Leaderboard

For the long axle, what you want is the inner bar shaft to be 32" long. For the Cherokee shaft, one end needs a c-clip slot cut in on one end, otherwise the splines are good to go, the other end however, has to be cut down maybe a half inch and also the splines are too thick, need to be re-splined to fit the inner spline of the joint. Basically, if you were to disassemble a passenger side CV shaft from a 4T65E car like a GP GT (4T65E-HD axles are different), replace the inner axle shaft with the longer re-splined one and reassemble. Once I have it done(correctly), I'll post up some pictures and measurements. As for progress, I finished the wiring, installed the trans with a new HTOB and .20" spacer, dropped the engine back in and got them bolted together. Kind of on the final stretch. Wiring - I haven't verified the following yet but will update when I know for sure this is 100% correct. - As for the wiring, the only wires that are required to be spliced together are the fat purple and yellow wires from the 4T65E harness that plugs into the shift mechanism on the trans. That, and the green & orange wires need to be wired into the reverse switch on the F23. Otherwise in order to make it work like it came manual from the factory, you need to splice in some other wires as well. You need to wire the gray, green & black wires to the ground wire. So far all I've been able to test is the reverse light switch, which works as it should now. Here is the diagram for my 2002 GT: Based on this diagram, I wired the PPL and YEL wires(pin G & E from C1) together, ORN & LT GRN(pins B and F from C1) are the reverse switch wires, then GRY, BLK/WHT (pins C & D from C2) together with LT GRN & BLK(pins C & D from C1) all together. This *should* be an easy way to trick the PCM into thinking its in 2nd gear all the time and so no funny stuff with RPMs, and the BCM to think it's in park so that the trunk release and alarms and all that will still work. Also, very important: If you are using the stock rear manifold, it won't work without some modification. The crossover flange will interfere with the shift cables. You'll need to cut the tack welds on the back of the flange so you can rotate it so that it's not in the way of the shift cables. It will be close to the cables so I'm putting in a spare piece of sheet metal as a heat shield. Before: After modification: