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  1. Site Related

    1. W-body.com Announcements and News

      Updates and information regarding the W-body.com website.

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    2. New Member Introductions

      Welcome to our community! Introduce yourself to everyone here.

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  2. General W-Body Discussion

    1. FAQs and Technical Information

      'How-To' articles and basic information for those who are new to the W-Body platform.

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    2. General

      General W-Body Discussion

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    3. Powertrain

      Engine and Transmission Maintenance, Repair, and Performance

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    4. PCM Tuning

      Looking for tuning advice or need help reading a scan? Need help getting your tuning software up and running? This is the place for you.

      140
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    5. Brakes/Suspension/Steering/Wheels/Tires

      This is the place to talk about brakes, suspension, lowering, wheels, tires, basically everything that affects your car's ride and handling.

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    6. Car Audio

      Need help putting a system into your W-body? Talk about it here!

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    7. Appearance/Car Care

      Body work, paint care, interior/exterior cleaning, detailing tips and tricks.

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  3. Specialty Forums

    1. Turbo Grand Prix

      This forum is for enthusiasts of the rare 1989-90 Pontiac Grand Prix Turbo.

      27.1k
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    2. Cutlass Supreme Convertible

      A forum for information and discussion about the Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Convertible

      10.9k
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  • Posts

    • GtpKo
      Actually its been holding up great. I've got over 20k miles on the swap now over 2 years. Nothing major, a couple ripped cv boots which may be because they were junkyard sourced. I highly recommend adding a HTOB spacer. ZZP sells them for around $50. Sits behind the HTOB and moves it closer to the clutch by 1/4" for earlier engagement and longer life. Aside from engineering the trans mount, the hardest part is getting the clutch pedal mounted and situated. The pedal arm needs to be cut & welded into proper position as well.  As far as the mount, the low-profile mount I fabbed up works great. Only modification I made was adding rubber bushings under the nuts at the bottom to further insulate the mount from the frame. On an aluminum subframe, it might have to be done a bit different. Might be able to drill two holes and bolt it in the same way, but I haven't been hands-on with an 04+ subframe so I can't say for sure. I'm not a fan of the modified 4T65E bracket method that requires tubular control arms as the mount sits outside the frame. An extra $650 that could be spent elsewhere. There really are half a dozen ways you could fab up a mount but I can say for sure the one I made does the job. 3/16 steel plate holds up well so far.   I have also just finished taking the time to document the changes to the tune that are highly recommended for a manual swap:   Idle speeds in-gear changed to match P/N as its going to be wired to be in D at all times now. ( I actually added a toggle switch to change between forcing it in D or P, since P is needed for a crank relearn procedure if you need it)   DTC codes changed   And finally zeroing out all the auto trans stuff:
    • Psych0matt
    • Psych0matt
      Welcome (back)! somehow I never got out for long, but the last few years I haven't posted as much, been trying to check in more often
    • Psych0matt
      Also just now checking some of the forgotten areas of the forum, but Welcome!
    • Psych0matt
      I know I;m a bit late but do you have a sound clip? I'm happy with my setup but it still doesn't sound great, I've never heard an LQ1 sound great haha
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