All Activity

Guessing the cap is supposed to be connected to either pressure or vacuum. Not merely open to atmosphere.

Kent moore made a tool for bleeding this clutch (j-36234) https://www.ebay.com/itm/355704640811?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=4ZMhdKYFRP2&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=c36yZGIlTsG&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY i bought one but I cant figure out how it is supposed to help… it seems to be a reservoir cap with a fitting. Not sure how that is any different than just having an open reservoir

Not sure if it helps but here is what the inside of the accumulator connection looks like:

no, he means what he said. For whatever ends the factory clutch hydraulics on the 284 equipped cars has a odd accumulator between the master and slave cylinder still to this date not sure WHY as they function fine without it. I assume it was so GM could get the clutch feel to their liking. In my experience once air gets into it its damn near impossible to get it out. And you need a special tool to release that quick connect between the master and slave. I have one, don't ask me what its called or where I even got it cause I don't know. That said. pull the inspection cover over the transmission where the slave cylinder attaches and observe operation. But It could be a bad master, or slave I suppose. stick your head under the dashboard and observe the boot where the master cyl rod comes in and see if its leaking around the boot.

Accumulator??? Do you mean "reservoir"?

How does the fitting on the accumulator come off? It looks like it should slide away toward the firewall. But, its not budging.

Schurkey, the last clutch had gotten hot before about 15k miles ago. Seems strange it would cause a problem all these years later. Bake82, I double checked tonight and saw no evidence of a leak up under the dash. There was metal junk in the fluid when I disconnected the slave cylinder and let it run out. I ran new DOT3 down through the system a while, then reconnected the slave. Now, I have no pedal no matter how long I pump it. A couple air bubbles came up. So, one of us even disconnected the slave at the bottom of each pedal throw, then put the cotter back in. I let the pedal back up. Repeated that a few times. But, the slave barely moves like the accumulator is full of air...?

I had a simlar issue with my 282 trans this spring. Was the Master cylinder. I noticed a very small leak in the rubber seal that the shaft runs through Replaced the hydraulic system and all was well. inspect the master cylinder on the inside and see if you spot some fluid

I've seen that happen from overheated/warped clutch discs.

I went to drive my Z34 home last night &, seemingly out of the blue, the Getrag 284's shifter wouldn't go into any gear. Though, the vehicle would creep when I pushed the shifter toward each gear. Reservoir was full. Fluid was a little dark. Clutch & fluid replaced 9 yrs./~15k miles ago. It goes through all the gears fine when the engine's off. I cranked the engine with the car in reverse and it roared backward at first, then the clutch slipped enough to maneuver the car around the driveway. Didnt find a bleeder, so sucked what I could out the top, wiped the inside, and poured in new DOT3. Shows about 1/2" play through the peephole on top of the trans. Slave cylinder nor actuactor appear to leak. I welcome any input. Thanks in advance!

I just got off the phone with the guy at the upholstery shop. He said what went 'POP' was the top of the hydraulic cylinder on the passenger side. The thing just broke off. He's ordering a new one and should have the car ready early next week. He also said the reason all the staples pulled out in the rear was whoever replaced the top before I bought the car used staples that were too short. He also fixed that and the rear passenger quarter window, which hadn't worked in a couple of years. due to a broken wire. Needless to say, whenever I need the top replaced, I know who I'll be taking it to. All of this is getting fixed just in time for our annual "sleigh ride". Every December, we'll pick an evening to put the top down, crank up the heater, and ride around looking at Christmas lights while drinking hot chocolate from commuter mugs and listening to Christmas music.

Heck yeah! Do God's work!

We could stare at the back end of a lit up car and discuss it like fine artwork in a museum, one day maybe we`ll meet up at a car show.

Great work! I linked that in the comment section on Blacktree's upload for future reference.

Interesting. I have the same gravel sound on my Spec clutch setup.

https://web.archive.org/web/20161019020737/http://www.rodneydickman.com/n36.html I did find that.

The post from the fiero board...well...that's a causality of Photobucket.

He must have pulled that page as it was a reference to a static HTML page. If he moved the page (deleted it or otherwise) the link posted above will "die". It does appear that he is selling his business and the domain name.

the first link isn't working on my end. Do links expire if not continually paid for? If so, who does one "pay" for rights to a link? I don't know how that works.

You have to fabricate it yourself, shouldnt be too hard yours doesnt sound that bad. If only a small section is rusted i would just fix that one spot and not replace the entire panel. If you replace the entire rocker and sill assembly you have to do measurements to make sure it isnt sagging when you put it back together because correcting the unibody sag is a whole can of worms and it can be a bitch to get the unibody alignment perfect. If you dont trust yourself to get the car straight then take it to a frame shop have them weld up the structure and then you can do the body work yourself

So i kind of take all of that back. 92-95 regals with the 3800 don’t seem to have them. I just found a bunch of pictures of 91s with the 3800 that have them! If they are designed to help promote crumpling in a collision, the only thing I can think of is that there is more clearance somewhere in the engine bay with the 3800 series 1 that they aren’t required.

I would expect that too, im gonna look over the scan again, but if I recall it had no such condition, it was just pulling timing, but I gotta look again at the scan and see if I missed something the first time and good call on the pickup thing, may drop the tank at some point if the problem is consistently when the tank gets to that level

Wow, this is news to me! Interesting and thank you for explaining. I just assumed no matter what engine option, all 88-96/97 W's had them as standard.