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https://web.archive.org/web/20161019020737/http://www.rodneydickman.com/n36.html I did find that.

Same, I'd rather put that money down for brand new OEM style tailights.

I thought this was the W-Body old folks home...

I have an f40 trans from an 07 g6 GT as well as a 2006 monte carlo lz9 3900 and will be doing a swap over this winter I will update with details as it goes along

So I don't know if anyone here has seen this guy on social media before but he is making some seriously cool stuff with Firebirds, Camaros, & Fieros. Custom Bluetooth LED sequential taillights. Seriously talented. Worth looking into. https://www.youtube.com/@bravendirk5122 I emailed him and asked if he would be interested in designing something for 88-96 GPs and here's what he said. "If there is enough demand for the product, I will design it. I'd need at least 20 people that are willing to pre-pay 20% of the final product cost, before I would be able to design the product. The final cost for a Plug and Play, Bluetooth / RGB Neopixel kit would be around $460.00 USD." I think for what he does it would be worth it. I think it's super cool. It may be a long shot but I just wanted to mention it here and hope it can happen. Anyone interested?

Yes and no Its cool if you were building a show car for SEMA but I prefer the factory look when it comes to most 1st gens.

Interesting topic as I was thinking alot about body stiffness for my 3800SC Cutlass. 2 thoughts on stiffness 1. I believe the inner rockers, at least on a 1st gen are major structural component in body stiffness, as it was a large area of focus when GM build the convertibles. 2. I had some thoughts this summer to add "frame rail connectors" basically connecting the front "frame" (the portion where the front subframe connects to the body) and run a 2x3 piece of steel to the rear foot panel/front of the fuel tank area and tie into the trailing arm mount areas. I think it would add a TON of structure to the chassis. But I decided for now to forgo the project as it would be a large endeavour to do this. Interesting to know your thoughts as to why and if you had a plan for stiffness?

Probably, I was 7 when @Psych0matt joined

So last week I bit the bullet and bought a reman ECM from AutoZone, (They’re partnered with a company called Blue Streak Electronics who remans a lot of OBD1 stuff), and now my Grand Prix runs perfectly now finally. I should have bought it a long time ago but I was afraid that wouldn’t be the problem. Happy to have this car on the road now! Runs and drives almost perfect. Only issue I ran into now is the cruise control cuts out sometimes. One step at a time though. Thank you everyone for the help!

Im just here for the 3800 swaps.

You can use the 282 master for a 284 transmission. The only difference is the size of the internal piston. I can't remember if its smaller or larger, but it'll only make for a slightly shorter or longer pedal throw.

no, he means what he said. For whatever ends the factory clutch hydraulics on the 284 equipped cars has a odd accumulator between the master and slave cylinder still to this date not sure WHY as they function fine without it. I assume it was so GM could get the clutch feel to their liking. In my experience once air gets into it its damn near impossible to get it out. And you need a special tool to release that quick connect between the master and slave. I have one, don't ask me what its called or where I even got it cause I don't know. That said. pull the inspection cover over the transmission where the slave cylinder attaches and observe operation. But It could be a bad master, or slave I suppose. stick your head under the dashboard and observe the boot where the master cyl rod comes in and see if its leaking around the boot.

I've seen that happen from overheated/warped clutch discs.

Hello i am possibly swapping a getrag 284 into my car, and curious what people are doing for clutch hydraulics. Rockauto lists both a master and a slave but no inventory. I know the clutches and TOB are different and the push vs pull However the slave cylinder is always pushing out The lever it connects to inside the transmission is just different in their action to engage the clutch I have a known hood setup from a 282. They look almost indentical (minus the vacuum ball in the hydraulic line). has anyone tried 282 parts? If not, anyone have a source for them? thanks!

Great work! I linked that in the comment section on Blacktree's upload for future reference.

So i kind of take all of that back. 92-95 regals with the 3800 don’t seem to have them. I just found a bunch of pictures of 91s with the 3800 that have them! If they are designed to help promote crumpling in a collision, the only thing I can think of is that there is more clearance somewhere in the engine bay with the 3800 series 1 that they aren’t required.

If it regularly occurs below a specific fuel level, I'd start suspecting an issue with the fuel pickup inside the tank. Perhaps a cracked suction line that once you drop below a certain fuel level, it begins sucking air and isn't able to supply as much fuel as required? I’d expect something like that to show up on live data as reduced fuel pressure and a lean condition, but being intermittent, there might not be codes stored.

Not all 1st gen Ws have the rad support bars. My 88 and 89 Regals had them, as did my 92 Cutlass. Those cars had the 2.8, 3.1 and 3.4 respectively. My current 92 GS never had them. The holes are there...but they were never tapped for threads on the rad support end. It seems to have something to do with it being equipped with the 3800 series 1, as those are the only ones that never have them. 2.8, 3.1, 3100, 3.4 and 3800 series 2 equipped 1st gens coupe or sedan all seem to have them.

the 1st gen front ends are extremely strong. I just wish that they continued that same rigidity for the rest of the car. Primarily around the B pillar area and the rear end.

Of course. Aesthetics are always subjective, so by all means, to each their own. Just giving my impressions of them. A larger amount of smaller diodes may help a bit, but the real thing that's bugging me is the fact that there's nothing more to the lights than dotted LEDs that just go straight across the entire panel. It just gives off a cheap aftermarket or homemade look to me. There's no design or style what so ever to the layout of the dots which makes them look nothing like what the factory might have done back then had the technology existed. Like on the Fiero, if he could at least outline the outer edges with the defused "light bar" look that a lot of newer cars get from the factory, it would add some design interest to it. Take for example the original version of the G8 aftermarket LED tail lights vs. the newer ones that came out a couple years ago. Even the originals had a simple C shape outline of dotted LEDs for the parking lights portion, so it looked a lot closer to what the factory might have done had they gone LEDs. But the updated ones converted the C shape outline to the defused light bar look, which looks even better/more modern to me. I have several gripes with both designs, but both are definitely a step from the bicycle reflector looking factory lights.

I'm also a big fan of upgrading to LEDs wherever I can. But while I appreciate all the work Bravetech puts into his craft, the whole tail lights covered in "dotted" LEDs design looks really outdated to me. These last few years, I've been shocked and pleased to see companies putting out some pretty cool looking aftermarket taillights for all kinds of years/makes/models, even some pretty old ones. I'm especially a fan of the latest versions designed to look like the newest factory tail lights (with the LED light bars) for each respective vehicle. I like them so much that I bought a set as a Christmas gift for my sister and brother in law's '06 Tahoe (mostly so I could live vicariously through them since no company thinks an '03 Lexus ES is worthy of updated tail lights). Those are worth the money to me, as they really update the look of whatever vehicle you put them on. But the Bravetech designs just don't do it for me, and IMO, look worse than the factory lights.

I’m partial to stock lenses with LED bulbs. Really I just like LEDs. I think they’re cool and they look better than stock halogens. They especially look good on GM cars that have the turn signal that alternates with the side marker bulb. I did a full LED swap on my Sunfire with resistors and everything and to me the work is worth it for the look.

Yep..... OEM is original, if one wants to enter their vehicle in a *stock class* show, there can be no visual alterations or it would be deemed modified.

I do remember you! I feel like theres a bunch I forget rhe username until I see them then it all floods back

I'm having a hard time that I've been on this forum longer then some of you have been alive and I don't even consider myself old yet

You didn’t mention me but I definitely remember you

A friend helped me get the top up yesterday. She pushed the 'up' button while I manually lifted up the passenger side, keeping its progress even with the driver's side. Things went pretty smoothly, except the top was very hard to latch, and once we did get it latched, there's a gap at the top of the windshield, where daylight shows through. I climbed into the back seat to see if I could locate what had broken, but I couldn't see anything. I guess the next stop will be a trim shop for them to diagnose and fix the problem. I'm sure he'll want to put a new top on it, which I'm not totally opposed to. I've just got to take a look at my finances and see what's immediately affordable.

The Usual Three: Verify fuel pressure at prime, at idle, and under load. Most fuel pressure gauge assemblies have a push-button pressure release connected to crappy vinyl tubing. Route the tubing so it empties into a drain pan, then push the button while the engine is running. This simulates higher fuel demand if you can't check fuel pressure on the highway. Fuel pressure should remain steady even with fuel flowing down the pressure-relief tubing. TBI systems don't hold pressure when the pump stops running, but the other fuel injection styles should. How old is the fuel filter? Have you ever dumped a bottle of Chevron Techron Complete Fuel System Cleaner into the gas tank? (Recommended at every oil change.) How old are the usual “tune-up” parts and procedures? Inspect/replace plug wires, spark plugs. Use quality parts sourced from an authorized seller (NO COUNTERFEIT PARTS FROM AMAZON, EBAY, OR OTHER SKETCHY SELLERS!) Be sure the ignition coils will reliably fire a spark-tester calibrated for HEI when the coil is fully warm, and misted with water from a squirt-bottle. Cranking compression test of all cylinders while the spark plugs are removed. Verify EGR, PCV, EVAP, and Heated Air Intake (if used) systems for proper operation. Verify proper electronic spark advance. Replace old O2 sensors unless you can PROVE that they're working properly—old O2 sensors get lazy, they don't provide accurate data, but they do provide “data” that fools people into thinking they're “working”. Connect a scan tool (NOT a crappy “code reader”) and look for “codes”. More important, look at the data stream to verify EVERY sensor and computer output. Verify fuel trims during the time that the vehicle is not running properly. “Codes” have official diagnostic procedures that will be found in the service manual set for your vehicle. 1995 "OBD 1.5" is NOT a problem for any REAL scan tool.

Sticker code on the ECM doesn't matter, just use your current memcal in the new computer.

Just the fact that I know everyone you mentioned....

Hey Jay! over 11 years later I am still using your write up! links all still work! Thanks! -Jarek

I have all the other parts x2-3. Just no hydraulics. (Just realizing this). I’ll keep looking to source as well! Hoping they can stil be found

I’ve toyed with the idea of selling the gtp but I don’t think I could bring myself to let it go unless offered more than it’s worth.

which is about 2.1qts. I just use 2qts. GM synchromesh.

GM says 4.2 pints.

OK, killed the T/O bearing and switched the seals to the P/N you mentioned. How many quarts of Syncromesh? I'll do a search as well...

That clutch kit should come with a T/O bearing. Also, the output shaft seal should be a 2003N. Don't know where that part number came from. Also, just an FYI, match up those flywheels before you install the new one. I've had issues with them having the wrong number of teeth. Then you gotta pull everything back apart to change it out. What type of transmission fluid are you using?

like button don't work... I like this^^

Here's some good info on the detent system. Shows a 282, but it's the same thing between the 282 and 284 http://www.rodneydickman.com/n36.html http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum9/HTML/000008.html

Yes, please do. I would like to see the guts of one of these

I can post a step by step on how to split the case on a 284. It's pretty easy. I would like to atleast get the tools or know what kind of tools I need to service this trans. That way I can compare synchros to some I found that just might work. But I really need synchros from the 284 to compare.

the input shaft seal cannot be serviced separately. The major issue with them isnt always the seal leaking but moreso the sleeve itself cracks. I have a couple that have done so. Synchros are a pita and we need to find a supplier soon

FYI Timkin 2003N is a output shaft seal, not input shaft seal.

Still in New England? I remember meeting you about 12 years ago, haha.

You the guy that had the black 2dr Regal GS and ended up getting a black Firebird, or am I thinking of someone else?

I've got a 90 TGP with the 282 and it holds up great. Stock clutch won't be enough tho, so you definitely need an upgrade. Had to throw a stocker in when my Spec chucked a spring. Stock clutch starts slipping just after boost kicks in.

Cavs use a different 282 with different mounts

Matt Shantz has the LQ1/282 swapped car Baker did..... he seems impressed so far.

Venom has a complete setup minus the clutch, flywheel bolts. PM him aboot it. It comes with new hydraulics and axles. Sent from my Transformer TF101 using Tapatalk 2