Service: Engine

Subject Rotating the engine (2.8L or 3.1L Gen II V6)
Author Fred Eyerman
Applies to: 1988-1993 W-body with 2.8L or 3.1L Gen II V6 (VIN W and T)

I have a tip when doing a tune-up on your vehicle. When attempting to reach the spark plugs in the rear of the engine, remove the ends of the two engine mounts that are nearest the engine of the vehicle. Swing these upward. If you notice, there should be a bolt hole on the bottom of one of these. Use a crow-bar to pry the engine forward (use the motor mount as a lever point), then place one of the engine mount bolts through this hole and the existing mount bracket. Bolt this for safety. You should easily gain access to the rear of the engine now (this is also great if you have to change your alternator or PCV valve). When you are finished, reverse this process and make sure to bolt your engine back down.

Service Tip: Tilting the motor
It is necessary to tilt the 2.8L or 3.1L Gen II motor to access the back 3 spark plugs. Here is an easier way to tilt the motor if you have a driveway with a slight incline (preferably not very steep):
  1. Park the car on the inclined driveway with the front of the car facing down. Make sure the transmission is in Park.
  2. Do not apply the parking brake, but to be on the safe side, you may want to place blocks in front of the front wheels.
  3. If your car has the coolant reservoir in front of the motor, you will have to remove the two bolts (10mm) that hold it on. Otherwise, skip this step.
  4. Remove the nuts (15mm) and bolts (13mm) closest to the motor from the front motor mounts located on the top/front of the engine. These motor mounts are commonly referred to as "dog bones" because they resemble dog bones. You may have to push backwards on the motor to give the bolts enough slack to pull out easily.
  5. While pushing back on the motor to keep it from tilting forward, lift the "dog bone" motor mounts up and out of the way. You may have to loosen their front bolts a little if they are too tight.
  6. Move the coolant reservoir aside and out of the way if necessary.
  7. Let go of motor and gravity should allow the motor to tilt forwards a little. How much depends on the steepness of the incline. Now lower the dog bone motor mount on your right while pulling the motor towards you until the holes on the motor match up to the eyelet on the dog bone.
  8. When the holes match up, slide one of the bolts in it to hold the motor in the tilted position. You are now ready to change the rear spark plugs or wires.
  9. When you are done, simply reverse the process.

Using the gravity of an incline greatly decreases the effort required to tilt the motor forward and backwards. I tried tilting the motor on a flat surface once (in the garage) and it was much too heavy for me to tilt. The tilting on an incline method requires no tools other than metric wrenches.


Subject Fuel Injectors
Author Lisa Gail Wheatland
Applies to: 1988-1993 W-body with 2.8L or 3.1L Gen II V6 (VIN W and T)

For people with 2.8 and 3.1 v-6 engines watch out for the fuel system. For some reason, owners in the midwest have had many problems with the fuel injectors. The best conclusion is not to use ethanol gasoline. Ethanol is grittier and if your state's gas regulations are lax, there may be more than a ten percent blend in the gas you purchase. Be aware!! This guts the insulation of the electrical part of an injector. Thus the injector may short out causing poor driveability, and eventually, the engine will not run. If your engine stumbles, won't idle, or the car shifts poorly or bucks, it may be as simple as a faulty injector. They aren't cheap, though. In 1994, they were $115/ injector. Cars built after 1993 are not as prone to this problem.

Ed Note: Always avoid any fuel with ethanol content. That stuff's bad news! Shop around, injectors can be found for <$50/each. I know, I had to replace one.


Subject Serpentine Accessory Belt Replacement
Author John E. Dawson
Applies to: 1988-1993 W-body with 2.8L or 3.1L Gen II V6 (VIN W and T)

I changed my first serpentine accessory belt at 50K miles and keep the old one in the trunk as a spare. As inexpensive as these things are, you might as well change it way before it fails. Remember, it is your only belt, and if it breaks, you won't go very far. The belt is easy to replace by using a 3/8 in drive pull bar or ratchet. Insert it into the hole in the idler pulley (just below the power steering pump on my '93 Cutlass. Ed Note: It's on the same location on all 1988-1993 W-body cars with VIN W and T motors) Pull on your ratchet/pull bar towards the firewall. This will move the idler pulley out of the way and the belt will slide right off. Installation is reverse of removal. Hint: Make a note of the routing of your belt before your remove it.