugh when you say your homemade COs help your big boat outhandle their expensive sports sedans Yes, as you can tell, I have Beemers and their snobby ass owners.. Hell, my CS has more options than most beemers come with

So I have decided to upgrade and fix my saggy ass. Talked to flex a form about a rear monoleaf. Going to replace the spring with a lower ride height than stock. Don't want to lower the car, just have it sit level. I have ordered a addco 7/8" rear swaybar also. So hopefully with these repairs and newer struts my ass will be all tight and not saggy.

You actually found Addco rear sway bar? I'd been looking for one for a while, last I knew they were not making them. So you ordered matching front springs to lower 7/8" so that front and rear match? Am I missing something here?