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Well, a spring shop will only deal in steel items, they can't fab a glas item, this isn't rocket science, any shop can do the job, they just have to show the determination to take on the task. The glas spring is a parabolic design (thicker in the centre, thinner at the ends, making one in a steel configuration is a no-brainer as multi leaf springs are the same sort of design, One selects the single width of each leaf & the thickness to get the wanted spring rate & load rate, It involves cutting the blanks to the required length to make the stack, because the original is a transverse single spring the time consuming part of the job is the mechanic having to arc each leaf individually & get them near perfect in their arc so that each side off centre is near identical & lets the car sit perfectly level from side to side.

Not far south of Albany NY. Local junkyards have nothing and few suggestions. The spring shops say 'fiberglass, we don't do that' and show no interest in helping out further. Found on in Kentucky, place wants just shy of $400 (350 shipping!). I'd just put in spring struts if knew what exactly to get, I'm reluctant to experiment as that may just end up with a bunch of parts and no money lol. Appreciate the reply

Where do you live & what sort of response from the shops contacted are you getting?

Finding a spring (and a shop interested in a replacement) is proving difficult. Anyone know of a swap that is the complete spring and strut from another W body or GM car that could 'bolt in'?

Did the final application of the coupe carpeting work ok in the convertible? I still need to improve mine and would like to buy new soon.

55 .... Thanks! Def the most and most consice information I've read so far. Some of the links are dead ends (of course, there pretty old) unfortunately but I'm going to attempt to connect some of the businesses and I may have a lead on a spring found on ebay. Thanks again

You're being paranoid. Random and light brake cleaner overspray is relatively harmless. Nope. MAYBE you washed the oil off of 'em.

You can look thru this old posting from 2007, there still may be some useful links in there...... the last member I can remember who did coilovers was Imp558, that was near 8 years ago.... or this one....

White.. This is what I'm learning but as you mentioned, it appears it would be a (very?) deep dive and likely time consuming endeavor. I'm exploring a replacement but they are scarce. It would cool to construct the coil strut and install but there is just no enough info to feel comfortable attending it. Thanks for the information and insight.

All I remember about that was at one point people figured out how to build rear coil overs out of mostly off the shelf parts. There was always plenty of discussion around ride quality, and if the stock upper mounts could take the added forces, but to my knowledge no one ever had issues with that part of it. I was never into lowering my car so I can't speak to it, but I see no reason why it couldn't be used to bring the car back up to factory height as well. It might take a heap of searching old threads on here but the information is likely still around from then.

Ok, I'll give him a shout.

Anyone know of the mentioned kit or conversation to coilovers?

Thank you for the information

I did - and loved it - but no detail on "which wires to solder".

For those in the states one doesn't HAVE to approach CMV, for me they're not far away, but keep in mind that the company has changed ownership & the staff now there are not the staff who used to fab these springs 20 + years ago. The last time I spoke with the current owner John Geropolous none of the staff had any experience putting together one of these multi leaf springs to replace the glas leaf. When the original owner Alex Vitanoski & his son left they took the know how with them. But that aside any capable spring shop can fab up a replacement for the glas leaf, all they need is the car, the old spring & do the formula to make a 2 leaf or 3 leaf replacement that will be either a high arc or shallow arc, oem height or custom height depending on what you the owner are looking for. The indepth part is getting either outboard side of the chassis mounting points exactly the same arc so the back end of the car sits even. Because of their lack of knowledge I did not go to them, instead I used a spring shop close to home to fab what is currently under the car.

There's a shop in Canada that either still does them or did them. Probably worth a call. https://cvmbirch.ca/ Birchmount springs, I want to say back in the day they sold a bunch of them to various members. Other then that its probably used as the only other option.

Have 96 supreme with a bum mono spring. Looking to replace it or put spring/struts in place. I have read about the change to spring struts but finding it difficult to find the part or parts and a how to. The mono leave is difficult to find also it appears. I'm sure this has been addressed here before but I'm new and looking for some definitive suggestions. Thanks

Looks great to me. Spent awhile trying to see what you were talking about. that tiny bit of surface rust I cannot imagine will hurt anything. just an aside. The high res pictures really show how crudely the rocker arms were made. the top edge is really something you can see how they just cleaved the steel when they were stamping them. at least they got the surface finish right where it matters.

Not able to give a great step by step one because last time I did it was awhile ago. and the radios differ so much inside from radio to radio. Last one I did was the 5 band EQ tape deck in my IROC. I found the Left and right audio signals coming from the tuner to the amplifier and severed them, got a small 6 conductor wire, and snaked it out and through the console to a ON-ON switch in the console. one position lets the radio pass through as usual, the other lets the bluetooth module interrupt and go to the amplifier instead. I stuffed the bluetooth module inside the radio itself and its powered by the power switch of the radio so its truly hands off. Been working well for awhile now. So basically I broke out the right and left tuner from going into the amplifier, brought those along with the BT out left/right and another set of wires going back to the tuner so I can still keep factory functionality.

Have you seen his video? He doesn't go in depth on it, (MemphisMan), but he does explain a little bit about it. I would reach out to him for the details...or I'd be happy to ask on your behalf.

Does anyone have a link to a good DIY for adding a bluetooth module to a stock 1992 tape head unit? I saw @MemphisMan and @White93z34 have done it, and others, but searching here I can't find a step by step for dummies like me. Any help appreciated!

I did something stupid yesterday. I sprayed down both heads with brake cleaner because they were dirty and I also got some in the valley a little bit. I know brake cleaner drys out seals and causes lots of white oxidation when it drys. A Little bit trail of brake cleaner entered the valley too after I sprayed the heads. I wiped it real quick because I didn’t want the seals to dry out. I didn’t get any down the port holes where the valve steam sits thank god. But I got to use a shop vac because some plastic and wire installation got down in the valves when I was replacing wire connectors. I kinda thought afterwards I might have dried out the valve train or dry the seals out after using brake cleaner to clean the heads because I noticed there white oxidation on the valve train after the brake cleaner dry. My friend told me to coat them down with oil real good so it wouldn’t further dry anything out and it will be fine. I have to drain the oil out anyway again because some coolant got down in the engine when removing the intake. So all the oil will drain out of it by time I drain the oil out. I poured half a quart of oil over the valley down into the camshaft, on the rocker arms and pushrods in the valve train. Is everything ok? It’s all lubricated and nothing looks dry anymore. I am seeing very light surface rust on one of the rockers now. Is this something to worry about now? It’s only at 500 miles. I changed the break in oil at 489 miles. I haven’t driven this car since last October because my intake manifold cracked so I had to remove the intake to replace it and replace the gasket again. I don’t want the brake cleaner to further cause problems to my engine drying out seals ect now. I thought coating the valley making the oil run down to the camshaft and coating valve train would be ok. Keep in mind I had the intake off since last year but I placed the intake manifold back over it so it wouldn’t be exposed. Yesterday I cut off the intake gasket. So now I just have to replace the intake gasket. I couldn’t do it all these month’s because of the weather. Now it’s getting nice out so I can fix it and work on it.

Yeah, it looks like the relief valve is on the oil pump. From what I remember about my car, there is no way to reach all the pan bolts without dropping the dropping the sub-frame. But I need to look again cause that doesn’t right…and I really hope I’m wrong.