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I am trying to figure out the issue with my rear defrost.  I have no voltage back at the grid or the plug to the defrost/antenna module. I press the button and the light turns on but I don't hear a click for the relay.  I have tested for voltage at the relay and have 12v on the 30 pin but no voltage on any other pin when the button is pushed on. I am wondering if it's possibly the hvac control panel. I don't know how power is routed into the relay to know if it's the panel or bcm that supplies the power for the relay.  I sure hope someone can direct me on where to look next. Thanks for any guidance here!!

So I have to go back to the old setup because I can't get anything on between the throttle body and the maf because it's too close to the wastegate.  I guess I'll just put the old rear cover on and leave the newer front one.

Suddenly found large pool of oil under my 91 Grand Prix SE w/3.1L. Found the oil pressure sender leaking. Replaced sender and notice new oil pressure was only 30 psi. Over next couple days, it read lower and lower. Replaced it with another new sender. Now reading higher oil pressure (+60 psi). Believing it fixed, I drove it normally. Over the next few days, I noticed the pressure again reading lower and lower. So I again replaced the sender and this time, also changed the filter and oil. Now reading +70 psi when cold. Once oil is hot, pressure is still at 70 psi any time RPMs are over idle…at idle, pressure drops to 35 psi (pressure moves with throttle changes when hot). I suspect the oil pressure relief valve is bad/stuck. I’m trying to confirm where it is on my 3.1L engine. Online research points to various locations like under the oil filter, next to oil filter, or on the oil pump. Since removal of the oil pan is partially blocked, I’m hoping it’s not on the oil pump. And I don’t recall seeing it under the oil filter (but I wasn’t paying attention when I replaced it). Anyone know definitively where the oil pressure relief valve is on a 3.1L?…or have suggestions to confirm it is a problem valve? I’m gonna hook up a pressure gauge to verify the high pressure. If it is high, I was wondering if applying high air pressure to sender port might free a stuck relief valve.

Shouldn't need more than one vent on a single valve cover.  No idea why the original design had two. But re-routing some of that PCV hose mess will likely eliminate any crankcase pressure.

I think I might have found out what the solution for that. Every time I would do a coolant drain and fill with fresh to bleed system it would always come on saying low coolant. Then when I topped off the radiator it went off. But it would come back on, stay on, go off, stay on , go off it was weird. That fucking light didn’t tell me my coolant was low before. It all started back in 2023 when I was driving and the light came on. It waited until my whole reservoir was empty. And there was no leaks. So I checked my oil and found water and antifreeze was mixing in it. I was told I needed a new engine. So I was able to get one and have it put in. Had the engine for a year now. I’m in the process of replacing a lot of sensor connectors under the hood. I found out that the coolant temp sensor switch for the gauge on the cluster that makes the light function had a broken wire. The connector broke off the wiring harness. So I put a new connector on. I didn’t yet confirm if the light came on because I haven’t driven the car since October before I start doing stuff to it. But that could have been the issue. I did replace the coolant level sensor in the radiator. But it wouldn’t fix the light. So when I put the older one back in the light went off. It’s a weird situation. So will see if the connector fixed it.