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So I know it has been a while, but in case this is still a problem for anyone and for future reference, I found that I have been doing the bleeding procedure incorrectly - and most of the YouTube instructional videos are too. I found the proper procedure in the FSM and I'm posting it here. BLEEDING THE POWER STEERING SYSTEM After replacing the fluid or servicing the power steering hydraulic system, you must bleed air from the system. Air in the system prevents an accurate fluid level reading, causes pump cavitation noise and over time could damage the pump. To bleed the power steering system, proceed as follows: 1. Begin with the engine off, front wheels off the ground. and wheels turned all the way to the left. 2. Add either standard power steering fluid or optional cold climate fluid, to the "FULL COLD" mark on the fluid level indicator. Refer to MAINTENANCE AND LUBRICATION (SECTION OB) for information on power steering fluids. 3. Bleed the system by turning the wheels side to side without hitting the stops. ! Important This may require turning the wheels from side to side several times. Keep the fluid level at the "FULL COLD" mark. Fluid with air in it has a light tan appearance. This air must be eliminated from the fluid before normal steering action can be obtained. Start the engine. With the engine idling, recheck the fluid level. If necessary, add fluid to bring the level to the "FULL COLD" mark. 5. Return the wheels to the center position. Lower front wheels to the ground. Continue running the engine for two or three minutes. 6. Test the vehicle to be sure the steering functions normally and is free from noise. ! Important Inspect for fluid leakage at connection points along the power steering system. 7. Recheck the fluid level as described in Steps 3 and 4 except that the fluid level should now be up to the "FULL HOT" mark after the system has stabilized at its normal operating temperature.

I could be wrong this was a long time ago. In my 1991 Grand prix my keyless entry did not work at all. Figured out the relay was getting power but not doing anything. If I recall it is under the rear package tray? I remember getting in the trunk at one point, but that could have been my convertible. I did also remove my rear interior panels, but can't remember if it was for the keyless entry module. Once you find it, just open it up and look for bad solder joints and touch them up. That's how I fixed mine.

Is it a coupe? In my Regal, it’s behind the passenger side rear interior panel. I believe all of the 1st gen coupes, save for the convertibles have them in a similar location. It’s roughly behind the red circle.

Sorry to dig this topic up but I’m currently doing this job off and on on my 1991 Grand Prix. I have unbolted and taken out the back seat completely but haven’t found the module yet. Are they located in the same place on a 91 Grand Prix?

When measuring across from clip to clip... All 3 on the coupe are 55" on the money, On the Vert they are all 54 1/2, this will also make the carpet lay funny unless trimmed.

Now how about some actual measurements? Did what I could, where I thought I should. Found a few things I will do my best to articulate. Because of the rear seat reinforcement on the Verts... It makes this measurement about 1 1/2 inches shorter when measuring to the very peak of that hump than on the coupe. That will affect the way the carpet lays as well as...

I attempted at least 6 videos but I suck at making them. I don't even know what I was trying to say. I`m 100% convinced that the coupe carpet is trimmed into place as it was being installed. The Vert carpet has all the signs around the edge were it was cut with a carpet knife while the coupe carpet has straight edges from the machine that produced it. Vert Coupe I lined them up as best could be using the drivers side pad and a straight edge. Aside from the larger hole for the center console I could not find a difference accept around the edges where it had been cut. The Coupe carpet has nice smooth edges while the Vert carpet is fraying in the places a knife cut it.

The pinouts and the functionality of the radio module is likely the same on your HU. Based on the last page, it appears that there is a 5 volt signal used (C2 pin 12) to switch from radio mode to “aux input” mode. While you won’t have the external wiring harness like the Regal does where all the mods can be done, you may be able to use the info to trace the pinouts in the display portion or the radio module of your HU in order to do it. From what I remember from having my my cutlass HU open all those years back is that there is a connector C2 like shown above going into the radio receive module from the display/tape deck portion of your HU. If there is enough room, you could potentially make all of the mods within that harness. What I can't recall though is if the wiring for that connector is in the form of wiring harness, or if it is more of a ribbon cable setup. Gotta say....looking at all of this is making me re-consider doing this mod to the Regal.

You're wanting to do this for the STE, right? If I remember correctly, all of the early 1st gen Ws used what is essentially the same radio module. The main difference being that some used a separate display and tape/CD deck (Regal and earlier GP), where as others had everything packaged in the form of a 1.5 DIN HU, with the radio module still being a separate, removable item. When I had my 92 cutlass, I had replaced a non-functional tape deck with one from an 88 Regal with the 5 band EQ, as it was the exact same part....just contained in a vastly different package. My Regal FSM has a section that identifies the various connecter pin outs, and also seems to imply that there is 5 volt signal used to switch between Radio and "Aux" inputs. I'll post up some of the information, as it may help in your case.

SB, great vid and I'm sure very helpful to pursue that avenue . Do you have part numbers? 55.... I'm having a trusted shop do the work as I don't have the equipment. They are experienced mechanics and I'm confident can handle the job. Thanks tho

You'll probably need some instruction on how to get the spring in & out....without the *compressor* it is a bit of a task, one has to disassemble the rear suspension to get the old one out & the replacement in.

The tape deck definitely still works - I was just hoping for a more “integrated” solution that I know folks have done - just cant find the detail on “how”. thank you!!!

Thank you all for the suggestions and helpful information. Found a spring at a reasonable price with reasonable shipping. Shout out to 55... for the part source. After arrival and install I'll check in again.

I know, I know this is taking forever. Much work remains before we are ready to announce the success in the team's ability to not accomplish anything. I didnt see a question about reinforcements but they are indeed there, the VIN number is on the drivers side. They jut in a bit on both sides at the rocker panels so the coupe carpet would be a bit wide in this section. I`m confident it would work, I just dont have the extra $400 for the mass backed carpet I want in this bear market! I`m working on getting a donor coupe carpet in the Vert now and seeing how much and wear it needs to be trimmed. If I cannot update this week then this weekend.

55 .... Thank you! Great information. White ....very helpful also! Appreciate it. Gives me hope lol

generally speaking I would go after a earlier car 88-91-ish the earlier springs seemed to not sag as badly

About the most direct approach would be to make use of car-part.com, select a Grand Prix, the results should cover all years using the fiberglas rear spring, you'll want one that matches your cars suspension options. Car-part refers to the rear spring as.....*leaf spring, rear* do a *north east* search.....the most expensive displayed was $180...the cheapest was $35 one location in Syracuse *Central auto recycling* came back with a spring at $100 https://car-part.com/

Hi, I'm hoping for a final answer also. Please reply when you have chance. Thanks

Does the tape deck still work? If so, might be worth using a Bluetooth cassette adapter. I use one in the Regal and it works pretty damn good. I did need to shim the tape head in the adapter for it to work well though. The one I have has a small wire/dongle that sticks out with a button to turn it on and off, pause and skip tracks, and it also contains the mic for hands free calling. For around $20, it might be a good alternative for a fair weather vehicle. I did consider modding mine, but I haven’t decided to pull the trigger yet, specifically because I don’t drive the car daily….and when I do, I don’t always have going anyways. Here is a small sample of how it sounds. There is some “tape print through” in the actual track that came through very clearly in the video, which kind of shocked me that my phone picked it up….but it also helps show how well the thing actually works. IMG_0575.mov

Agreed. The unwillingness is the problem. It's unfortunate, the car is an otherwise very serviceable vehicle. At this point I'm at a loss for a solution.

Originally teal, dark gray interior w/284 5-spd, quad buckets & AQ9s, HUD, DIC, 95 engine & alt upgrades, 96 brakes.

Thank you so much. Just didn’t want to dry any seals out or anything. I coated everything with oil again.

Just beautiful! What was the factory color though? What color interior?

What about this?