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Went out in my PJs and did the required reverse donuts..lol

Decided to finally tackle my climate control issues in my 96. Lately the modes been only blowing on my feet and windshield. So took the glovebox out and snooped around a bit. Replaced the blend actuator. Works like a champ now. Have air in every position!. Also the blower motor was making a loud noise. Pulled the blower and there were Culver’s coupons stuck in the cage…..lol. Once those were removed the airflow is amazing and quiet. So far today’s been a productive day on the GP. Just need to find a way to repair that darn drivers window issue.

Interestingly enough history says the first Buick was built in 1902. This changes everything for me as a self proclaimed historian.

They must have swapped in a 3800 being that's a 1898 model Buick.....lol Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Hi everyone. My name is Wendy ~ I'm somewhat new here to the W-body (this is my 1st post anyways) and I could use some advice with a problem that I'm having with my 1995 Lumina. (I'm a new W-body owner as of April 2007 and know very little about these cars and the problems that they're potentially known for.) Any information that you might have to pass along will be greatly appreciated. Here's my dilema ~ It appears to be some kind of pass key/security issue, or so I would assume. On ocassion (and more often than not) upon sticking the key into the ignition to start the car, the dash/dummy lights will come on and you can hear the fuel pump engage but I get no turn over whatsoever. Not even as much as a clicking or ticking sound ~ which indicates to me that this is not a battery issue. Also, as long I allow the car to sit for a period of time (10-20 mins) before trying to restart, she usually starts right up. With winter coming, I don't want to be left in the cold with two kids in the backseat waiting and wondering whether or not it will or wont start and quite truthfully this is really starting to get frustrating, as it's made me late to Dr's appointments and a few other important appointments! I've tried cleaning my ignition keys with rubbing alcohol and using a cotton swab dipped in alcohol to clean the contacts in the ignition thinking that they were dirty and not getting a good connection. This did not seem to help. Another note to add here ~ At times (however, not always) once the car starts, the Security Light comes on and will stay illuminated until the car is shut off. I'm not sure if this is realted, but it may very well be (it's logical.) If nothing else, it may change the course of action that needs to be taken to remedy this problem ~ Therefore it's worth mentioning. I purchased this car with an aftermarket remote car start/keyless entry previously installed. (I bought the car from my cousin who owned and drove it for 4 years. He said that the remote start and keyless entry were on the vehicle when he purchased it.) It appears to be of a generic store bought model with no brand name, so sorry that I can't elaborate more here if that information should be of importance. The remote itself is grey in color, shaped like a boom-a-rang, and has 3 buttons ~ 2 small dark grey ones and a larger green one. (Doubt that's helpfull, but dammit, I'm trying.) My husband was able to locate a small toggle switch under the dash near the emergency brake pedal that dissables the remote start. The remote start does work whenever the car isn't giving me problems upon start up (we just replaced the batteries) but the remote wont start the car if the key wont start the car, even if you take the key out of the ignition first. We've tried dissabling the remote start via the toggle switch under the dash and then restarting when the key gives us a problem and that doesn't seem to make a difference either. I'm thouroughly baffled and have no idea what can be done to fix this. I'm wondering if having my ignition changed would be helpful or if I should just completely remove the aftermarket remote start and hope that my problem magically disapears. I'm assuming that the pass key/security system has already been bypassed otherwise I wouldn't think that the remote start would function at all. Then again.. I could be wrong.. What do I know? I'm just a girl that doesn't like to get her fingernails dirty. I thank you in advance for any suggestions that you might have for me. Have a great day and thanks for reading my post. Wen313

why would buy a rusty, dented up shell with then intent of rebuilding or putting in rebuilt motor? You would be better off starting with a car in rust free/dent free shape.

Problem found: I took the light switch from the dash and the contacts looked pretty bad. Brush them up and cleaned them best I could- problem solved. Hope it helps someone.

lolol cant say i havent seen that before. My car used to do the no start thing and a new key solved the whole problem

I swear I should just go back to my old username. Even noobs call me MonteCarloChick still Anywho, hi! It used to be Cary and I. Then she left for gaming purposes. But if you stick around longer than the typical 1 week stay that other broads seem to do, then woo hoo! And yes, my car has the same issues yours has. I was going to disable the VATS, but I just switched to my spare key that was barely used and it seems to have remedied the problem for now. Now it only doesn't start about 10% of the time

Rob?!? Do anything for me?!? Yeah, and the cheeks of my ass might grow together.. HA HA!! He's my brother.. My younger brother at that. I used to be bigger than him and the poor bastard sustained more ass beatings than I care to shake a stick at. Pay backs are a bitch, hey? I asked him to fix my turn signal issue too.. He said he would do that because it's more important than the pass key/security issue but WTF good are working turn signals when the car wont start or run?? LMAO!!

LOL, your such an ass hahaha, and it's your own sister!

Fuck no, Smokey aint got time fo that shizzle nizzle I gots a barn to clean out and some 40s to drink !! I don't work on Chevies!!!

Rob, I don't know why you just don't meet up with her at your guy's parent's place, and figure out the problem with your code reader?!? Wouldn't that make life a bit more simple? LOL

Yes Wendy my diagnostic tool will tell you VATS module or PASSKEY error Vehicle Anti Theft System its an orange wire in your column... DISCOSTUDD anyone ??

she is a she LOL sorry i said kid I meant girl !!!

I would start by checking your VATS wire. Look under your dash for a orange or black wire. It should be cut and on the side where the wire goes to the cars computer (rather then to the ignition) check to see if there is a resistor soldered in there. If there is and it doesnt seem loose then try replacing it with the new one. Measure the pellet on your key with a multimeter in case the one in there is not the right resistance. O and it looks like nichole (montecarlochick) finally has some competition on here hahaha!!

That key is in a bypass module. It is only reading resistance when the brain of the remote starter asks it to. Otherwise, the person cannot just enter a Home Depot cut key and start the car. But... you can program the bypass module to send the proper resistance at all times. Never done in my bay, unless the customer specifically requests it (and why would you want to request it anyways?) BTW, like I said, the VATS may be bypassed depending on how the remote starter was hooked up. If you still want to retain the VATS with a remote starter, you use a relay, with the proper resistance value in line, along with the remote starter. Thats the way I do it, I never totally bypass the VATS, unless it is a pre-existing problem.

The remote start should already be bypassed... I know a guy who doesn't have his bypassed and he has to leave a key in the car all of the time if he wants to start it remotely! I would say check the key for shits and giggles, then start to look into the remote start system. Something may be going flaky...

Isn't there a writeup somewhere about disabling the PassKey system? But...I'd have to wonder if that would leave the remote start DOA because I'm willing to bet she wants that feature. (At least I love mine!)

I'd take a DMM and check the resistance of the resistor pellet in the key.

I had a similiar problem with my first gp. I thought it was the starter at first soo i changed it. That didnt fix the problem so i tried a few other things that didnt fix it either. Eventually i took it to a dealer where they told me that the little chip in my key was loose and it wouldnt make good contacts with the ignition at times. I bought a new key (which was expensive for a damn key) and that fixed my problem. I dont know if this is gonna help but its worth a shot.

Thanks for the link digitaloutsider, i'm willing to bet thats it, im going to fix it once it warms up.

I say i still think it is the motor . The motor and switch are probably fine. The motor was probably replaced from a salvage yard and was disconnected when the wipers were up. Or the wiper motor that was on there went bad and they didnt position the wipers correct when they put in the new motor. make sure the switch is in the off position. Disconnect the motor. Put the wipers in the rest position and reinstall the motor tnat should be all

my thought is that someone took them off of the gear thing when in the up position to do something, and when they put the arms back on it had cycled back to resting. dunno if that makes sense (or applies to our cars)

Do you mean the guy I know has the key in the bypass module? If so, no it's actually in the ignition whoever installed crap in his car really rigged it up