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Great video. Been anguishing over this job but video convinced me I can do it. Shop estimated $400 in labor to do it. I’m all over it now. Question. Would it not be a bit easier to route the belt over the back pulleys first? More room to fight it on the front pulleys.

You helped me out big time 2 years ago when i changed my belt and components on my 95 vert. Just want to say thanks again and also great video. Thumbs up my man.

There's a video on youtube that is really a shortened version of mine, but the same procedure. It's the video I used to do the job the first time, along with a lot of reading on here. What that video lacked, IMO, is all the little details. How to remove the steering pump, how to get to top dead center, how to "transfer the marks" to the new belt, how the hydraulic tensioner and pulley work together (because you assemble it by feel...can't see back there). It also shows how I struggled to do some things, which is normal. You don't need to be an expert to do this job. You just need to pay attention to the details. It's a long video, but the people who really want to attempt this will eventually end up watching every minute of it. I'm honestly glad it helped you decide not to attempt it. I think the video I watched originally didn't give me enough detail to make that decision so I went for it. Had you only watched that video, you might've gotten in over your head and nobody on here would want that for you.

I need help understanding this concept please. So lets just say, for shits and giggles, that the timing belt and all associated pulleys and components would NEVER wear out, but the timing chain would continue to stretch/wear normally. Are you saying that the cam timing would eventually be off because of that? I think I've talked myself into answering that question as a "yes".

I would consider 150,000 miles (240,000 kilometers) a definite candidate for a timing chain. I've had LA1/LH0 engines apart that had 170,000 kilometers or so on them & the timing chain was stretched to the point where the cam timing was late by near 10 crank degrees. The LQ1 engine has a tensioner on the heel side of the chain so the chain won't necessarily be loose & rattle, when one manually moves the dampener back & forth one doesn't feel & see that customary *loose gap* that one will notice with the pushrod engines that do have a worn chain & the chain allows the crank to move for a few degrees without moving the cam. *the LQ1 has an advantage that the pushrod engines do not....one can get away with the original timing chain (assuming it does not break later somewhere down the road) when doing the cam belt. If one does the cam timing *by the book* one resets the cam cog positions to the crank *straight up* centerline, even tho the chain may be stretched the cams will be in proper time with the crank.

I don’t think it’s as much of a concern if you’re not doing the timing belt. I think it’s more that things won’t line up as originally marked.

What mileage is considered to be high mileage? I have 153,000 on the International and 114,000 on the STE. Should I be concerned about the timing chain yet?

Thank you for posting this video. After looking at it I can now safely say I will never attempt this job on my own. That's why these videos are so valuable. They not only provide a first hand practical look at how it's done, they also serve to give you a beforehand choice on whether or not you want to even attempt the task. I'm out. Kudos to Memphis Man for freeing up the huge part of a day of my life for me.

I had never thought of that, but that’s probably exactly what happened with my cutlass when I had it. I did the timing belt first time by the marks and it was fine, but then after a top and swap and some other issues I could never get a time right by the marks, even though I know I had them lined up. It makes perfect sense though. One of these days I’m going to have to do the 92, I might have to save this video but hopefully it’s not for a few years

Well, one does if they intend on doing the job *by the book*. There's nothing wrong in doing the job in this manner IF the engine is not a high mileage unit. The timing chain does stretch, when it does that throws off the cam timing making it late. If one does not release the cam sprockets to *reset* them to the *new* position when rotating the crank for #1 top center & locking them down you will end up with the same late cam timing you started with.

Awesome. I was under the impression you needed the cam-holder tools for the swap. Great vid!

Moved! Thanks!

Yes, absolutely okay with it. Hopefully it'll help someone out.

I finally got around to checking this thread out. Thank you for making this video! We don't get all that much technical information anymore. Are you okay with me moving this to the FAQs?

This is great, I got to see the red Cutlass up close and watching this tonight! Ive read about how to change it out but I`m a visual sort of guy and this will help enormously for when I have to change mine out in a few years.