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I swapped out the fuel injectors with reman Rochesters, but the no-start problem was likely caused by the frayed pigtails on this injector harness. I replaced the harness and pigtails and the car fired right up.

I got it off and getting the new one In now as I write this. NEVER AGAIN lol. I used this to get it loose, slowly hitting it with a mallet. It fit perfect in between the two bolts lol

The booster has to twist counter-clockwise from under the hood to release. (Clockwise from the driver's seat.) There's a lock-tab that supposedly has to be pushed, and then the booster twists and falls off. I made a tool to turn the booster, and brutalized it enough that I never did deliberately "release" the lock tab, which I couldn't get to anyway. Tool is ordinary steel channel, (angle-iron, or even flat steel bar would work as well.) three holes drilled. Center hole tapped, ran a flange-head bolt into it, cut off the excess threads from the rear, and welded the M-F'r into place. Drop the tool over the master-cylinder retaining studs. A long-handle ratchet and socket on the bolt head is enough to turn the booster. Close-up of the tapered slot that the lock-tab engages. Good luck getting to it. Which is why I just cranked the booster enough to pop it free. As you can see from the shape of the slot, you have to turn that side of the booster "down" to free the lock-tab on the booster from the bracket on the firewall. Lock-tab is easier to see on the "new" booster, left. Hangs straight down from the lower right rivet, in the photo. In this photo, the boosters are rotated 90 degrees, the lock-tabs should be horizontal, not vertical. I replaced the booster on both my '92 and my '93 Luminas. The brake-light switches at the brake pedal were different. Had lots of trouble getting the '92 re-adjusted. Had to completely remove the switch and re-set the position, install it, and THEN it self-adjusts to whatever it's supposed to be. Took me hours to figure it out. The '93 was "improved" and I don't remember it being any particular problem. As alluded to earlier...I'm convinced that 80%+ of the complaints of poor brakes on first-gen W-bodies is due to faulty boosters that only partially work. There's still some "assist", but not nearly what it's supposed to be. And the boosters pass all the usual tests, they're just under-powered. Replacing the boosters on my two cars made a HUGE difference in the braking power.

Interesting. But the coupe 3.4s offered Getrag 284s? I would think one or more snuck off the line.

I can't say I've ever experienced that one. I think I have a stack of air filters I got on closeout from rockauto years ago, with how little I drive my z34 now should be a lifetime supply. You could get a piece of expanded metal, chicken wire or some sort of metal mesh and put it over the opening. Or hell even liberate the metal screen from your destroyed air filter and cut it to fit over the opening on the airbox

Those are some crafty little bastards, I caught one in a glue trap inside a locked Firebird. No idea how it got in there. I wonder if you could scavenge that mesh off the eaten filter to put around the end of the intake to keep them from getting to the next one? I went with a drop in reusable KN filter years ago in my `94 Cutlass and am still working my way through the cleaning kit. I didnt think it would have held up as good as it has after at least 10 years.

the tranny outta my tgp only had 5k on it, after 4-5 rebuilds that didnt last (so the story goes). I have a chery picker in my yard, bought it for $180 from a place called C.A.P when ya pull it all apart, pull the drain plug, toss kerocine all thru the top end of the motor, might even want to put the plug back in, put 5 quarts into the crank, turn in over by hand a few times and drain it again. magnet on the drain plug to get all the metal outta the motor. Good luck