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You didn't really give us much to work with here. The value of Turbo GPs is so subjective at the moment, At least from what I've seen over the last few years is color combinations don't matter nearly as much as overall condition. 

The Usual Three: Verify fuel pressure at prime, at idle, and under load. Most fuel pressure gauge assemblies have a push-button pressure release connected to crappy vinyl tubing. Route the tubing so it empties into a drain pan, then push the button while the engine is running. This simulates higher fuel demand if you can't check fuel pressure on the highway. Fuel pressure should remain steady even with fuel flowing down the pressure-relief tubing. TBI systems don't hold pressure when the pump stops running, but the other fuel injection styles should. How old is the fuel filter? Have you ever dumped a bottle of Chevron Techron Complete Fuel System Cleaner into the gas tank? (Recommended at every oil change.) How old are the usual “tune-up” parts and procedures? Inspect/replace plug wires, spark plugs. Use quality parts sourced from an authorized seller (NO COUNTERFEIT PARTS FROM AMAZON, EBAY, OR OTHER SKETCHY SELLERS!) Be sure the ignition coils will reliably fire a spark-tester calibrated for HEI when the coil is fully warm, and misted with water from a squirt-bottle. Cranking compression test of all cylinders while the spark plugs are removed. Verify EGR, PCV, EVAP, and Heated Air Intake (if used) systems for proper operation. Verify proper electronic spark advance. Replace old O2 sensors unless you can PROVE that they're working properly—old O2 sensors get lazy, they don't provide accurate data, but they do provide “data” that fools people into thinking they're “working”. Connect a scan tool (NOT a crappy “code reader”) and look for “codes”. More important, look at the data stream to verify EVERY sensor and computer output. Verify fuel trims during the time that the vehicle is not running properly. “Codes” have official diagnostic procedures that will be found in the service manual set for your vehicle.  1995 "OBD 1.5" is NOT a problem for any REAL scan tool.

My car has been sitting quit awhile now and uncertain if I'm going to get to it. So looking into my options. I guess ideally I like the turbos but open to a GTP. I really like grey leather and I know it's impossible to find. Just wondering if I think I will take the time to swap it out to the one I replace it with?

Yeah that is weird. However on mine it isn't the odor of raw gasoline. Its similar to how it smells with a rich mixture but I would figure you wouldn't be able to smell that after the car has been shut off. Somebody suggested I could have plugged catalytic converter. I know I've bottomed out a few dozen times (bad suspension) so maybe that's the problem?? Idk I just wish I could hook a scanner up and it would tell me but OBD 1.5 sucks

I have a similar phenomenon with my '95 CS Convertible, but raw gas odor mainly manifests when I first fill the tank, and is usually gone by the time I've driven 20-30 miles. Fuel economy, as near as I can estimate, averages around 18mpg, but the engine runs smooth as silk, no stumbling at all. Also, filling the tank can be tricky, as it doesn't always automatically shut off the pump. When it fails to shut off, gas will eventually spill out onto the ground from under the passenger side, opposite of where the filler is. It does not overflow from the filler neck itself. My (admittedly imperfect) solution is to put 10 gallons in when the gauge falls just below 1/4 tank. I'll put up to 12 gallons in, if the needle is down in the red one, but I never try to top it off.