Leaderboard

I have more pictures if needed.

Ok, I have some status updates! I was able to get the lines out without cutting them with only the front up on jack stands. Once all of the plastic brackets were removed and the lines popped out of them I rotated the lines one at a time so they were pointed out the passenger side of the car. That rotation lines up the part of the line that extends into the master cylinder such that it could slide down far enough to see from underneath the car on the inside of the wheel well. Then I popped it over to the outside of the wheel well and was able to pull the whole line out the drivers side wheel opening. I had to rotate it a few times to snake it out but it came out with no problem. My first suggestion (however obvious it may be) to anyone trying this...have a glass jar or tin can standing by when you disconnect the lines in the back by the fuel filter to catch whatever brake fluid is still in the lines. When it's done draining cut a thick plastic bag down the middle and put the corner of the bag over the end of the line and strap it on with a rubber band. this will keep the brake fluid from dripping all over your garage floor while you're swinging the line around getting it out. Now onto some things that I've learned...first, the master cylinder is labeled which line goes where, which is nice to know but sort-of irrelevant because the lines are keyed by way of different fittings at the ends. At the master cylinder, one rear line has a 1.0 thread, the other has a 1.5 thread. Remove them carefully because you'll need to re-use the 1.0 thread fitting! In the rear by the fuel filter one line has a 'male' fitting, the other has a 'female' fitting. Next, I learned that bubble fittings are...not very popular, at least not 'round here! The third store I went to did finally have 5' long lines with bubble fittings and a pair of 'unions' (to join 2 lines together). The lines I'm replacing are about 10' long so 4 of them should get us back to the fuel filter. But now we have some decisions to make. because of the keying of the original lines you're going to have to make at least a couple of your own flairs and none of the stores I went to had a bubble flair kit. I wound up ordering one from Summit but you could get through this using double-flairs to join the lines. Just plan it out and change the fittings before you start bending the lines. The only problem I've run into so far was that the bolt that holds the front-most plastic bracket in place broke as soon as I tried to turn it. That whole area seems to be very prone to rust! But I was able to cut off the rest of the stud and drill it out. then I por-15's the area. I'm still waiting for my flair kit so I've only got one line bent into shape and I haven't installed it yet. I've got lots of pictures I can post if anyone is interested, but here's a couple showing the progress: here's a before: some sanding done, you can see the broken stud: Broken stud cut off and drilled out (that stud was some Tough metal!): front half prepped for paint: and front half ready to go:

Good; does your cutlass have a factory splice in the rear brake lines under the car near the fuel filter like my regal does? I am thinking you could disconnect the two lines there and at the abs and pull them out. The two lines that run from the fuel filter area to back should not be a problem pulling out. Then all you would need is a set of factory brake lines that are not rusted.