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Good afternoon, new member here. Before this I was into the facebook world of groups until i stumbled upon this. Facebook is great and all but when it comes to needing technical help/date it starts to lack.  I currently have 3 Grand prix, one is a 1996 grand prix se that is lowered with cut springs in the front and custom coil overs in the rear. It has a customer 2.5 inch exhaust all the way back, 97 ecm upgrade so its able to be tuned on HP tuners, cold air, ported intake, and some nice plugs and wires. Thats the Summer time daily. Fun car, not fast but fun. Hence the screen name. now onto the other two. I have a 94 GP se I pulled out of a barn in WV back in 2022 with a buddy of mine. guy said it needed a fuel pump and that was it. I got it running in his yard, drove it on to the trailer and back 900 miles home. well after getting into the restoration I found that it had a stuck lifter. SO it got a new valve train. 100 miles later it developed a really bad rod knock. Then I got the idea of LS4 would be cool and im going to be pulling the engine lets manual swap it. Later i went on to buy a 91 gtp with a 5 speed. currently working on getting the fly wheel back from the machine shop and building engine mounts for the 5.3. its going to be fun when its done!   BUT this is where I need your help. my 94 did not come with power seats factory. I swaped the whole interior from tan to charcole from a donor car which I no longer have. In the manual it says the power wire is a orange wire with a black tracer. I cant not find that wire anywhere. now in the fuse box it has a solid orange wire coming out of it, probably a 10 gauge or so. I thought I found said orange wire but when I check it with my DVOM I cant  find continuity. Has someone installed power drivers seat in a 94 that didnt have one factory or does someone know where this pre wired in power wire would be? I would really like to use the factory equipment if I can.   Thanks guys look forward to hanging out here!

It took me 22 years but I finally did do that manual swap 😉

Yeah, I'm not sure what happened with the broken link. The Deboss garage link is basically the same strategy though. One removes the slave and manually actuates it in reverse to bleed the system. Thats all one needs to do. Its just awkward in the car with limited space to work.

Right idea...wrong procedure. Removing the plug wire from the coil creates an open circuit on the ignition secondary side.  An open circuit drives the voltage sky-high, which can cause insulation failure including inside the ignition coil. Find a way to GROUND the spark, which drops the voltage to zero, and causes no insulation stress.  In this case, if you remove the plug wire from the coil, connect a jumper wire from the coil terminal to engine ground.  THEN start the engine to see if that cylinder is contributing.   It's easier on a distributor than on a coil-pack.  A few small nails, blunted, and dabbed with silicone dielectric grease, slid BETWEEN the plug wire and plug boot (Don't puncture the insulation) so that the nails touch the metal spark-plug wire metal terminal; and a grounded INCANDESCENT test-light or jumper wire works wonders.  Start engine, touch test light or jumper wire to each nail in turn. Maybe you can sneak small nails into the coil-pack end of the plug wires.  I wouldn't be able to on my 3.4L Luminas, there's no room to work with the coil packs bolted to the front of the engine.     For the record...since you had an alternator failure, did you ever re-charge the battery?  Low battery voltage can cause all sorts of problems.

My rule of thumb is every 36 months, that will depend on where in the country you live, if you live in a higher humidity region flush the system more often. All brake fluid (glycol) with the exception of silcone based fluid is hygroscopic. Keeping the system clean is something that is generally overlooked by most vehicle owners. When you purchase replacement brake fluid & you open the container (or containers) to use it try to use most of if not all of what's in the container. Leaving a capped partially used unsealed container on the shelf is just as bad as what will happen to what's in the cars system. Humidity knows no bounds.