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Bueller? Bueller?

So folks a need a bit of assistance here. I made a post in the past and figured out my Mom's 95 Cutlass Supreme droptop needs a master cylinder. The brakes went to the floor once then they seemed to work, my brother has long since taken all keys to it his house.  By the way this car is a garage queen, it has likely about 35,000 miles on it. If it matters it has the 3.4 multicam v6 which I doubt. Will be honest I have not replaced a master cylinder since the early 80's. I am know I will need to bench bleed the master. I have questions I will bullet point to make it easy. 1) What is the best method to try to save the OEM master reservoir? Would prefer to keep the car as OEM look as possible. 2) Directions to bleeding the entire system. I have done so with 70's cars I am just unsure about cars of this vintage with ABS. 3) Anything I have over looked please school me. Details of which wheel to do in order would be great. Any hints of best dia of brake hose to obtain to put in a jar fluid is a huge plus.  This will be part of their christmas me making the Olds safe to drive again. What else can you get parents with everything? Manual labor alway works.  Thanks in advance for any all advice. Brock9334z      

Check where your positive battery cable goes to the fusebox on the drivers side under the hood. It is common for the nut to be loose or the connection to be dirty and cause all sorts of weird electrical issues 

I am trying to replace the solenoid in my car with the radio on for a good 30mins, confused about how the solenoid replacements works (see this post). Without getting the solenoid replaced, but finally being able to get the car out of park, I decided to start the car but it won't go. The dash started to flicker and can hear the relay ticking. Weird electronic glitches started to happen, like turning the signal would flicker the radio button lights. Feels like something is shorting out but can't tell and not electronically inclined. After trying to start the car a few more times, the radio wouldn't even come on anymore and I'm left with just relay ticking. I am assuming the battery is dead. Before charging the battery back up and trying again, I am looking for help to understand where the short might come from during my disassembly: - I took off the front console panel with the cigarette cable disconnected - I had to adjust the steering wheel tilt to take out the front console panel out. I know the multi-function switch is already wonky because I am not getting brake lights unless I pull the switch slightly back. Could adjust the wheel tilt cause the multi-function switch to become worst? - I took off the center console, with the two small light bulbs unclipped and shift solenoid switch disconnected - I took out the radio (and maybe because I pulled too hard) found the power copper wiring fraying out. I pushed the radio back in with the wires exposed and maybe it touched some back metal plate and shorted? Beyond that, I don't understand how this process has caused these electronic issues.  

I sourced a Dorman 924-980 and according to all the sites is a direct replacement for the 1995 Buick Regal. However, upon closer inspection it doesn't look right at all: Instead, Dorman 924-748 looks more like a direct replacement: Can anyone confirm the right after market part here? Again, Dorman's own site is suggestion the first as the direct fit. And finally, can the solenoid be replaced withing removing the plastic side and overhand covering it?