Jump to content
  1. Site Related

    1. W-body.com Announcements and News

      Updates and information regarding the W-body.com website.

      530
      posts
    2. New Member Introductions

      Welcome to our community! Introduce yourself to everyone here.

      9.1k
      posts
  2. General W-Body Discussion

    1. FAQs and Technical Information

      'How-To' articles and basic information for those who are new to the W-Body platform.

      1.6k
      posts
    2. General

      General W-Body Discussion

      192.1k
      posts
    3. Powertrain

      Engine and Transmission Maintenance, Repair, and Performance

      129.4k
      posts
    4. PCM Tuning

      Looking for tuning advice or need help reading a scan? Need help getting your tuning software up and running? This is the place for you.

      140
      posts
    5. Brakes/Suspension/Steering/Wheels/Tires

      This is the place to talk about brakes, suspension, lowering, wheels, tires, basically everything that affects your car's ride and handling.

      50.6k
      posts
    6. Car Audio

      Need help putting a system into your W-body? Talk about it here!

      18.8k
      posts
    7. Appearance/Car Care

      Body work, paint care, interior/exterior cleaning, detailing tips and tricks.

      28.8k
      posts
  3. Specialty Forums

    1. Turbo Grand Prix

      This forum is for enthusiasts of the rare 1989-90 Pontiac Grand Prix Turbo.

      27.2k
      posts
    2. Cutlass Supreme Convertible

      A forum for information and discussion about the Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Convertible

      11k
      posts
  • Member Statistics

    11,652
    Total Members
    1,726
    Most Online
    dw89xj
    Newest Member
    dw89xj
    Joined
  • Posts

    • Black92GS
      Gotta be careful with testing that one. I don’t believe you can do a simple continuity test like that and get a definitive result. Depending on how the switching is handled in the PCM, it’s likely you won’t get a definitive continuity reading between it and ground. It’s such a low current circuit that the 11 ohms you saw may very well be a good control ground.  I’ve heard that you need to use a very low current test light for definitive results when testing those types of circuits.   
    • crazyd
      You are correct, the correct pin to test clutch engagement is #5, not #3.  KOEO with AC on I have battery voltage at pins 1 and 3 (test A).  Clutch engages with battery voltage to pin 5 (test B).  Pin 2 is a mystery.  I do not have ground continuity and the meter reads 11 ohms.  I don't think it is receiving the control ground from the ECM.
    • Black92GS
      Looking at the AC relay, pins 85 and 86 are the control side. One should have power with the key on, and the other will receive a ground from the PCM when the AC compressor is being commanded on. Pin 30 is the load side power in and pin 87 is the load side power out from the relay. If you have both powers to the relay and the control ground when the AC is being commanded on, but no power out on Pin 87....you have a bad relay. If you have power on Pin 87 when the AC is being commanded on, then you have a broken wire going to the compressor or a bad compressor clutch.  I also just noticed that Test B above is wrong.  You can't expect to have voltage on Pin 3 in test A, and be expected to supply voltage to Pin 3 in test B to engage the compressor.    
    • crazyd
      3.4s do have the same pressure switch in the power steering rack. What I have tested is that when it won't run the compressor, the #5 wire in the 87 relay socket has 0 volts, test B.  If I run battery voltage directly to the compressor connector I'm confident it would engage the clutch.
    • 55trucker
      Well, from where I stand I would probably look for a 3400 LA1 shortblock, plunk the T-code heads & intake down onto it, & install a custom 3400 T-code engine into the car. I personally wouldn't waste my money on just a T code 3.1
×
×
  • Create New...