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My car is currently at the mechanic after the technician repaired my main engine harness, I guess when I put my engine back together I smashed the harness behind the AC compressor bracket. Mechanic ended up bypassing To a known good 5 Volt reference after he got the same numbers that I got when I back probed my MAP, IAC and TPS. He then informed me that I had board damage on my ECM and that a 12 Volt being fed to my ECM couldn't have been good. I ended up purchasing a spare ECM. I'm preparing to head there and connect TunerPro RT V6 to my 1990 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme 3.1L LH0 V6, 4T60 automatic, using a GM 12-pin FTDI ALDL cable. The vehicle originally had a 16198260 ECM, and I purchased a replacement 1227727 ECM. The replacement arrived with an ARZW MEM-CAL. I'm still confirming whether my original MEM-CAL was transferred. My engine has the three-solenoid digital EGR valve. I currently have A109.adx loaded, converted from A109.ads, and corrected the Transmit Stream Reply body size from 66 to 67. I'd appreciate clarification on four questions: Is A109 the correct 8192-baud ALDL data-stream definition for the 1990 W-body LH0 with digital EGR, or should I be using the $88 acquisition definition? Has anyone successfully used A109 with the 1990 W-body 1227727 ECM and original $88-family calibration? Are there any additional ADS-to-ADX conversion settings I need to verify in TunerPro RT V6? What's the best way to confirm that the ECM is transmitting valid packets, rather than merely establishing serial communication and displaying incorrectly decoded parameters? The engine has exhibited incorrect sensor-reference voltage, rich running, injector-control problems and unreliable starting. The mechanic has repaired damaged wiring, and I'm preparing to collect a fresh KOEO/cranking XDL recording. I'm trying to verify the acquisition setup before interpreting the live readings or considering additional ECM replacement.

Those little ball studs seem to vanish from the catalog entirely. A used bracket from a matching 4T65E might be the only non-custom route, otherwise it turns into one tiny missing piece holding up the whole car.

I highly recommend those covers by Dash Designs. They kill the glare but buy a black one. Also, use some thin strips cut to one inch or so all the way on either side of the dash up by the windshield to hold it down. No need to use velcro anywhere elso, the thing stays put that way. 

How do those dash covers look? I thought about getting one for mine to hide some cracks around the vent. Pulling one out was pretty straight forward once you see how the dash clips, I can see having a helper to put it back in though.   

Thanks for the note. As an update, those speakers in the dash are working. I have one of those dash designs dashboard covers that as it turns out was all but eliminating the sound coming out of those 2 speakers. So, looks like I get to fight that battle another day..............😃