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The connector body has to come apart somehow--there's likely a plastic lock-tab or two on the body, so the rear "end cap" and weather-seal comes off. Then slide your tool into the gaps from the front, to release the metal lock-tabs on the wire terminals, and pull the wires out the rear.

The Low Coolant light went on in all 3 of My CS, 2 94's, 1 96. The Coolant was not low. I just disconnected the wire at the sensor. I will change the sensor the next time the radiator is flushed, but until then, problem solved.

Wow, did I catch you on a bad day?

You have 'em out of the front of the plastic connector body. Examine the lock-tabs, determine how to release them from the front, so they pull out the rear.

I found a replacement plug for my air temp sensor on a junkyard car and am trying to get the wires out of it. I've got a round multi-tool for this that I got on Amazon that has five different tools on it but so far it looks like only the smallest straight-blade tool fits. I pushed the wires through the front of the replacement plug but that doesn't seem like the right way to do it.

Thank you very much! My skill at reading wiring diagrams and soldering is between zero and zero, so you I think I may have to find a professional service! Though if you think you could do it, happy to send the unit to you and pay you!!!!!

She dont look like much kid but she's got it where it counts...

It's not an official "aux" input....it's the line level audio input from the cassette or CD player. Based on what I see in the FSM, there is a 5 volt signal sent to the radio module when one is inserted, which triggers it to switch from radio mode to the tape/cd input. In theory....you put a switchable 5 volt signal on the correct pin and tap the audio lines....you can add your own audio source and switch between sources. I know your setup is different...however my 92 Cutlass used the 1.5 DIN HU, and it used the exact same radio module that my Regal did...it was just bolted directly to the HU instead of being tucked away elsewhere. If the GP also uses that setup, the pinouts/wiring diagrams I posted might help in determining how you could add a Bluetooth module.

What would the factory have used “aux input” for?

Wow, what are the odds of this coming up again. I just redid a couple of these modules. At one point It got bad enough that I built a test jig for them, really made testing them that much easier. Had no idea the regal ones were there, seems like an odd location. I assumed they were all in the rear parcel shelf.

Nope….a couple screws, pull a couple interior pieces and it’s right there. I figured all the coupes would be similar, but you know….. GM. I had tried fixing mine last summer, but I really needed a better soldering iron. I had managed to get it working for a bit though. I traced it back to a bad solder joint on one of the pins where the vehicle side wiring harness plugs in. I could wiggle the connector slightly and get it working. I’ve since gotten better soldering equipment, redid those connections over the weekend….and now it’s back to not working at all. I’m sort of apprehensive to try again though, as the driver side power door lock actuator goes through the RKE module, even when using the door switches. If I screw something up…I don’t want to lose my power locks altogether. Since it’s not a daily, I’ll likely leave well enough alone for now.

You're probably right. Also the door lock wiring had to be extended to reach all the way back there when up front would have been a lot closer. Perhaps their thinking was it's high up, not blocked by any metal, and when people park their cars they usually park head-in and approach towards the rear, so that parcel shelf might be the best place for range. On the GMT800 pickups and SUVs which are several years newer, they put the module up high towards the middle of the dash, just below the dash cover.

I don't really believe that location is quite the best, the parcel shelf stamping does vibrate to a degree if one is continually using ones sound system to an aggressive level, the printed board is susceptible to vibration.

Ohhh...glad I've been procrastinating that task since I thought I'd have to pull the top of the back seat to get under the tray...

Same place as the Cutlass coupes. Looks like Regal is an oddball. Maybe because the Regal rear glass is a lot more vertical so the parcel shelf is a lot smaller.

Those are not the same parts the 91-93 stuff did in fact have 3 ports. would they work? maybe? they look like they terminate at the check valve in the same place.

The alignment mechanism for both the Grand Prix and Cutlass headlights are part of a spring loaded bracket with a bubble level gauge that holds the mini-quad assembly to the header panel. Before attempting to align them first hit that threaded stud with some WD-40 so you dont break it like Ive done before. They shouldnt be very hard to turn and get all sorts of crud built up around them due to location.

PM me if your still looking for a header panel, I have a backup Ive been saving.

Interesting... didn't the manual show three ports on the exhaust manifold, and this shows just one? The plug wires come up from below there on 91-93, whereas it was relocated to the upper left in later years. That pipe probably wouldn't work due to interference with the plug wire routing.

You're welcome. Something to investigate...these are 96 LQ1's. This is from a random Google search of 2 - 96 Monte Carlo Z34's. Looks like they have that same silver pipe on the front headers. Since we know the last year for the manual LQ1 was 92/93...and these are obviously automatic cars, maybe the same or very similar setup was standard on all 96-97 LQ1's by then. If so, this will help with the availability of possible parts prospects.

Awesome, thanks guys. Looks like I don't have the proper manifold to connect that pipe even if I had it. PO must have swapped it out.

its LQ1 5 speed only. Pipes 3, 20 connect to the exhaust manifold Pipe 17 connects to pipe 9 and the air pump, part 10

I'm just guessing here but it looks like there is 2 points of entry? One...the area where the system goes into the front header. The second one...up topside where that hose goes into the sensor thingy on the end of the plenum.