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  1. Site Related

    1. W-body.com Announcements and News

      Updates and information regarding the W-body.com website.

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    2. New Member Introductions

      Welcome to our community! Introduce yourself to everyone here.

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  2. General W-Body Discussion

    1. FAQs and Technical Information

      'How-To' articles and basic information for those who are new to the W-Body platform.

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    2. General

      General W-Body Discussion

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    3. Powertrain

      Engine and Transmission Maintenance, Repair, and Performance

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    4. PCM Tuning

      Looking for tuning advice or need help reading a scan? Need help getting your tuning software up and running? This is the place for you.

      140
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    5. Brakes/Suspension/Steering/Wheels/Tires

      This is the place to talk about brakes, suspension, lowering, wheels, tires, basically everything that affects your car's ride and handling.

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    6. Car Audio

      Need help putting a system into your W-body? Talk about it here!

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    7. Appearance/Car Care

      Body work, paint care, interior/exterior cleaning, detailing tips and tricks.

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  3. Specialty Forums

    1. Turbo Grand Prix

      This forum is for enthusiasts of the rare 1989-90 Pontiac Grand Prix Turbo.

      27.2k
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    2. Cutlass Supreme Convertible

      A forum for information and discussion about the Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Convertible

      11k
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  • Posts

    • ReiSabre
      Charging system stuck st 13.4v

      By ReiSabre · Posted

      This may be dumb questioning, but I have an 08 grand prix gxp, ran fine and let it sit for a month with some on and off driving in between. At some point, charging system stopped working, and charging doesnt go above 13.4-13.5v, and won't give more when going lower from accessories or cold starts. I do have a b1516 code and current sensor has correct sensor replaced, only other things found are the ground wire to bcm from battery shows about 3-4v when reading, and not sure what the current sensor pins should read. It does charge higher and adjust if i clear the b1516 code until it comes back as well, and drops back to 13.4v. I'm still very much novice, so some insight and help would be great.
    • GnatGoSplat
      OIL LEAK - 1994 Cutlass LQ1

      By GnatGoSplat · Posted

      I've never used that product, but I'm generally not a fan of stop leak products.  I've used them in the distant past.  In my experience, they tend to cause more problems down the road.
    • bluecalais79
      OIL LEAK - 1994 Cutlass LQ1

      By bluecalais79 · Posted

      Thanks I will check that out. I did buy some of Bar Seal's best stuff and already it seems to be working. I'll know more about that in a few days. There was coolant on top of the hold down bolt (for the oil pump drive) and moving on down that way. But, I cleaned it all off before putting in the bar seal, followed the instructions and then drove the car a bit. No leaks last night and no leaks this morning, it's all dried out. Hopefully this will be the end of that, but I will keep my eye on that fitting.
    • ceaspaece
      1997 to 1994 Grand Prix subframe and suspension conversion

      By ceaspaece · Posted

      Picked up a 1994 Pontiac Grand Prix coupe a few months back for a good price. Im in the process of putting a new motor in it due to an oil pump failure. But I've been thinking about suspension and steering system modifications. There isn't anything available for the 1994 but there's a ton of support for 1997+. Due to differences with the control arms I figured that easiest way to retrofit would be to swap a subframe from a newer Grand Prix into my '94 but I'm not sure if that's possible. From looking up photos online The general shape and mounting position seems to be the same. I was just wondering if anyone's ever done this swap before to update the suspension and steering because I'm sure anything's better than the cartridge strip design in terms of performance. 
    • GnatGoSplat
      Sunroof help again.

      By GnatGoSplat · Posted

      It should retract.  Almost seems like it could be getting bound on something as you said it drops slightly below the close point. You can check for it getting mechanically bound by removing the fuse and connecting a multimeter in Amps mode in place of the fuse.  When it stops moving, see if it's drawing any current.  If it is, the motor wants to move it, but it's getting mechanically bound.  If no current when it stops, then a switch or relay is electrically preventing it from moving further.
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