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55 .... Thanks! Def the most and most consice information I've read so far. Some of the links are dead ends (of course, there pretty old) unfortunately but I'm going to attempt to connect some of the businesses and I may have a lead on a spring found on ebay. Thanks again

You're being paranoid. Random and light brake cleaner overspray is relatively harmless. Nope. MAYBE you washed the oil off of 'em.

You can look thru this old posting from 2007, there still may be some useful links in there...... the last member I can remember who did coilovers was Imp558, that was near 8 years ago.... or this one....

White.. This is what I'm learning but as you mentioned, it appears it would be a (very?) deep dive and likely time consuming endeavor. I'm exploring a replacement but they are scarce. It would cool to construct the coil strut and install but there is just no enough info to feel comfortable attending it. Thanks for the information and insight.

All I remember about that was at one point people figured out how to build rear coil overs out of mostly off the shelf parts. There was always plenty of discussion around ride quality, and if the stock upper mounts could take the added forces, but to my knowledge no one ever had issues with that part of it. I was never into lowering my car so I can't speak to it, but I see no reason why it couldn't be used to bring the car back up to factory height as well. It might take a heap of searching old threads on here but the information is likely still around from then.

Ok, I'll give him a shout.

Anyone know of the mentioned kit or conversation to coilovers?

Thank you for the information

I did - and loved it - but no detail on "which wires to solder".

For those in the states one doesn't HAVE to approach CMV, for me they're not far away, but keep in mind that the company has changed ownership & the staff now there are not the staff who used to fab these springs 20 + years ago. The last time I spoke with the current owner John Geropolous none of the staff had any experience putting together one of these multi leaf springs to replace the glas leaf. When the original owner Alex Vitanoski & his son left they took the know how with them. But that aside any capable spring shop can fab up a replacement for the glas leaf, all they need is the car, the old spring & do the formula to make a 2 leaf or 3 leaf replacement that will be either a high arc or shallow arc, oem height or custom height depending on what you the owner are looking for. The indepth part is getting either outboard side of the chassis mounting points exactly the same arc so the back end of the car sits even. Because of their lack of knowledge I did not go to them, instead I used a spring shop close to home to fab what is currently under the car.

There's a shop in Canada that either still does them or did them. Probably worth a call. https://cvmbirch.ca/ Birchmount springs, I want to say back in the day they sold a bunch of them to various members. Other then that its probably used as the only other option.

Have 96 supreme with a bum mono spring. Looking to replace it or put spring/struts in place. I have read about the change to spring struts but finding it difficult to find the part or parts and a how to. The mono leave is difficult to find also it appears. I'm sure this has been addressed here before but I'm new and looking for some definitive suggestions. Thanks

Looks great to me. Spent awhile trying to see what you were talking about. that tiny bit of surface rust I cannot imagine will hurt anything. just an aside. The high res pictures really show how crudely the rocker arms were made. the top edge is really something you can see how they just cleaved the steel when they were stamping them. at least they got the surface finish right where it matters.

Not able to give a great step by step one because last time I did it was awhile ago. and the radios differ so much inside from radio to radio. Last one I did was the 5 band EQ tape deck in my IROC. I found the Left and right audio signals coming from the tuner to the amplifier and severed them, got a small 6 conductor wire, and snaked it out and through the console to a ON-ON switch in the console. one position lets the radio pass through as usual, the other lets the bluetooth module interrupt and go to the amplifier instead. I stuffed the bluetooth module inside the radio itself and its powered by the power switch of the radio so its truly hands off. Been working well for awhile now. So basically I broke out the right and left tuner from going into the amplifier, brought those along with the BT out left/right and another set of wires going back to the tuner so I can still keep factory functionality.

Have you seen his video? He doesn't go in depth on it, (MemphisMan), but he does explain a little bit about it. I would reach out to him for the details...or I'd be happy to ask on your behalf.

Does anyone have a link to a good DIY for adding a bluetooth module to a stock 1992 tape head unit? I saw @MemphisMan and @White93z34 have done it, and others, but searching here I can't find a step by step for dummies like me. Any help appreciated!

I did something stupid yesterday. I sprayed down both heads with brake cleaner because they were dirty and I also got some in the valley a little bit. I know brake cleaner drys out seals and causes lots of white oxidation when it drys. A Little bit trail of brake cleaner entered the valley too after I sprayed the heads. I wiped it real quick because I didn’t want the seals to dry out. I didn’t get any down the port holes where the valve steam sits thank god. But I got to use a shop vac because some plastic and wire installation got down in the valves when I was replacing wire connectors. I kinda thought afterwards I might have dried out the valve train or dry the seals out after using brake cleaner to clean the heads because I noticed there white oxidation on the valve train after the brake cleaner dry. My friend told me to coat them down with oil real good so it wouldn’t further dry anything out and it will be fine. I have to drain the oil out anyway again because some coolant got down in the engine when removing the intake. So all the oil will drain out of it by time I drain the oil out. I poured half a quart of oil over the valley down into the camshaft, on the rocker arms and pushrods in the valve train. Is everything ok? It’s all lubricated and nothing looks dry anymore. I am seeing very light surface rust on one of the rockers now. Is this something to worry about now? It’s only at 500 miles. I changed the break in oil at 489 miles. I haven’t driven this car since last October because my intake manifold cracked so I had to remove the intake to replace it and replace the gasket again. I don’t want the brake cleaner to further cause problems to my engine drying out seals ect now. I thought coating the valley making the oil run down to the camshaft and coating valve train would be ok. Keep in mind I had the intake off since last year but I placed the intake manifold back over it so it wouldn’t be exposed. Yesterday I cut off the intake gasket. So now I just have to replace the intake gasket. I couldn’t do it all these month’s because of the weather. Now it’s getting nice out so I can fix it and work on it.

Yeah, it looks like the relief valve is on the oil pump. From what I remember about my car, there is no way to reach all the pan bolts without dropping the dropping the sub-frame. But I need to look again cause that doesn’t right…and I really hope I’m wrong.

Here’s the 3.1 L oil pump section from my 92 Regal FSM. It also lists the oil pressure spec for the 3.1 at 15psi at operating temp @ 1100 RPM. I’d assume that is a minimum spec, rather than being absolute.

Engine is running smooth. Since I tried 3 different senders and the first two eventually dropped to a zero reading, I still wonder if it’s a bad sender. I know the odds of having three brand new ones being bad are slim, I know it can happen. I gotta get that mechanical gauge on before I move on.

That's great that the BCM still seems okay. In that case, it probably is an open-collector output and should be fine to bypass it on the relay. Unfortunately, I don't have any knowledge of what these aftermarket scan tools can do. Just something I haven't had to worry about (yet) as my GM cars are older and predate the married BCMs. I'd be interested to know if you find out. I once read there's a Tech 2 clone, but I haven't researched it. I also don't know if you can program modules without access to GM Techlink to download updated firmware and such. If the BCM is giving you other weird issues, probably a good idea to lean towards replacing it.

I did test it with the bcm still plugged in. I have been thinking of investing into a higher quality scan tool. I just haven't pulled the trigger due to the costs of some these tools. I have been looking at TOPDON ArtiDiag Pro Bidirectional Scan Tool. Would you be able to tell me if this tool would be able to program the bcm? Everything I have read on these bcm's is that they are married to the car via vin and such. Also read that using a wrecking yard one usually won't work. I'm leaning towards just replacing the bcm since it's already starting to have issues. I wouldn't want to be stranded somewhere if it completely dies on me.

Yep, sounds like BCM is the culprit. Did you end up trying with the BCM plugged in? I was hesitant to suggest that because there's a slim possibility backfeeding power into one of the BCM's outputs could damage it worse, and a completely dead BCM will be an even bigger problem. If it were my car, I might be willing to take the gamble, but I have other cars I can drive. There are no schematics of the inside of the BCM, but my guess is that output is transistorized (open-collector output) so backfeeding power wouldn't hurt it, but again I don't want to suggest something that could make things worse since it's not my car. If you did try it, and everything else is still working, you could just leave that jumper wire on the relay and call it fixed, so long as the relay shuts off when you turn off the ignition. I honestly can't think of too much of a benefit for the relay to be BCM-powered. Flashing the BCM needs a Tech 2 tool. Just a guess but it may need a connection to GM TechLine which requires a very costly subscription. Easiest way might be to grab a BCM from a similarly equipped car which should already be programmed correctly. I'm not sure if the BCM needs to be married to the car, if so, swapping in a junkyard BCM might not work. Having to program in the VIN and Theft Deterrent Re-learn procedure point towards the BCM might need to be married to the car. Even more advanced electronics work might be to crack the BCM open and diagnose it down to a faulty component. Probably not easy to replace as it likely has SMD components.

Sooo..... I ran a jumper wire from N3 to L3, plugged the relay back in. Pressed the defrost button and heard the relay click. Checked at the rear window for power and I had 12v at the glass....