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Nope….a couple screws, pull a couple interior pieces and it’s right there. I figured all the coupes would be similar, but you know….. GM. I had tried fixing mine last summer, but I really needed a better soldering iron. I had managed to get it working for a bit though. I traced it back to a bad solder joint on one of the pins where the vehicle side wiring harness plugs in. I could wiggle the connector slightly and get it working. I’ve since gotten better soldering equipment, redid those connections over the weekend….and now it’s back to not working at all. I’m sort of apprehensive to try again though, as the driver side power door lock actuator goes through the RKE module, even when using the door switches. If I screw something up…I don’t want to lose my power locks altogether. Since it’s not a daily, I’ll likely leave well enough alone for now.

You're probably right. Also the door lock wiring had to be extended to reach all the way back there when up front would have been a lot closer. Perhaps their thinking was it's high up, not blocked by any metal, and when people park their cars they usually park head-in and approach towards the rear, so that parcel shelf might be the best place for range. On the GMT800 pickups and SUVs which are several years newer, they put the module up high towards the middle of the dash, just below the dash cover.

I don't really believe that location is quite the best, the parcel shelf stamping does vibrate to a degree if one is continually using ones sound system to an aggressive level, the printed board is susceptible to vibration.

Ohhh...glad I've been procrastinating that task since I thought I'd have to pull the top of the back seat to get under the tray...

Same place as the Cutlass coupes. Looks like Regal is an oddball. Maybe because the Regal rear glass is a lot more vertical so the parcel shelf is a lot smaller.

Those are not the same parts the 91-93 stuff did in fact have 3 ports. would they work? maybe? they look like they terminate at the check valve in the same place.

The alignment mechanism for both the Grand Prix and Cutlass headlights are part of a spring loaded bracket with a bubble level gauge that holds the mini-quad assembly to the header panel. Before attempting to align them first hit that threaded stud with some WD-40 so you dont break it like Ive done before. They shouldnt be very hard to turn and get all sorts of crud built up around them due to location.

PM me if your still looking for a header panel, I have a backup Ive been saving.

Interesting... didn't the manual show three ports on the exhaust manifold, and this shows just one? The plug wires come up from below there on 91-93, whereas it was relocated to the upper left in later years. That pipe probably wouldn't work due to interference with the plug wire routing.

You're welcome. Something to investigate...these are 96 LQ1's. This is from a random Google search of 2 - 96 Monte Carlo Z34's. Looks like they have that same silver pipe on the front headers. Since we know the last year for the manual LQ1 was 92/93...and these are obviously automatic cars, maybe the same or very similar setup was standard on all 96-97 LQ1's by then. If so, this will help with the availability of possible parts prospects.

Awesome, thanks guys. Looks like I don't have the proper manifold to connect that pipe even if I had it. PO must have swapped it out.

its LQ1 5 speed only. Pipes 3, 20 connect to the exhaust manifold Pipe 17 connects to pipe 9 and the air pump, part 10

I'm just guessing here but it looks like there is 2 points of entry? One...the area where the system goes into the front header. The second one...up topside where that hose goes into the sensor thingy on the end of the plenum.

Depending on the design of the headlights, they may have Precision bearing assemblies that allow for aiming or movement (like in some vehicles with adjustable headlight beams). Make sure those bearings are in good condition when swapping. If the bearings that control the adjustment mechanism are damaged or worn out in the GP lights, you could either replace them or move the intact bearings from your old CS lights if compatible.

I've been working on this for the last four days, and it took over 120 cycles (what the manual says could be "several" but I lost count) of back-and-forth rotation to get it to where there were no more air bubbles and the pump was finally quiet again. Determined to fix this once and for all, I had gotten an OEM pump off a junkyard Z34 and installed it, then proceeded with the bleeding procedure in cycles of 10 at a time. I've replaced the pump at least three times before over the years, and have tried the cold-weather fluid as well. Nothing has ever worked and most things just made it worse, because the problem all along has been pump cavitation from air in the system that I never knew the right way to bleed it out.

I know what this is and what it does. On my C5, it is called an Air Injection Reaction pump, and it pumps fresh air into the exhaust at startup to accelerate lighting off the catalytic converter, like blowing on a fire to get it burning, to reduce startup emissions. I don't know if this is specific to manuals or the 3.4 or even 91-93s, but I can't find any information about it in the 1992 factory service manual. If your car has one of these, where does the pump's outlet hose connect where it comes into the engine bay near the AC compressor?

In the GP it's mounted to the topside of the right rear parcel shelf next to the speaker.

Appreciate the response. I’ll see what I can do this weekend.

My '03 Trailblazer needed the GM/ACDelco "Cold Climate" PS fluid. Whined like a 2-year-old with regular PS fluid. I don't know of any other vehicles that have needed the Cold Climate fluid...but it's available if that's what it takes.

So I know it has been a while, but in case this is still a problem for anyone and for future reference, I found that I have been doing the bleeding procedure incorrectly - and most of the YouTube instructional videos are too. I found the proper procedure in the FSM and I'm posting it here. BLEEDING THE POWER STEERING SYSTEM After replacing the fluid or servicing the power steering hydraulic system, you must bleed air from the system. Air in the system prevents an accurate fluid level reading, causes pump cavitation noise and over time could damage the pump. To bleed the power steering system, proceed as follows: 1. Begin with the engine off, front wheels off the ground. and wheels turned all the way to the left. 2. Add either standard power steering fluid or optional cold climate fluid, to the "FULL COLD" mark on the fluid level indicator. Refer to MAINTENANCE AND LUBRICATION (SECTION OB) for information on power steering fluids. 3. Bleed the system by turning the wheels side to side without hitting the stops. ! Important This may require turning the wheels from side to side several times. Keep the fluid level at the "FULL COLD" mark. Fluid with air in it has a light tan appearance. This air must be eliminated from the fluid before normal steering action can be obtained. Start the engine. With the engine idling, recheck the fluid level. If necessary, add fluid to bring the level to the "FULL COLD" mark. 5. Return the wheels to the center position. Lower front wheels to the ground. Continue running the engine for two or three minutes. 6. Test the vehicle to be sure the steering functions normally and is free from noise. ! Important Inspect for fluid leakage at connection points along the power steering system. 7. Recheck the fluid level as described in Steps 3 and 4 except that the fluid level should now be up to the "FULL HOT" mark after the system has stabilized at its normal operating temperature.

I could be wrong this was a long time ago. In my 1991 Grand prix my keyless entry did not work at all. Figured out the relay was getting power but not doing anything. If I recall it is under the rear package tray? I remember getting in the trunk at one point, but that could have been my convertible. I did also remove my rear interior panels, but can't remember if it was for the keyless entry module. Once you find it, just open it up and look for bad solder joints and touch them up. That's how I fixed mine.

Is it a coupe? In my Regal, it’s behind the passenger side rear interior panel. I believe all of the 1st gen coupes, save for the convertibles have them in a similar location. It’s roughly behind the red circle.

Sorry to dig this topic up but I’m currently doing this job off and on on my 1991 Grand Prix. I have unbolted and taken out the back seat completely but haven’t found the module yet. Are they located in the same place on a 91 Grand Prix?