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So I was sick of my dim bulbs on my dashboard and I decided to replace them with some stock bulbs I got from the yard and when I went to take off the back panel off the cluster I noticed several bulbs were already missing for some reason. I'm pretty sure all my lights would come on when I start the car so I'm wondering why these slots are empty? What happens if I put a bulb in there anyways? And on a side note I noticed that most of my bulbs were just dirty so cleaning them off helped as well.

x2 on that, but, IMHO I wish they could have made the 2 doors with door handles in the door and not in the B-Pillar. These handles are nothing but headaches. And, the Verts would not have needed a basket handle (?) I'm needing to replace my LH Door handle. Again.

One of the guys here will know

For once I condone a thread being resurrected 22 years after the fact.

I’ll have to check my book again because mine in my 94 feeds out of a fuse box on the inside of the passenger door. I’ll have to double check under the hood but from my schematics I don’t see it going under the hood

The “component center” is supposed to be on the right hand side behind the instrument panel, and the orange/black wire is in cavity 14 of the harness connector.

Here’s three pages from the factory shop manual from a 1992. The connector, the wiring, and the fuse block component center detail.

On my 1991, the orange/black wire traces to behind the glovebox and appears to go through the firewall - but I do not see a corresponding orange/black wire in the C100 connector.

Good afternoon, new member here. Before this I was into the facebook world of groups until i stumbled upon this. Facebook is great and all but when it comes to needing technical help/date it starts to lack. I currently have 3 Grand prix, one is a 1996 grand prix se that is lowered with cut springs in the front and custom coil overs in the rear. It has a customer 2.5 inch exhaust all the way back, 97 ecm upgrade so its able to be tuned on HP tuners, cold air, ported intake, and some nice plugs and wires. Thats the Summer time daily. Fun car, not fast but fun. Hence the screen name. now onto the other two. I have a 94 GP se I pulled out of a barn in WV back in 2022 with a buddy of mine. guy said it needed a fuel pump and that was it. I got it running in his yard, drove it on to the trailer and back 900 miles home. well after getting into the restoration I found that it had a stuck lifter. SO it got a new valve train. 100 miles later it developed a really bad rod knock. Then I got the idea of LS4 would be cool and im going to be pulling the engine lets manual swap it. Later i went on to buy a 91 gtp with a 5 speed. currently working on getting the fly wheel back from the machine shop and building engine mounts for the 5.3. its going to be fun when its done! BUT this is where I need your help. my 94 did not come with power seats factory. I swaped the whole interior from tan to charcole from a donor car which I no longer have. In the manual it says the power wire is a orange wire with a black tracer. I cant not find that wire anywhere. now in the fuse box it has a solid orange wire coming out of it, probably a 10 gauge or so. I thought I found said orange wire but when I check it with my DVOM I cant find continuity. Has someone installed power drivers seat in a 94 that didnt have one factory or does someone know where this pre wired in power wire would be? I would really like to use the factory equipment if I can. Thanks guys look forward to hanging out here!

It took me 22 years but I finally did do that manual swap

Yeah, I'm not sure what happened with the broken link. The Deboss garage link is basically the same strategy though. One removes the slave and manually actuates it in reverse to bleed the system. Thats all one needs to do. Its just awkward in the car with limited space to work.

Right idea...wrong procedure. Removing the plug wire from the coil creates an open circuit on the ignition secondary side. An open circuit drives the voltage sky-high, which can cause insulation failure including inside the ignition coil. Find a way to GROUND the spark, which drops the voltage to zero, and causes no insulation stress. In this case, if you remove the plug wire from the coil, connect a jumper wire from the coil terminal to engine ground. THEN start the engine to see if that cylinder is contributing. It's easier on a distributor than on a coil-pack. A few small nails, blunted, and dabbed with silicone dielectric grease, slid BETWEEN the plug wire and plug boot (Don't puncture the insulation) so that the nails touch the metal spark-plug wire metal terminal; and a grounded INCANDESCENT test-light or jumper wire works wonders. Start engine, touch test light or jumper wire to each nail in turn. Maybe you can sneak small nails into the coil-pack end of the plug wires. I wouldn't be able to on my 3.4L Luminas, there's no room to work with the coil packs bolted to the front of the engine. For the record...since you had an alternator failure, did you ever re-charge the battery? Low battery voltage can cause all sorts of problems.

My rule of thumb is every 36 months, that will depend on where in the country you live, if you live in a higher humidity region flush the system more often. All brake fluid (glycol) with the exception of silcone based fluid is hygroscopic. Keeping the system clean is something that is generally overlooked by most vehicle owners. When you purchase replacement brake fluid & you open the container (or containers) to use it try to use most of if not all of what's in the container. Leaving a capped partially used unsealed container on the shelf is just as bad as what will happen to what's in the cars system. Humidity knows no bounds.

How often do you recommend bleeding? Once a year?

Do not blame the caliper for this situation, this particular design is a high maintenance design. Remember to constantly use the parking brake, keep the calipers clean, do not allow dirt buildup in between the parking brake lever & the caliper housing. Pull the calipers at least once a year & inspect them, ensure the sliders are moving freely. Seeing as the piston is an internal item & is protected by an external dirt shield they do not usually seize because of external dirt or corrosion, but they will seize due to lack of maintenance, where the brake fluid has not been flushed on a regular basis. Keep this in mind...brake fluid is hygroscopic, that means it attracts moisture, moisture gets into the caliper bore, works on all of the metal parts, flush the fluid & do it regularly. I can't speak for anyone else but I still have 30 year old calipers on my car, they are kept painted & clean, even tho the car sees very limited use nothing gets neglected.

Like other people said below, depending on the part you’re from it will get rusty and it seized the piston. Dirt and corrosion made the seal leak internally. I went with autozone because of the limited lifetime warranty and got a bad caliper out of the box. I sent that back and was able to find ac Delco and it was a lot better. I was just wondering why it’s hard to find the part number without the sport suspension and if they were a difference between the two.

I know members here have done them before. If it were me i'd probably give it a shot myself, of course i know literally zero about such things not that its stopped me before.

Pretty car. I've always liked that color combination.

That would largely depend on your skill level. I know doing that is waaaaay above my pay grade, so I'd leave it to the professionals. But your mileage may vary. The only advice I can give, courtesy of the guy who fixed my existing top, is to use heavy grade staples and add a screw every four inches or so along the back to help hold it in place.

its neat to see the progress of GM10 that far back. Crazy to think just how big and expensive an undertaking this platform was to develop. Say what you will about Roger Smith and the absolute disaster it was bringing these cars to market, we have him to mostly thank for these cars.

Hard to tell if they're identical due to the quality of the photo, but if they're not, the wheels are quite similar to the early 6000 STE wheels.

Welcome! A lot of us have moved on from w-bodies at this point in life considering the newest ones are now at least 14 years old, so finding one that isn't beat or rusted to hell is a challenge. But we still love them, so though we don't check in as often as back in the day, there's still a good chunk of us that pop in from time to time.

I don't know that we have very many (if any) LaCrosse/Allures period, let alone the V8 trims. Looks clean, too. Welcome!

I have a 1992 Cutlass Supreme Convertible, it is beyond in need of a new top, does anyone know how difficult it is to replace myself? I plan on buying a new top for it later this month.

And if it’s a constant misfire, try something as simple as a cylinder drop test first. Unplugging each cylinder individually at the coil to see which are contributing and which are not will be very helpful as to which direction to go.